The apartment building at 2 Fifth Avenue has been home to several notable LGBT figures who have made impacts in the fields of activism, health, theater, and literature. One resident, Larry Kramer, (b. 1935) helped catalyze the response to the AIDS epidemic as co-founder of Gay Men’s Health Crisis (GMHC) and the AIDS Coalition to Unleash Power (ACT UP). His literary achievements as playwright include The Normal Heart (1985) and its sequel The Destiny of Me (1992). He is also well known for his controversial book Faggots (1978) and his screenplay of Women in Love (1969). Edith “Edie” Windsor & Dr. Thea Clara Spyer also lived here. Edith “Edie” Windsor was a LGBT rights activist and her wife Thea Spyer moved into their apartment in the mid-1970s. Windsor, who resided here at the time of her death in 2017, was the lead plaintiff in the Supreme Court of the United States case, which overturned Section 3 of the Defense of Marriage Act.

Warren Weaver Hall, ca. 1975. Upon its completion in 1965, the New York Times described New York University’s Warren Weaver Hall as “the largest mathematics and teaching center in the world.” Designed by the firm Warner, Burns, Toan and Lunde; Weaver Hall replaced “light manufacturing buildings” on Mercer, West 3rd and 4th Streets, and the former 15th Precinct police station at No. 251 Mercer.

640 Broadway ca. 1949 While it’s certainly the most famous Empire State Building, the skyscraping structure on the corner of 34th Street and 5th Avenue was not actually the first “Empire State Building.” That title belonged to a somewhat more terrestrial, but still extant, building at the corner of Bleecker Street and Broadway. In the mid-late 19th century, a six-story brick and stone structure sat on a 25′ x 300′ footprint at 640 Broadway between Bleecker and Crosby Streets. The ground floor was home to the Empire State Bank, with manufacturers located in the lofts above. In November 1895, a fire later determined to be arson, burned the building to the ground. The fire ended the Empire State Bank, which applied to the Supreme Court for dissolution on February 18, 1896. The owner immediately moved to rebuild. He hired architects De Lemos and Cordes, who that same year designed the Siegel-Cooper Building (now part of the Ladies’ Mile Historic District), and would go on to design Macy’s Herald Square. Opening in 1897, the new building at 640 Broadway helped transform this neighborhood (designated the NoHo Historic District in 1999). At the time, the area was transitioning from 5-6 story loft buildings to taller buildings, such as the Bayard Condict Building located directly across the street from 640 Broadway at 65 Bleecker Street. In honor of his former tenant, owner B. Lichtenstein named 640 Broadway the Empire State Building. This was more than 30 years prior to the development of its more famous namesake. When the “original” Empire State Building opened it housed dozens of manufacturing companies employing hundreds of young women. Fires broke out in the building in 1904, 1909, 1919, and 1921, but miraculously no one was killed. Dramatic rescue stories were reported in the Sun and Times. With the advent of its taller and more famous cousin uptown, it became less and less common to refer to 640 Broadway as “The Empire State Building.” On top of that, during the 1940s and 50s, the neighborhood in which 640 Broadway was located went into a precipitous decline. Many of the once grand hotels in the area became flophouses and shooting galleries; some even collapsed. By the 1960s, the building had taken on an entirely different character. In 1965 the offices of the protest group May 2nd Movement were located in the building. This group provided legal counseling to those seeking to avoid the Vietnam War draft. In 1971 the building housed the offices of the Law Commune, who successfully defended the Black Panthers against 156 counts of bombing, arson, attempted murder, and other crimes. They also defended Abbie Hoffman following his September 5, 1973 arrest for selling $36,000 worth of cocaine with a street value of $500,000. When arrested, he gave his address as “640 Broadway in Greenwich Village”. Hoffman skipped bail and underwent plastic surgery. After six years in hiding, sometimes dressing as an Orthodox Jew, Hoffman surrendered and was sentenced to three years, of which he served one year.

9 East 7th Street; 53-61 Cooper Square Building Date : 1867 Original Use : Commercial Original Owner : Metropolitan Savings Bank Original Architect : Carl Pfeiffer Description & Building Alterations This New York City Landmark building, constructed in 1867 and designated a landmark in 1969, is an impressive marble work of the Italianate and French Second Empire style. It remains a significant presence on the corner of Third Avenue and East Seventh Street. Originally constructed for the Metropolitan Savings Bank by architect Carl Pfeiffer, the structure is considered one of the earliest examples of fireproof construction in the city, prompting the Superintendent of Buildings to remark at the time of its construction that “it is one of the handsomest and most thoroughly constructed buildings in the city, and a perfect model in its precaution against fire.” The building’s four-and-a-half story facade is constructed entirely of elaborately articulated marble, with decorative band courses at each floor, extensive rustication and quoinwork, ornamental entablatures and braces, and ceremonial Corinthian columns and pediments framing the entry. The building’s final floor is in a distinctive and delicately-articulated Mansard roof supported by a decorative marble cornice, creating a sophisticated Second Empire profile on the streetscape. In 1937, the building was sold to the First Ukrainian Assembly of God and has seen continuous ecclesiastical use since, primarily by the First Ukrainian Evangelical

Men and boys outside the entrance to 30 Lafayette Place (now No. 417 Lafayette Street), measuring cracks in the stoop of No. 28, August 8, 1901. Between 1897 and 1904, the city undertook twin projects connecting Lafayette Place to Elm Street, while building the IRT East Side Line (which later became the Lexington Avenue Line) by the cut and cover method. The man at right holds a measuring tape to the protruding stoop of No. 28 Lafayette Place, then a residential dwelling with a lower-floor storefront. The stoop and Greek Revival ornamentation were removed in 1911, during a street-widening project. Other such "encroachments" were removed along the block.

"Brown Building, originally the Asch Building. Site of the Triangle Shirtwaist Company fire, 1975." The Asch Building was built in 1900–01 by architect John Woolley, who designed it in the neo-Renaissance style. Because it was known for "fire-proof" rooms it was attractive to garment factories who were susceptible to fires. The Triangle Shirtwaist factory moved into the top three floors a year after the building was completed. It was on these top three floors (8th, 9th, and 10th) that the Triangle Fire occurred in March of 1911. Despite the fire hoses not being able to reach the floors that were on fire, and the massive loss of life, the building survived intact. In 1916 New York University began to use the 8th floor for a library and classrooms. In 1929 the building was purchased by real estate developer and philanthropist Frederick Brown, donated to the university and renamed the Brown Building. Today the top floors are occupied by science classrooms and labs. There are a number of plaques at the base of the building that memorialize the fire and a larger memorial is currently being planned for the facade of the building.

Provincetown Playhouse ca. 1992 On November 22, 1918, the Provincetown Playhouse staged their first performance in their Village location. Founded in 1915 in Massachusetts, the Provincetown Players were a group of actors and theater writers who moved their company down to the Village in 1916, eventually settling in their permanent home at 133-139 MacDougal Street.

26 Washington Square North, ca. 1971. Washington Square North was once nearly fully lined with Greek Revival townhouses. Flanking the large mansion of William C. Rhinelander at the west corner of Washington Square North and Fifth Avenue and the slightly earlier Federal house at no. 20, the townhouses spread out in both directions facing what would become a park in 1850. Referred to as "the Row," the homes were constructed in the 1830s under the auspices of the Trustees of Sailors’ Snug Harbor. The homes were to be the residences of wealthy bankers and merchants from a leasehold which supported the retired sailors. This area was considered the perfect location for the upper classes who were looking distance themselves from the crowds and working classes of lower Manhattan. No. 18 was once the home of author Henry James' grandmother, and he immortalized the neighborhood in his 1881 novel Washington Square. According to the LPC designation report this row, with its classic ionic columns and length of wrought-iron railings, "may well be considered the prototype, in this country, of the monumental Greek Revival Rowhouse.” Today, west of Fifth Avenue only nos.19-26 remain of the early 19th century constructions. They are owned by New York University.

108 Waverly Place ca. 1933 108 Waverly Place is as unusual as its residents. The building is one of a few that remain of nine rowhouses built around 1826, but extensively altered over the years. The facade of No. 108, with its cut masonry and crenelated cornices simulating a castle, dates to 1906, and was designed by Charles C. Haight. The arched window on the ground floor is a 1927 alteration that replaced a former garage entrance. From the Greenwich Village Historic District Designation Report of 1969: This group (108-114 Waverly Place), in its present appearance, is unique to Greenwich Village. These four houses are all that remain of a row of nine built in 1826 for Thomas R. Mercein. He was president of the New York Equitable Fire Insurance Company, and had also served as City comptroller. In No. 108, we see a love for the picturesque as this new front is a granite-faced, rough ashlar facade with crenelated cornice, simulating a small castle. It was designed in 1906 by Charles C. Haight for Miss Grace Wilkes. At that time the stable and coachman’s apartment were combined, and the roof over the attic floor was raised, and it now has a steeply sloping studio window. The present two-centered arched window at ground floor that replaces the former garage entrance is a further alteration in 1927 when the entire building was converted into a dwelling. Additionally, the building has a marker affixed to it that reads, “Prior Home of The Institute of The Jazz Studies founded by Marshall W. Stearns 1952.” Marshall W. Stearns played drums in his youth and studied medieval English at Yale University, obtaining a Ph.D. He taught English at a number of colleges, and during this time frequently wrote about jazz music for magazines. He received a Guggenheim Fellowship in 1950 and used the proceeds to finish his seminal 1956 work The Story of Jazz, a popular introduction to jazz. He taught jazz at New York University and the New School, and in 1952 he founded the Institute of Jazz Studies at 108 Waverly Place, which he also directed.

The NoHo Historic District was designated by the New York City Landmarks Preservation Commission (LPC) on June 29, 1999, with the NoHo East Historic District designated in 2003 and expansions to the original district boundaries approved in 2008. This virtual walking tour features 25 buildings within the approximately 130-building original NoHo Historic District, in celebration of its 25th anniversary. The highlighted buildings represent the range of construction periods and array of building types, styles, and uses that occur throughout the district. We encourage you to explore this fascinating stretch of Manhattan virtually, or to use this tour as a jumping-off point as you take your own walk through the historic district! The three-part tour is organized by phases of development, based upon the same categories found within the LPC NoHo Designation Report. Part III includes buildings constructed from the 1890s to 1910s: The Booming Nineties a) 611-621 Broadway, The Cable Building b) 65-69 Bleecker Street, The Bayard-Condict Building c) 696-702 Broadway d) 34-36 Cooper Square, "Village Voice" Post-Consolidation Growth e) 756-770 Broadway, Wanamaker's Department Store Annex f) 684 Broadway (aka 2 Great Jones Street) g) 740-744 Broadway (aka 2 Astor Place) \-- To return to Part II of the tour, click here. To revert back to Part I of the tour, click here.

Church of the Ascension, ca. 1979. Built by architect Richard Upjohn between 1840-41 in the Gothic Revival style, the Church of the Ascension is compared in the registers listing to Trinity Church, also built by Upjohn between 1839-1846. The listing also details a remodeling of the interior from 1885-1889, undertaken by Stanford White of McKim, Mead, & White. This remodeling lightened the space considerably, removing galleries on the north and south and adding stained-glass windows and the mural “the Ascension of Our Lord” by artist John La Farge. The sculptured angels over the main altar are the work of Louis St. Gaudens and the two angels in the mosaic were done by D. Maitland Armstrong.

Greenwich Village has been the home of many women, whose actions have changed the fabric of New York and America.

Washington Square Park ca. 1935 Washington Square, at the base of Fifth Avenue, emerged in the Victorian era as one of New York City's most fashionable neighborhoods. Projecting dignified calm and cosmopolitan charm, the square drew favorable comparisons to similar patrician precincts in nineteenth-century London and Paris. To Henry James, born on nearby Washington Place, Washington Square (where his grandmother lived) had "a riper, richer, more honorable look than any of the ramifications of the great longitudinal thoroughfare- the look of having something of a social history." Originally a marshland drained for use as a potter's field and public gallows in the later eighteenth century, Washington Square underwent its upscale metamorphosis in the mid-1820s, when the area was converted into a military parade ground and subsequently reconfigured as an eight-acre public park, complete with fountain and intersecting pedestrian paths. In 1837 New York University established its headquarters on the square's east border. Affluent downtowners soon gravitated to this newly developed section of Greenwich Village, moving into the stately Federal-style townhouses constructed at the park's perimeter. By the century's end, a monumental arch designed by Stanford White and built from Tuckahoe marble dominated the Northern edge of Washington Square. Largely financed by the well-heeled homeowners who lived on the square, this imposing structure replaced a temporary portal erected in 1889 to commemorate the centennial of George Washington's inauguration as the nations first president. By the 1890s, various economic and demographic changes had conspired to trigger the flight of upper-class families from Greenwich Village; much of the district's housing stock had grown dilapidated, real estate values and per capita income began to plummet, local church congregations started to migrate north, and slum tenements and drab factories were encroaching the side streets running east and south of Washington Square.

Schermerhorn Building ca. 1979 Built in 1888, the Schermerhorn Building's six stories were impressively tall for the time and its massing is, as the designation report states, “unusually imposing.” And although six-story buildings are a dime a dozen today, there is indeed something still very impressive and commanding about the Schermerhorn Building. The dark brown brick piers and ornamental sandstone corners combine to create a real heft at the ground level, and all the trappings of its Romanesque Revival style convey a solidness and strength. But it is also a brilliantly balanced building – the very solid and weighty ground level lifts upward toward arched windows that terminate high above Lafayette on the fourth floor, where its dark brown brick becomes a lighter, tan color. And all over the building, whimsical and playful ornamentation save the building from feeling too serious or foreboding. And it’s no wonder that the building is designed so expertly – its architect, Henry Janeway Hardenbergh, also designed The Dakota Apartments and the Plaza Hotel, two other revered New York City landmarks.

29 Washington Square West ca. 1930s During her time as First Lady, from 1933 to 1945, Eleanor Roosevelt changed the role from the passive hostess to active political leader and became an outspoken politician in her own right. She held press conferences on important issues such as women's rights and children's causes and led marches and protests. After the death of President Franklin Roosevelt in 1945, she resided here at 29 Washington Square West until 1949. She later became a U.S. delegate to the United Nations, chair of the UN Commission on Human Rights, and is widely regarded as one of the most renowned civil rights activists of the 20th Century.

Judson Memorial Church, 2000. Adoniram Judson was the first American Protestant foreign missionary. In 1888 his son, distinguished preacher and church leader Edward Judson, began the process to create a church in memorial to his father. Supported by a number of wealthy Northern Baptists, including John D. Rockefeller, Judson spared no expense in his plans for the church. He hired Standford White as architect, John LaFarge for the stained glass, and sculptor Augustus St. Gaudens. The resulting building, an eclectic Lombardo-Romanesque style church, was completed in 1893. The grand campanile, or bell tower, was completed in 1896. The church, nearly from its inception, has been engaged in social health and justice activities. In 1920 the Judson Health Center was established as a community healthcare facility. They opened the first drug-treatment clinic in Greenwich Village (1960-1962). Under the long leadership of pastor Howard Moody (1956-1990), the church became involved in arts, social justice, and anti-war movements. Art projects created include the Judson Dance Theatre and Art Gallery. They operated an abortion counseling and referral service before Roe v. Wade made abortion legal and a support group for those with HIV-AIDS and their caregivers in the 1980s, while many churches ignored the AIDS crisis. They were actively involved in local and national movements for civil rights, peace, women’s rights, and gay rights. Today the church remained active in the arts and is a leader of the leading role in the New Sanctuary Movement for immigrant rights.

Bertolotti's Restaurant, May 19, 1939. Though perhaps not apparent from this 1939 photograph, the building here at 85 West 3rd Street was constructed in the 1830s. In 1844 the writer Edgar Allan Poe moved into the building, then 85 Amity Street. Here he worked on “The Raven" and ''The Cask of Amontillado.'' He and his wife vacated the home in 1846 for a small cottage in the Bronx. Later tenants included actress Lillian Russell and, for nearly 70 years, an Italian restaurant called Bertolotti's. The small building survived most of the 20th century with NYU growing around it. In 2000 the school announced plans to demolish the building for an expanded law library and was met with vocal push back by preservationists, community members and scholars. Eventually NYU agreed to preserve the facade of the building. During construction of the new Furman Hall, the facade is moved down the block and reconstructed within the facade of the new building. Though it supposedly looks as it would have in 1845, preservationists have maintained that the changes of location and surroundings (it is no longer free-standing) and the new brick facade (the old bricks were not reused as planned) create something akin to a movie set, not a historic structure.

"Founded in 1890, Judson Church had served as a bridge between the upper classes on 5th Avenue and the impoverished Italian neighborhood below Washington Square. As many Italian families eventually moved to the suburbs, the congregation declined to fewer than 25 people by the 1950s. The church sought social relevance and hired ministers who were also artists to connect with the growing creative and intellectual communities in the Village. The idea was to open the sanctuary to bear witness rather than proselytize, and to embrace the 'free church' belief that the space of worship is not holy and need not be confined to traditional religious practices. The exhibition acknowledges Associate Minister Bud Scott‘s role in founding the Judson Gallery and Associate Minister Al Carmines’ vision for the Poets’ Theater. The theater was founded on two conditions: there would be no censorship and no requirement to produce religious dramas. However, the work of Reverend Howard Moody was also critical since he integrated activism into the church’s liturgy and mission and took up many of the social issues that the exhibition referenced, such as opening one of the first drug treatment facilities in the Village and an abortion referral service." For more on Judson Memorial Church, check out this article by Joanna Steinberg in Gotham: A Blog for Scholars of New York City History.

Bleecker Street Cinema, ca. 1977. Bleecker Street Cinema began its tenure at 144 Bleecker Street in 1962. Filmmaker and social activist Lionel Rogosin founded the space and opened the 200-seat theatre to present his 1959 film Come Back, Africa. A spot for art house, avant-garde, and foreign films the cinema closed in 1990. For less than a year the venue reopened and featured gay adult films, before a brief return to art films, and eventual closure in 1991. The theatre was an influential cultural venue for the independent film scene in New York. It was also a location for a number of more commercial movies including Desperately Seeking Susan and Woody Allen's Crimes and Misdemeanors. Today the building has been split again with no. 144 housing a pharmacy and no. 146 a stationary store.

Fifth Avenue Bus at Washington Square South and Thompson Street, October 21, 1936. Founded in 1885 as the Fifth Avenue Transportation Company, the horse-drawn omnibus line was established to hinder the installation of trolley tracks on fashionable Fifth Avenue. It was incorporated as The Fifth Avenue Coach Company in 1896. The Fifth Avenue vehicles went from horse-powered to gas-powered in 1907, and the company soon began manufacturing their own coaches, including those of the double-decker variety. In 1930, the Fifth Avenue Coach Company purchased 100 Yellow Coach “Z-type” double-decker buses. The bus in this image looks to be one of these coaches. The New York Transit Museum also has a 1930 coach in its historic fleet (its oldest bus rolling stock). The coach, affectionately nicknamed "Betsy," is featured during the Museum's annual Bus Fest.

Salmagundi Club, November 24, 1937. The Salmagundi Club was an art club founded in 1871. Initially called New York Sketch Class and later the New York Sketch Club, the organization was a men's only group of artists, students, and friends who met once a week. It was renamed Salmagundi in 1877 and meet at a number of Greenwich Village locations during its first 40 years. In 1917 the club purchased and moved into the1853 Italianate-style townhouse at 47 Fifth Avenue. For the last century it has operated in this building as a center for fine arts, artists and collectors, exhibitions, classes, demonstrations,and auctions.

Grand Central Hotel ca. 1870 On August 3rd in 1973, what was once one of the largest and most elegant hotels in the country collapsed onto Broadway, killing four and injuring many. The eight-story, 400-room Grand Central Hotel opened in 1870 and was built in the Second Empire style by architect Henry Engelbert for carpet manufacturer Elias S. Higgins. Located at 667-77 Broadway (near Bond Street, south of West 3rd Street), it was one of the largest hotels in the United States when it was built and was lavishly furnished. In the late 19th century, the hotel with its restaurants and grand spaces became a hub of New York society. As the 20th century progressed, the hotel’s name was changed to the Broadway Central, and its luster faded. By the 1960s and after changes in ownership, the building came to be used as a welfare hotel. Complaints from residents and neighbors about crime, drug use, and prostitution in the building, as well as deteriorating and unhygienic conditions, spurred the State to investigate and penalize the owners. Re-branded as The University Hotel by the early 1970s, the hotel attempted to salvage its image. But by the summer of 1973 bigger problems than image would reveal themselves. Residents reported to the City that cracks had formed throughout the hotel and several structural walls had begun bowing outward. Years of neglect and un-reported interior renovation work had taken its toll on the hundred year old structure. Early on August 3rd, hotel patrons began hearing what they described as “’bongs,’ ‘tings,’ and ‘groans,’ and other noises,” and seeing falling plasterwork throughout the building. By the late afternoon most of the over 300 hotel guests had evacuated, when at about 5:10 P.M. a huge section of the building abruptly collapsed, spilling a huge pile of rubble down on to Broadway. As firemen sifted through the rubble – more than twenty feet high in some places — four bodies were found. The remaining sections of the hotel were demolished and removed. Also lost on the Mercer Street side of the building were six popular off-Broadway theaters that composed the Mercer Arts center. Mercer Arts Center is featured on the HBO show Vinyl. The live theaters on the Mercer Street side were run by Sy and Cynthia Kaback. It was Steina and Woody Vasulka who rented the kitchen of the Center for shows starting on June 15, 1971 before moving to Wooster and Broome streets and finally locating The Kitchen to 512 West 19th Street, where it still is today. Housing for NYU Law School students was eventually built on the site and remains today.

113 Waverly Place, ca. 1950.

14 West 10th Street (second building from the left), May 29, 1933. The Greek Revival house at 14 West 10th Street was constructed sometime in the 1850s. The house, in the fashionable area near Washington Square Park, was home to members of New York's high society in the 19th century. In 1900 Mark Twain lived in the house for a year or so. In the long history of the house at least 22 people died while residing there. (This is not an inconceivable number given the home's age and the fact that for much of history people died at home). In 1937 the single family home was divided into multiple apartments. Starting around that time residents began taking note of strange occurrences and haunting visions. Author Jan Bryant Bartell lived in an apartment there for seven years and wrote about her supernatural experiences there. It has been called the "House of Death." Unfortunately the building also hosted a real life gruesome event in 1987 when a former New York defense attorney beat his illegally adopted daughter to death in the house.

Colonnade Row ca. 1913 These four houses survive from a row of nine Greek Revival marble-fronted residences that, at the time of their completion, were among the grandest dwellings in New York and were occupied by members of New York’s leading families. Erected, and possibly designed, by the developer Seth Greer and named for the Marquis de Lafayette’s estate in France, the row is unified by the use of a Corinthian colonnade that was once crowned by a continuous band of anthemia (now visible only at No. 434). The buildings began to deteriorate in the post-Civil War era as the wealthy moved out of this neighborhood, and the houses were subdivided into apartments and commercial spaces. The row now contains apartments, restaurants, and theaters. From the "Guide to New York City Landmarks", courtesy of the New York City Landmarks Preservation Commission.

Louisa May Alcott Residence ca. 1933 Though she is most associated with the city of Boston, abolitionist and feminist Louisa May Alcott stayed here at her uncle's house at 130-132 MacDougal Street for two years after the publication of her most famous work, Little Women. She was raised by transcendentalist parents Amos Bronson Alcott and Abigail May and grew up around intellectuals of the day such as Ralph Waldo Emerson, Nathaniel Hawthorne, and Henry David Thoreau. When she was young her family served as station masters on the Underground Railroad. She also read and was greatly influenced by the "Declaration of Sentiments", published by the Seneca Falls Convention on women's rights. As an adult, she wrote for the Atlantic Monthly and served as a nurse during the Civil War. It was her letters home-revised and published in the Boston anti-slavery paper Commonwealth and collected as 'Hospital Sketches'-that first brought her critical recognition for her observations and humor. She became even more successful with the publication of Little Women in 1868.

The Mad Hatter Tearoom ca. 1892 The one-story building at left has early LGBT history in its incarnation as the Mad Hatter, which was located in the basement from 1916 to c. 1930. The first tearoom in the Village, the Mad Hatter attracted a bohemian crowd (and a number of upper class “slummers” who came to watch them). Eliza Helen Criswell – who went by “Jimmie,” had short hair, and wore sandals, artsy smocks, and tailored suits and ties for formal events – owned the establishment with her partner Mathilda Spence for a number of years. Beginning in 1945, the ground floor space was the location of the Pony Stable Inn, a lesbian bar. Like other Greenwich Village lesbian bars of the 1940s-1960s, such as the Sea Colony and the Bagatelle, the Pony Stable Inn attracted mostly working-class white women who adhered to strict butch/femme gender roles \[for an explanation on butch/femme, see the entry on the Sea Colony]. Almost all gay bars of the time in New York City were run by the Mafia and frequently raided by the police. A McCarthy-era tactic of infiltrating gay spaces with informants was also common, making women reluctant to talk to those they did not know for fear of police entrapment. As Lee Zevy (who would later co-found Identity House NYC) described of her first visit to the Pony Stable Inn with a few more experienced friends, “Nobody talked to anybody because everybody was deeply, deeply in the closet, even at the bar.” Acclaimed black lesbian feminist, writer, and activist Audre Lorde wrote of the reluctance to speak with anyone at a lesbian bar at the time for fear of coming across a plainclothes policewoman: “There were always rumors of plainclothes women circulating among us, looking for gay girls with fewer than three pieces of female attire. That was enough to get you arrested for transvestism, which was illegal.”

Shoppers and Carriages Outside Wanamakers, 1898. The cast iron building, that became Wanamakers Department Store in 1896, survived for 94 years. Despite the intense blaze that destroyed the interior of the building in 1956, the cast iron facade seen here remained standing and had to be dismantled.

Grove St Press moved here after a brief stay at 80 University Place from 1964-67. Less than half a block down to 53 East 11th Street the move came at a crucial time for the enterprise. In 1967 Grove became a public corporation, vastly expanding its scope and resources. According to “From the Third Eye: The Evergreen Review Film Reader”, in January of that year, the Press also announced the acquisition of the prestigious Cinema 16 Film Library, consisting of two hundred shorts and experimental works, including films by Stan Brakhage, Kenneth Anger, Michelangelo Antonioni, and Peter Weiss, all darlings of the cinematic avant-garde.

The Hotel Earle (Now The Washington Square Hotel) has been a haven for writers and artists for more than a century. Everyone from Bob Dylan to Norah Jones has been housed under its roof!

Tredwell House, September 1, 1937. Constructed in 1832, the three-story brick town house was once part of a row of six similar homes. It was built by Joseph Brewster and was likely designed from the pages of a pattern book such as ones created by the architect Minard Lafever. The home is an excellent example of the transition of style from Federal to Greek Revival at this time in Manhattan. Brewster lived in the home until 1835, when it was purchased by Seabury Tredwell, a hardware importer, whose business was located near the South Street Seaport. The Tredwell family owned the home for nearly the next century. Gertrude Tredwell, the final of eight siblings, was born (1840) and died (1933) in the house. Following Gertrude's death, George Chapman, a family cousin, turned the home into a museum. The house was designated a NYC Landmark, one of the first 20 designations in 1965. Today the museum features a collection of more than 3000 items, most of which belonged to the Tredwell family, and include furniture, decorations, lighting, household, personal and sewing accessories, family photographs, books, ephemera, works of art, costumes, and textiles. The plasterwork in the house is considered by many to be the most important extant example of a pre-Civil War residential interior in the United States.

George Bruno residence at 1 Macdougal Alley (aka 176 Macdougal Street), August 5, 1927. Macdougal Alley was created in 1833, for access to the carriage houses of property owners on Washington Square North and West Eighth Street. The corner building was home to the Prohibition-era Jumble Shop tearoom (later tap room, following repeal), and in recent decades a restaurant, laundromat, florist, and bridal shop. Macdougal Street and Alley are both named for Alexander McDougall, the Scottish born merchant and Revolutionary War figure who was a representative to the Continental Congress, the first president of the Bank of New York, and New York State Senator.

Alexander Lyman Holley Statue, ca. 1900. Sculpted by John Quincy Adams Ward in collaboration with Thomas Hastings, this bronze bust casted and dedicated in 1889 commemorates one of the founding fathers of engineering and industry. Sitting atop an Indiana limestone pedestal in a park replete with a grand arch, fountain, dog park, and chess tables, funds from the Society of Mechanical Engineers and Save American Treasures allowed the MAS Adopt-A-Monument program to restore this sculpture in 1999.

The former Hotel Albert complex consists of four buildings at 23 East 10th Street/40-52 East 11th Street/65-67 University Place. The buildings were constructed in 1875-76, 1881-82, 1903-1904, and 1922-1924. From the 1880s through the early 1970s, the Hotel played a large role in New York City’s cultural life. During the postwar era, prominent painters, writers, photographers, and musicians found inspiration at the hotel. LGBTQ and African-American artists established communities here, as did radical, Jewish, and working-class organizations such as the Progressive Labor Party. The hotel hosted dramatic productions at the “Albert Theatre for a brief period.” To learn more about the Hotel Albert, click here.

While Manhattan's streets were largely laid out with the Commissioners' Plan of 1811, this grid system was only implemented between Houston and 155th Streets. The plan left Greenwich Village with its long-established mews, alleys, and courts, many of which date to the city's early colonial period, intact. While not exclusively in the Village, most of the secret streets on this list are located there among the organically developed 18th-century street plan. While some changes have come to these streetscapes in the last century, in most cases their concealment and a healthy dose of historic preservation work have aided in their continued survival in the 21st century.

59 (right) and 60 (left) Washington Square South are the two four-story homes next to the wood-frame corner structure. When writer Willa Cather moved to New York in 1906 she lived in a studio in no. 60.

“If you’ve never heard of Pfaff’s saloon, or its coterie of Bohemian artists, that’s not surprising. More than 150 years have elapsed since this scene’s heyday, and time moves in mysterious — sometimes heedless — ways. History is not a meritocracy... To be precise, Pfaff’s (pronounced fafs) was beneath where the shoe store is now. It was an underground saloon in every sense of the word. There’s still a hatchway in the Broadway sidewalk, just as there was in the nineteenth century. It provides entry into the store’s basement, a long, narrow space, lit by electric bulbs and piled high with boxes of shoes. During the 1850s, it was dim, gaslit, and packed with artists. Pfaff’s saloon was the site of an incredibly important cultural movement, the meeting place of America’s first Bohemians. Their leader, Henry Clapp Jr., was editor of the hugely influential Saturday Press. Clapp deserves credit as the person who brought Bohemianism to America, both the word and the way of life. He was joined by a struggling experimental poet, well into middle age, yet still living at home in Brooklyn with his mother, Walt Whitman.” For more on Pfaff's, check out this exclusive by Justin Martin in Gotham: A Blog for Scholars of New York City History.

The Whitney Museum is now one of New York City's unparalleled art institutions. But it took a while to get there. Here's a brief history of the Whitney Museum

Germania Theatre, ca. 1895. The Germania Theatre pictured in this photo actually began life as the Church of St. Ann’s, which makes sense given the ecclesiastical design of the building. It was built at some point in the mid-19th century and later became a factory before it was ultimately converted to a theater. The Germania opened in September 1894, though the building had been used as a theatre previously. It did not survive long after, however, as it closed in 1903 to make way for the construction of the Wanamaker Building.

Theater, performance spaces, and the arts have always been an important part of the Village, East Village, and NoHo’s cultural heritage and built environment.

The original Rhinelander Mansion, No. 14, on the west corner of Fifth Avenue, was built in 1839-1840 for Mary (Rogers) Rhinelander as her family’s residence and continued to serve the family until the death of her daughter in 1914. The house, and adjoining No. 15, were a pair of splendid Greek Revival town houses, each 42 feet wide and three and one-half stories high, with attic windows in the fascia. At each, a stoop led to the entrance portico, framed by Corinthian columns, and an iron balcony graced the parlor floor. No. 15 was built as the residence of Gardiner Greene Howland, who had previously lived with his brother Samuel at No. 12 Washington Square North on the block east of Fifth Avenue. They were important shipping merchants.

Bayard-Condict Building The only New York building designed by Louis Sullivan, it represents an executed portion of a much larger building heh ad once planned for a trust and savings bank in the Midwest. The terra-cotta cornice, with its supporting angels, was an extremely interesting solution of the problem of how to handle the top of a building- a question which was of great concern to the architects of the 1880s and 1890s.

"Peter Cooper became one of New York’s prominent millionaires, yet he still saw himself as a master craftsman, 'A Mechanic of New York.' However, education was paramount on Cooper’s agenda. With the fortune Cooper had amassed from his glue business, ironworks, his patent inventions and his real estate holdings Cooper invested his money in The Cooper Union, commonly called at that time, Cooper Institute. It would be the crowning glory of his life. The cornerstone was laid in 1854.He erected an imposing six-story Italianate building between Third and Fourth Avenue at Astor Place. To support the floors and make the building fireproof the rolled structural iron beams were produced at the Cooper Hewitt & Company ironworks. These iron beams would make possible the building of future skyscrapers... Cooper Union was the first free institute to provide adult education in the fields of engineering, architecture and science for young men and women who qualified regardless of race, religion, sex or social status. It is acknowledged that although Cooper Union was Peter Cooper’s vision, it was Abram Hewitt’s brain that made it possible because he oversaw the construction of the building and served as Cooper Union’s president for over forty years." For more on Peter Cooper and Cooper Union, check out this article by Polly Guérin in Gotham: A Blog for Scholars of New York City History.

12-14 West 12th Street ca. Architect Alexander Jackson Davis was born on July 24, 1803. Davis, one of the most successful and influential American architects of his generation, is perhaps best known for his association with the Gothic Revival style of architecture and rural settings. Though many surviving examples by Davis exist in upstate New York and at other locales along the East Coast, some very prominent examples of Davis’ fine work once stood on lower Fifth Avenue. In 1849, Davis designed two matching Italianate mansions on West 12th Street, Nos. 12 & No. 14. A description of these buildings can be found on Daytonian in Manhattan: ” …abutting the churchyard of First Presbyterian Church, which had been completed three years earlier. The handsome brick residences reflected the refined neighborhood. Each two bays wide, they featured arched entrances four steps above the sidewalk and a cast iron, second floor balcony that ran the width both structures. Brownstone lintels and a simple cornice added to the understated elegance of Davis’ design.” These mansions survived into the mid-20th century, changing hands a couple of times throughout their lifespan. Most famously, No. 12 was the home of Thurlow Weed, an influential statesman. After the death of Thurlow, ownership of No. 12 fell to his daughter Harriet, and after her passing both buildings were taken over by the First Presbyterian Church, becoming their parsonage. However, in 1958, the church, in need of a modern church house, made the decision to tear down Nos. 12 & 14. A necessary decision for the church proved to be an unpopular one with the community, as reported by The Times: “Though church folk dislike the idea of having the old mansions torn down, and architects in town frown on the notion, too, they know they must go. The space is sorely needed for the children. So, one by one, the master works of great architects vanish from the city.” Davis, who worked along with the architect Ithiel Town, had a hand in other architectural works within the Village, including a portion of the now-demolished Brevoort Mansion on 5th Avenue, and the designs for Colonnade Row. However, with the loss of Nos. 12 & 14, the city lost a truly wonderful example of Davis’s designs. As lamented by The Times, “All that will remain of his dreaming on paper when the Twelfth Street mansions go down in rubble…will be a few villas up in Hudson River Valley.” Architect Alexander Jackson Davis was born on July 24, 1803. Davis, one of the most successful and influential American architects of his generation, is perhaps best known for his association with the Gothic Revival style of architecture and rural settings. Though many surviving examples by Davis exist in upstate New York and at other locales along the East Coast, some very prominent examples of Davis’ fine work once stood on lower Fifth Avenue.

"On March 25, 1911, a mere three days after the founding of the Wage Earner’s Suffrage League, the Triangle Shirtwaist Factory Fire transformed what Americans (especially in rural areas) knew and how they thought about factory work. When the fire broke out on the upper floors of the Asch Building at closing time on Saturday March 25, 1911, panicked workers instinctively ran for the nearest exits only to discover that the doors had been locked ostensibly to prevent employee thefts. Trapped in the inferno on the eighth, ninth, and tenth floors of the building too high up for ladders and hoses to reach, desperate workers jumped to their deaths. The fire claimed the lives of 146 immigrant workers, mostly Jewish and Italian women. Front-page banner headlines in newspapers across the country bore news of the tragedy and immediately heightened public awareness about the dangers of the industrial workplace. The time had come for state intervention. New York convened a factory investigating commission that would eventually pass more than thirty workplace fire, safety, and health laws. In 1914, the Smith Bill went as far as limiting the number of hours that women and children would be allowed to work." For more on how the Fire galvanized New York City's nationally pivotal suffrage movement, check out this article by Karen Pastorello in Gotham: A Blog for Scholars of New York City History.

Sixth Avenue El over West Broadway at West Third Street, ca. 1938. This view is looking south on West Broadway, from near Washington Square Park. The photo was likely taken shortly before Sixth Avenue El service was discontinued in December, 1938. Few elements of this street scene remain: The elevated tracks were dismantled shortly thereafter; the Open Door (left) at No. 567 West Broadway has been replaced by the Elmer Holmes Bobst Library; No. 562 (upper right) has been replaced by new, low-rise construction. Even the street names have changed: West Broadway is now LaGuardia Place, above Houston Street.

When searching through the chronicles of Greenwich Village history, some things almost seem too Village-y to be true, with all their quirky details and theatrical anecdotes. A prime example: The Pepper Pot Inn at 146 West 4th Street, a 1920s multi-level restaurant that became a sensation. Purchased in 1918 by Carlyle “Doc” Sherlock and his wife Viola, this spot came into being as the neighborhood surrounding Washington Square Park transitioned from affluent enclave to working-class territory and artists’ haven. Doc and Viola themselves tried to make it as actors on the big screen, but they soon left that world to become the owners of “the most popular eating place in the Village and a nation-wide destination.” The basement level of 146 West 4th served as the bustling restaurant of The Pepper Pot, where customers could enjoy a variety of cuisines, followed by Viola Sherlock’s own homemade desserts. Strings of peppers and paper lanterns decorated the ceiling, while the tables displayed enormous candles made of the wax drippings of all the candles that had sat there before. Artists seated at the table would carve figures into these mounds of wax, and the light from these candles illuminated the dark basement room. Home › South Village › The Pepper Pot Inn, “The Realest Thing in Bohemian Atmosphere” The Pepper Pot Inn, “The Realest Thing in Bohemian Atmosphere” A view down West 4th Street with The Pepper Pot's big vertical sign and ads on neighboring buildings. Via http://daytoninmanhattan.blogspot.com. The Pepper Pot Inn, “The Realest Thing in Bohemian Atmosphere” Laura FleischmannLaura FleischmannPosted on August 2, 2019 Posted in South Village, Uncategorized — 4 Comments ↓ When searching through the chronicles of Greenwich Village history, some things almost seem too Village-y to be true, with all their quirky details and theatrical anecdotes. A prime example: The Pepper Pot Inn at 146 West 4th Street, a 1920s multi-level restaurant that became a sensation. Purchased in 1918 by Carlyle “Doc” Sherlock and his wife Viola, this spot came into being as the neighborhood surrounding Washington Square Park transitioned from affluent enclave to working-class territory and artists’ haven. Doc and Viola themselves tried to make it as actors on the big screen, but they soon left that world to become the owners of “the most popular eating place in the Village and a nation-wide destination.” A view down West 4th Street east from 6th Avenue with The Pepper Pot’s big vertical sign and ads on neighboring buildings. Via http://daytoninmanhattan.blogspot.com. Lanterns, Candles, and Chili Peppers The basement level of 146 West 4th served as the bustling restaurant of The Pepper Pot, where customers could enjoy a variety of cuisines, followed by Viola Sherlock’s own homemade desserts. Strings of peppers and paper lanterns decorated the ceiling, while the tables displayed enormous candles made of the wax drippings of all the candles that had sat there before. Artists seated at the table would carve figures into these mounds of wax, and the light from these candles illuminated the dark basement room. On the parlor and second floors of this 1828 house, guests could dance and enjoy music. An image of the dance floor also appears to show a ceiling of greenery and more lanterns, with beautiful sunlight coming in from a tall window. Then above this was the Bridge Room, where Carlyle and Viola’s “friends of the motion picture, theatrical, bridge and chess world” could play and watch “exhibitions” of expert players. As The Pepper Pot continued to flourish through the Roaring ‘20s, it became a popular spot for a new wave the neighbors didn’t care for – jazz! As Daytonian in Manhattan describes, “In the days before air conditioning open windows let in the night breezes but also let out the blaring music.” As a result, the Sherlocks’ landlady across the street, Mrs. Creveling, and her neighbor stopped by Jefferson Market Court to file a complaint. The landlady told the magistrate of “those funny ditties that they play” and the liquor continuing to flow despite prohibition. Dr. Sherlock arrived in court on February 17, 1921 ready to fight this case. But according to the New York Times from the following day, he “waited in vain for the complaintants.” And so, the music and enjoyment continued at The Pepper Pot. A year later The Evening World newspaper described the place as still “extremely Greenwich Village – with an automatic piano in the candle-lit basement and a group of furious jazzers two floors above.” A few years later, Carlyle and Viola moved to their country home and another person managed the place, which by this time had expanded to include Nos. 148 and 150. Newspaper reviews continued to paint a picture of a funky hangout, complete with a fortuneteller, tap dancing, singing, dim lights, and neighborhood celebrities “of whom there have been many in the proud Pepper Pot past.” The good times k...

MacDougal Alley, March 20, 1936. A cul-de-sac off MacDougal Street, MacDougal Alley is actually a mews. In a mews, the buildings have to have been working stables or carriage houses at some point. And the homes seen here were just that, for the large homes that lined nearby West 8th Street and Washington Square North. Named after a Revolutionary War hero, Alexander McDougall (the original spelling of his name), the small street had been home to a number of artists and art related venues. Gertrude Vanderbilt established her studio at no. 19, which has since become the New York Studio School of Drawing, Painting, and Sculpture. Jackson Pollack lived at no. 9 for a year in the late 1940s and sculptor Isamu Noguchi lived at no. 33, which was demolished mid-century during the construction of nearby 2 Fifth Avenue.

Astor Library ARCHITECT: Alexander Saeltzer; Griffith Thomas DATE: 1849-69 STYLE: Northern Italian Renaissance The Library is a three-story brick and stone building with basement and attic story. This structure has special value because each of the three portions of its development has been carefully maintained and constituted a source of stylistic influence over a wide area. Modifications, for the most part, have been few. The Library is developed in a symmetrical plan in an early Renaissance manner. Most of the architectural details of the building stem from North Italian Renaissance work of the first half of the 15th century.

Washington Square Park ca. 1908 Originally a potter's field and gallows, Washington Square was later reclaimed as a parade ground and then converted to a park. During the second quarter of the nineteenth century Georgian houses lined the park's periphery, several examples of which still stand on Washington Square North. By the early twentieth century, boarding houses appeared on the south side of the park, attracting many artists as tenants.

For much of New York's history, its Easter Parade was one of the most important parts of the Easter holiday. Starting in the 1880s, it quickly became one of the social events of the season.

27 Third Avenue | Block : 464 | Lot #3 Building Date : Circa 1850 Original Use : Residential/Commercial Original Owner : Unknown Original Architect : Unknown Description & Building Alterations 25 Third Avenue was constructed in 1829 for William Butler, and 27 Third Avenue was constructed in 1831 for Piere Hall. Both were originally built as residences above ground-floor shops. By 1914, both buildings were six-stories tall and only used for commercial purposes. In 1936, the upper floors of both buildings were removed and the remaining one-story structures were joined along with 3 St. Mark’s Place.

While it may look like the fountain has been standing since the park’s construction in 1852, the structure we see today was actually the product of a 2007 renovation. This renovation, spanning four years, reoriented the location of the fountain to properly align with the archway (designed by Stanford White), creating one of those picture-perfect NYC views down Fifth Avenue. However, the plan was not widely accepted by the community. Prior to construction, there were several lawsuits filed against the city to block the project from taking place. Ultimately the city won, and the final phase of the project was completed in 2011

This year marks the 60th anniversary of the Landmarks Law, which for the first time allowed buildings, neighborhoods, and sites to be preserved through landmark designation in New York City. Designated on April 29, 1969, the Greenwich Village Historic District is one of our city's oldest and largest historic districts. At over 2,200 buildings and 100 blocks, it covers much (but not all) of Greenwich Village between University Place and Washington Street, 13th Street and West 4th Street/St. Luke's Place. Its continuing preservation and oversight remains at the core of Village Preservation's mission, along with that of the 15 other historic districts, over 100 individual landmarks, and eight interior landmarks designated in our neighborhoods since — you can view an interactive timeline of all of these designations here. The Greenwich Village Historic District is undeniably charming — so much so that it’s virtually impossible to come up with a top-10 list of its most alluring architectural gems. But with no insult to sites not included, here is one run at 10 of the most charming sites you’ll find in this extraordinarily quaint historic quarter.

Columbia Hall/"Paresis Hall" (former location), 32 Cooper Square ca. 1919 James T. (Biff) Ellison (a gangster affiliated with the Five Points Gang) opened Columbia Hall, better known as Paresis Hall, in the 1890s in the building that is still standing at 32 Cooper Square. He apparently made no attempt to disguise the establishment as anything other than what it was, a 'fairy resort', where male prostitutes waited tables, performed, and offered sex to patrons. For the men who frequented Paresis Hall, it was not the degenerate resort that tourists and reformers saw. It offered them an important social center and provided a sense of community and support.

The East Village has long been a richly diverse immigrant neighborhood. It has also served as a hub for cultural movements: the Beats, punk rock, bohemians, Hare-Krishna…the list goes on. Take a walk through the area that was considered the center of counterculture in New York.

First Presbyterian Church ca. 1900 Set in ample grounds where it may be seen from three sides, this handsome exemplar of the Gothic Revival makes us realize that all was not necessarily fuss and gingerbread in this period. Joseph C. Wells, the architect, attempted a scholarly representation of an ecclesiastical style which, at best, was foreign to this country before 1835.

396 Sixth Avenue, ca. 1969. Nathan's Hot Dogs was one of the first tenants to occupy No. 396 Sixth Avenue, a one-story commercial space built in 1950. According to the Greenwich Village Society for Historic Preservation, photographer Doris Diether "took this picture because of objections to Nathan's move to 8th Street. At the time, it was the first chain restaurant to move onto the street and there were concerns that it would move operations outdoors." Following Nathan's departure, the building was renovated in the early 1980s into a two-story storefront for B. Dalton, a local bookstore. Barnes and Noble later took over the space, though, after 12 years renting, it was priced out in 2012.

Doorway of 61 Washington Square South, March 1945. Referred to as the “House of Genius,” the rowhouse at 61 Washington Square South was so named for the creative and bohemian writers, musicians, and artists that lived in the boarding house there. Madame Blanchard, a Swiss immigrant, began leasing the home in 1886. She converted the single-family home into a rooming house that only rented to creative types. Considered a cultural landmark, residents included writers Stephen Crane, O. Henry, and opera singer Adelina Patti. The four-story red brick rowhouse, which had been constructed in the early to mid 19th century, was one of a row of similar buildings between West Broadway and Thompson Street, which all occupied a role as literary and artistic residences. In 1937 Madame Blanchard, the house matron died. In the 1940s, no. 61 and its neighbors were purchased by developer Anthony Campagna, who planned to demolish the row for a new apartment complex. In response to this plan, the neighbors and artists pushed back, establishing the Committee for the Washington Square Living Art Center. They hoped to retain the structures for a live and work art space. Despite their efforts, the residents were evicted and the buildings were razed in 1948. The developer did not construct the planned apartment house and instead sold the land to NYU, which built a student center. This failed preservation battle is considered the impetus for passionate preservation efforts by the neighborhood and the eventual designation of the Greenwich Village Historic District in 1969.

23 East 11th Street, ca. 1971.

New York's first major library, the Astor Library, founded on Lafayette Street with money donated by financier John Jacob Astor. The Astor is one of three private libraries that merged to form the New York Public Library in 1895.

From Washington Square Park to the Whitney Museum, there is always a new piece of New York City social and cultural history to discover on a walk through Greenwich Village. The neighborhood is steeped in history. In the 1950s and 1960s, the Village was the center for the LGBT and counterculture movements and still continues to be a welcoming and accepting place for all. With a plethora of jazz clubs and local music venues to stop in and soak up the local scene, you’ll need to stop for a coffee or a quick bite at one of the storied cafes or restaurants along your way. Many of the great dining options around the neighborhood have been around for decades—some boast over a century of service—and whatever cuisine you’re in the mood for, Greenwich Village is sure to serve it up.

Colonnade Row ca. 1929 Presenting a uniform facade to the street, this building might be best described as a "house of mansions," in that it consisted of a row of individual, privately owned town houses unified behind its superb colonnade. Unfortunately, half of these have been torn down to make way of a warehouse. We can see that New York, with such superb planning as this, once had ideals that might have rendered entire city blocks as handsome as those of Paris.

Above the display windows of Crate & Barrel, and the crowded Broadway and Houston Street sidewalks is a facade of uniquely decorative flourishes that hint at a time of transition for New York’s infrastructure. This building is a massive structure and was included within the boundaries of the NoHo Historic District. Two sculptures of classically-garbed women stand astride a massive circular window, sitting atop a pediment that reads ‘The Cable Building.’ The ‘cable’ in the building’s name refers not the kind of cable that transmits telegraph, telephone, or television, but the kind that pulls cable cars. Built from 1892 to 1894 by the Broadway & Seventh Avenue Railroad Company (later the Metropolitan Traction Company), the building was a unique example of a multi-use structure. It housed in its lower floors the machinery needed to propel much of the Broadway cable car system, with a large office building above. Four 32-foot wheels kept the network of cables in motion for as many as sixty cable cars traveling up and down Broadway from the Battery to Midtown (the cars moved by clamping on to the moving cable embedded in the street). The building was built with a steel and iron frame, with terra cotta and stone facing by the noted firm of McKim, Mead, and White. The New York Times noted “Although the large windows clearly denote a commercial space, the delicate terra cotta, light orange brick and elaborate copper cornice are characteristic of more monumental design. The sculptor J. Massey Rhind designed two colossal female figures flanking the doorway — commissioned sculpture is also unusual on commercial buildings. The Real Estate Record and Guide called the new Cable Building ”the highest achievement of the art” and remarked that, with its example, ‘no excuse remains for building cheaply or meanly on any New York City property.’” As the prediction of the demise of ‘cheaply’ or ‘meanly’ made buildings didn’t quite pan out, neither did the Metropolitan Traction Company’s hopes for business success. Less than a decade after the building and its massive steam-powered cable moving machinery were constructed, electric technology made it obsolete. In May of 1901, the final cable car trundled down Broadway and the line was electrified. A few years later in 1904, the subway system would begin opening and connecting the city. The building would stand to see the significant widening of Houston Street in the 1930s and housed many small-scale manufacturers and offices, including businesses like National Pants, Hercules Shoe Lace and the Doll Parts Manufacturing Association. By the mid-1980s after changes in ownership, the building was largely converted back to office use, and in 1989, the Angelika Film Center opened on the southwest side of the building, occupying much of the space that previously housed the cable car machinery.

The Village Gate, 158 Bleecker Street, on the ground floor and basement of the Atrium building, ca. 1975. Designed by Ernest Flagg, Mills House No. 1 (today called the Atrium Building) was completed in 1897. The building was the brainchild of Darius Ogden Mills. His idea was to develop clean, "healthful" hotels which would allow struggling men to get a leg up. Between 1897 and 1904 he built three single-room-occupancy hotels as alternatives to slum housing. The Mills House No. 1 was the largest. While the rooms were tiny by any standards, only five by seven feet, each one looked out onto either the street or one of two 50 by 50-foot courtyards. According to the New York Times, "each room had an iron bedstead, a hair mattress and pillow, a feather pillow, a chair and a clothes rack; there was no room for anything else. The walls stopped about a foot short of the ceilings, apparently to assure good ventilation." A stay here cost 20 cents a night. In the 1970's the building was reconfigured into regular apartments, although the airy courtyards, glass skylights, and most of Flagg's exterior survive. Between 1958 and 1996, the Village Gate, a nightclub, occupied the first floor and basement of the building at the corner of Thompson and Bleecker Streets.

Sprague Building ca. 1905 On the corner of 12th Street, the highly ornamented 817 Broadway is a visual treat. The building, which turns 120 years old this year (in 2015) , was constructed in 1895 to the designs of prolific architect George B. Post. Post designed several well-known buildings in New York that have long been demolished, so it was nice to come across his name during our survey of the Broadway/University Place/14th Street area. As with many other buildings along Broadway at the turn of the century, 817 Broadway housed clothing manufacturing. This particular structure was designed for Meyer Jonasson & Company, cloak manufacturers, for a cost of $250,000. The building later became known as the Sprague Building. This 1905 photo, taken by Irving Underhill (courtesy of the Museum of the City of New York), shows what the intersection of Broadway and 12th Street looked like 110 years ago. Needless to say, this building made quite a statement. Post was known for his innovative skyscraper designs; his now-demolished New York World Building was, for a time, the tallest in the world. It seems surprising today that this would be considered a skyscraper, but when you look at the surrounding buildings in the photo you can see what an impression this building must have made. An alteration permit from 1940 indicates that the storefronts were changed in that year. The thing that is particularly striking about this building is the way the triangular piers change the look of the facade depending on where you’re looking. There is also the sense that there are two different facade designs – Broadway versus 12th Street – when in fact they are both exactly the same (except that Broadway is only three bays wide).

56-58 Bleecker Street; ca. 1975.

The Fifth Avenue Hotel, 24 Fifth Avenue ca. 1926 Replacing the Brevoort mansion at the northwest corner of Fifth Avenue and West 9th Street, the Fifth Avenue Hotel was built in 1926 as a high-class apartment hotel. Apartment hotels provided people with the option of a permanent residence with the provision of housekeeping and cooking services. Typical units ranged in size from one to three rooms and each came with a serving pantry in lieu of a kitchen. This handsome building is 15 stories in height with a limestone, two-story base and brick in two different shades of buff to lend texture to the upper floors. Terra-cotta ornament is featured throughout the exterior colored in blue, brown and gold

The Brittany Hotel ca. 1922 The Brittany dates to 1929, and was built as an apartment hotel. It was consciously and respectfully built in the Gothic Revival style in deference to the magnificent Grace Church across the street — one of New York’s great Gothic landmarks designed by one of America’s most prominent architect’s, James Renwick.

Old Merchant’s House Interior ARCHITECT: Unknown DATE: 1831-32 STYLE: Greek Revival The Old Merchant’s House is characteristic of the type of large brick residence popular with well-to-do New Yorkers during the decade from 1825 to 1835. While the exterior of the house reflects late Federal architecture, the interiors are elaborately finished in the newly-introduced Greek Revival style. The important rooms in the house are unaltered and now appear exactly as they did when originally completed.

No. 7 Washington Square North, ca. 1925. Built by the Scottish-born merchant John Johnston in 1832-3, No. 7 was the largest house on the block. After Johnston’s death in 1851, the house remained in the family: His son, John Taylor Johnston, would become the first President of the Metropolitan Museum of Art. At the time of Samuel H. Gottscho’s photo, ca. 1925, the residents were Robert W. de Forest and Emily de Forest, the elder Johnston’s granddaughter. According to Robert de Forest, “on the day of \[the Met’s] founding, I became engaged to the daughter of one of the founders and married her as soon as I could.” De Forest would go on to become a Trustee of the museum and, in 1913, its fifth President. Architecturally, all is not as it seems along Washington Square North. A 1939 renovation connected the townhouses of Nos. 7-13 as a modern apartment building, without altering the appearance of their historic facades. The residences, now owned by New York University, are entered on Fifth Avenue.

New York Infirmary for Women and Children In 1857 the first female physician in America, Dr. Elizabeth Blackwell, established a the first hospital for women, staffed by women, and run by women called The New York Infirmary for Women and Children. It was located in the house at 58 Bleecker Street, which was originally numbered 64 Bleecker Street. Built in 1822-1823, the house was erected for James Roosevelt, great grandfather of Franklin Delano Roosevelt, who lived there until his passing only ten years before Blackwell began renting there. Blackwell's hospital opened its doors on May 12, 1857, the 37th birthday of Florence Nightingale, whom Blackwell had befriended earlier in her career. The hospital was open seven days a week and provided medical care for needy women and children free of charge. The staff at first consisted of Elizabeth, director; her sister Emily Blackwell, surgeon; and Dr. Marie Zakrewska. The hospital provided practical medical instruction for women studying for their medical degree, which was unavailable elsewhere. The hospital was operated solely by a staff of women, and its opening was attended and praised by the noted abolitionist preacher Rev. Henry Ward Beecher. However, many others were not enthusiastic about this enterprise, and according to Blackwell she was told that no one would rent her a space for this purpose, that the police would shut the hospital down, that they would not be able to control the patients, and that no one would financially support such an institution. However, the hospital was able to operate and over time views on women in medicine evolved. The hospital was responsible for innovations in hygiene-critical in preventing disease and in educating the public on those benefits, such as bathing ailing patients and encouraging them to keep clean. Blackwell also launched a "Sanitary Visitor" program to visit the needy in their homes in the slums and improve hygiene. The program later expanded into the hospital’s "Out Practice Department," a precursor of the Visiting Nurse Service. The first Sanitary Visitor, Rebecca Cole, was also the second African American woman to become a doctor in America. By 1865 the trustees applied for a charter to become a medical college, the Women’s Medical College of the New York Infirmary located at 128 Second Avenue (see map entry). The hospital still exists today as New York Downtown Hospital which merged with New York Presbyterian in 2013. Prior to opening the hospital, Blackwell's had opened a series of dispensaries in several locations around the East Village to serve poor women and children in the surrounding community. The first location was opened in 1853 at 207 East 7th Street (demolished). Blackwell moved the dispensary to 36 Avenue A/136 East 3rd Street (present day 150 East 3rd Street, also demolished). In 1854, the New York Dispensary for Poor Women and Children was incorporated and the institution moved to a small house on the corner of East 15th Street and Second Avenue. In 2018 GVSHP installed a plaque at this location honoring Elizabeth Blackwell and the New York Infirmary for Women and Children (see link below).

The Skidmore House This three and a half story house was built in 1844-45 by Samuel Tredwell Skidmore, a relative of Seabury Tredwell, who lived with his family only a few doors away at 29 East 4th Street, known today as the Merchant’s House Museum. The Skidmore house and the Merchant’s House Museum are the two last surviving remnants of the once numerous and elegant early 19th century residences on this block. At the time of the Skidmore House’s completion in 1845, it was located in the midst of a very fashionable residential neighborhood. Meanwhile the area to the north was largely undeveloped. Grace Church, at 10th Street and Broadway for example, was still under construction. According to the designation report of the LPC: No. 37, built in 1844-45, is unusually impressive… a deep house, occupying a larger than usual portion of the lot. A high stoop, over a stone basement which still retains traces of rustication, leads to a handsome doorway with full entablature supported by a pair of Ionic columns, a typically Greek Revival feature. The Inner doorway, behind paneled reveals, is flanked by blocked-up sidelights, set between square pilasters. A three-paned transom crowns the doorway. Traces of a delicate carved molding, which once surrounded the transom, are still visible. Vestiges of the cap moldings, which originally surmounted the window lintels, remain above the windows of the third story. Six-over-six window sash is still in place at the third story, and the low attic windows and simple wood roof cornice, with fascia below, are likewise features of the Greek Revival style. A dramatic transformation from derelict wreck to beautifully restored landmark has continued the fascinating tale of this unique structure. In 1974 New York Times art critic John Russel called it “one of the prettiest houses in the town”. But by the 90’s the owner’s estate had left the building rotting and exposed to the elements and in disrepair. Fortunately the Landmark Preservation Commission eventually commenced a lawsuit against the owners for their failure to maintain the building, and won. The owners were ordered by the State Supreme Court to repair and restore the exterior (read more here). The building has since then undergone a full restoration.

Gotham firehouse and engine, 1901. Built in 1898-1899, the W. B. Chambers and Ernest Flagg-designed firehouse is a classic Beaux-Arts structure. The facade of red brick and limestone is dominated by a monumental arch. Engine Co. 33 which has been housed here since its completion, was initially established in November of 1865 at 220 Mercer Street. The building was designed to include the fire chief's “night headquarters” and in June 1899 Chief Edward F. Crocker moved in. His office was said to have "usual paintings, statuary, and hunting accoutrements." On March 25, 1911, Engine Co. 33 was one of the first responders to the nearby Triangle Factory fire. Chief Crocker retired five weeks after the fire after 27 years with the FDNY, citing his wish "to prevent, instead of fight fires. In 2001, 10 of the 14 firemen from Engine 33 that responded to the WTC never returned home. A plaque on the facade honors them. This building also has the distinction of being double landmarked, first as an individual landmark in 1968 and again as part of the NoHo Historic District Extension in 2008.

Clinton Hall, operated by the New York Mercantile Library, 1891. This building was formerly the Astor Opera House, site of the infamous 1849 Astor Place Riot. On the evening of May 10, 1849, a crowd some 15,000 strong gathered outside the Astor Place Opera House to protest the appearance of the English Shakespearean actor, William Charles Macready. A symbol of British aristocracy, Macready (1793-1873) had not endeared himself to Americans, most of whom he considered boorish and uncultured. In expressing its distaste for Macready, the crowd championed Edwin Forrest (1806-1872), an American-born Shakespearean actor who shared their fierce working-class determination not to be dominated by elite outsiders. Members of the crowd, primarily young males, began pelting the theater with paving stones, the debris from a nearby construction site. The stones rained down on the building and on the unarmed police called in to protect the theater and the English actor. Assault followed assault. The crowd would not be repulsed. Policemen were injured. Finally, the militia were summoned to quell the disturbance. When the echo of gunfire quieted, 23 people lay dead or dying, and over 100 were wounded, some seriously.

The former Mad Hatter tearoom, 150 West Fourth Street, 1932. The wood-framed, brick-fronted building at 150 West Fourth Street dates to the early 1800s, but became a Greenwich Village fixture in 1916 when the sculptor Edith Unger opened the Mad Hatter tearoom in its basement. The Mad Hatter claimed to be the first tearoom in Greenwich Village, a hangout for the neighborhood’s so-called Bohemian types: artists, writers, performers, and hangers on. As curiosity about the Bohemian lifestyle became fashionable, the Mad Hatter became a popular downtown destination. However, the tearoom’s popularity was to be short lived: by the time of Charles Von Urban’s 1932 photograph, the basement-level entrance had been sealed, though the “Mad Hatter” lettering is still visible, just above the sidewalk.

801 Broadway, unknown date. The middle of the 19th Century saw an influx of wealthy New Yorkers moving north of Washington Square. To cater to this growing population, lavish new developments began to spring up around Union Square. Gothic Revival religious institutions such as the James Renwick-designed Grace Church and the Richard Upjohn-designed Church of the Ascension (a 2011 GVSHP Village Award winner) served as local landmarks. For the more informal daily routines of wealthy women, stately department stores became the trend. Often known as dry goods stores (to distinguish their goods from those carried in hardware and grocery stores) , these large shopping meccas also served as social gathering places where women could mingle with their peers, have lunch, and, of course, spend money. The original Macy’s store was located on 14th Street (which was landmarked in 2011) and the A.T. Stewart store was on East 10th Street and Broadway. Another important retail presence was James McCreery & Co. James McCreery & Co. Dry Goods opened its doors in 1869. Previously, Mr. James McCreery was employed by Ubsdell, Pierson & Lake, a department store located on Broadway and Grand Streets. He worked his way up to become a partner in the company. Upon Lake’s retirement in 1867, the company was renamed James McCreery & Company. He then commissioned a new store on Broadway and 11th Street that would come to be known as one of the nation’s most esteemed dry goods stores. The building was designed by architect John Kellum, known for his work in the new medium of cast-iron. His reputation stemmed in part from his design of the A.T. Stewart Department Store. The James McCreery & Co. building occupied a large lot fronted by both Broadway and 11th Street. Both facades were cast-iron from the foundry of J. B. & W. W. Cornell Ironworks. The Italianate/French Second Empire style exemplified the extravagant goods housed inside, namely the luxurious silks unavailable elsewhere. Around 1895, McCreery followed the department store trend up to “Ladies’ Mile,” 6th Avenue between 14th and 23rd Streets, when he opened his second store on 6th Avenue and 23rd Street. According to CastIronNYC.org, “McCreery sold the \[11th Street] building to the Methodist Book Concern and Missionary Society and leased back space in the lower floors; McCreery repurchased the building in 1889. James McCreery & Co. remained in the building until 1902. By 1910 the original mansard roof had been replaced….and the storefront housed Fleischman’s Restaurant.” The original mansard roof referenced here was lost to a fire on July 3, 1909 and replaced by a one story addition. The upper floors were occupied by factories that produced suits, shoes, and leather wares. In 1971, a fire begun in one of the factories destroyed the interior of the building. Thanks to the cast-iron construction, though, the façade was left unscathed but the top story was lost. The following year, the building was purchased by the Elghanayan brothers. As noted by Daytonian in Manhattan, “When their intentions to demolish the remaining shell and erect a high-rise apartment building in its place were announced, the community protested. Residents rallied along with the Friends of Cast Iron and community groups, appearing before the Board of Appeals. The Board granted variances that made renovating the existing structure to residential use economically feasible.” This project became an early example of a commercial building converted to residential use. During the adaptation, the two setback stories were added at the roof. It was renamed the Cast Iron Building. There are 144 apartments, none of which are identical. The building is currently calendared for landmark designation.

Judson Memorial Church ca. 1935 When McKim, Mead & White brought a note of gaiety to a drab city of brownstones with Madison Square Garden, they introduced the best of the Italian Renaissance to New York. It was followed by an ever increasing series of handsome buildings and churches, of which this group with its campanile is one of the finest.

Washington Square Arch ca. 1925 Originally erected in staff and plaster by Stanford White in celebration of the hundredth anniversary of Washington's inauguration as President, the arch found such popular favor that it was rebuilt in permanent materials. Statues of Washington in war and peace face northward up the Avenue, and it is interesting to note the freedom in design of the panels behind them relative to the otherwise Classical design.

While their significance is often underestimated or dismissed by heterosexual society, bars and other establishments played a pivotal role throughout the 20th century — but particularly in the pre-Stonewall era — as centers for LGBT activism and community. These spaces, whether always gay friendly or only during certain times of the day or week, gave LGBT people the freedom to be themselves in a way they usually could not be in their personal or professional lives. This curated collection largely reflects the bar and nightlife scene of downtown Manhattan; as we research more sites we encourage you to reach out to us with suggestions in upper Manhattan and the outer boroughs.

The Asian-American and Pacific Islander community has a more than 150-year-long history in the United States, dating back to the first wave of Chinese and Japanese immigrants settling on the West Coast. And while nearby neighborhoods like Chinatown or the Lower East Side may have been much more prominent hubs for Asian-Americans, Greenwich Village and the East Village nevertheless can boast a long and impressive roster of individuals, organizations, institutions, and events located here that played an important role in the story of Asian-Americans in our city and country — especially (and unsurprisingly) in relation to civil rights and the arts. It is here that rights were won; discrimination was given a human face; innovations in painting, writing, and sculpture took place; and people gathered to confront the challenges and opportunities presented by the world around them. Here are just a few of those inspiring individuals, places, and associations:

127, 129, 131 MacDougal Street Houses ARCHITECT: Unknown DATE: 1828-29 STYLE: Federal These three buildings were constructed in the Federal style, characterized by its 2-1/2-story height, Flemish bond brickwork, low stoop with wrought-ironwork, entrance with Ionic columns, entablature and transom, molded lintels with end blocks, peaked roof, molded cornice, and pedimented double dormers.

82 Washington Place, ca. 1975. Rendered in a French Beaux-Arts style, this six-story apartment building was completed in 1903 by architects Horenburger & Straub. Famous residents have included author Willa Cather and urbanist and Robert Moses adversary Jane Jacobs.

Buildings on the west side of Fourth Avenue, below 9th Street, during construction of the IRT Lexington Avenue Line, December 10, 1902. The buildings were razed the next year, when construction began on 770 Broadway, the massive, full-block annex to the original Wanamaker department store.

Judson Memorial Church was named by founder Rev. Edward Judson for his father, Rev. Adoniram Judson,the first American Protestant "foreign missionary," who went to Burma in 1812 and died at sea on the way home with no other memorial.

Grace Church ca. 1893 Completed in 1846, Grace Church in New York is one of the earliest examples of Gothic revival architecture in New York City. Designed by James Renwick, Jr. at the age of twenty three, the building and its campus hold three celebrated distinctions: New York City Landmark, National Register of Historic Places, and National Historic Landmark. Grace Church remains an active Episcopal congregation, with worship throughout the week and abundant opportunities for service and fellowship. Its landmark buildings feature designs by Renwick, a renovation and extension by Heins & La Farge, decoration by Tiffany, windows by Clayton & Bell, along with many other celebrated artisans. The Bicentennial Organ, Opus 65, one of the finest instruments in the city, was completed in September 2013 by Taylor & Boody of Staunton, VA. It's comprised of 97 ranks and over five thousand pipes. Throughout the last decade, Grace Church has undergone significant interior restoration, including the Te Deum window rising above the altar and chancel at the front of the church. In the summer of 2017, the entire expanse of the high ceiling was restored to its original condition. Taken together, this important work will ensure that Grace Church lives on as a Greenwich Village landmark for generations to come.

Washington Square Arch Wrapped, 1980. In 1980 artist Francis Hines wrapped the Arch in 8,000 yards of polyester netting. Using rope and fabrics and metal and mechanical devices, Hines' work often included covering large objects, similar to artists Christo and Jean-Claude. Described as “a giant bandage for a wounded Monument,” the work stayed up for six days and aimed to call attention to and raise funds for park improvements.

New York City Fire Engine No. 72 Cinema Village, located at 22 East 12th Street, is the oldest continuously operated cinema in Greenwich Village and one of the oldest continuously operated art cinemas in the city. Information from GVSHP’s research notes the following about the Cinema Village building: The façade appears to date from a 1964 alteration. The NB application shows that the structure was built as a three-story fire engine house in 1898 and designed by Horgan & Slattery for the City of New York. (Horgan & Slattery designed the Butterick Building at the Corner of 6th and Spring Streets in 1903 and other sites around the city during the early twentieth century). The building at 22 East 12th Street remained in use as a firehouse until it was converted to a movie theater in the 1960s. A 1964 Certificate of Occupancy shows it was operating as a “moving picture theater and entrance lobby.” The theater opened on October 5th of that year with Ingmar Bergman’s All These Women. Through most of its early years, Cinema Village was one of the city’s many repertory cinemas, showcasing vintage movies, cult classics, and contemporary favorites on double bills (aka double features) that would usually change three times a week. This once essential programming format has mostly died out in commercial movie theaters throughout New York City and the United States. By the late 1980s – and due to the surge in home video, buy outs by large-name theaters, and real estate development – commercial repertory cinema all but disappeared in New York City. Cinema Village escaped closure, surviving by presenting limited engagements of unconventional first run shows. In the early 1990s, before Jackie Chan, John Woo, Michele Yeoh and their stunt coordinators went to Hollywood, Cinema Village became known, through its annual festivals and other bookings, as the place to see the Hong Kong films of what would soon be acknowledged as a filmmaking golden age.

De Vinne Press Building, ca, 1975. In 1884, owing to the success and growth of the De Vinne Press company, owner and printer Theodore Low De Vinne purchased a large plot of the corner of Lafayette (then) Place and 4th Street. De Vinne commissioned the firm of Babb, Cook, and Willard to design a functional space that would also be impressive from the outside. The resulting eight-story, red brick, Romanesque Revival building, completed in 1886) met all of the press company's wishes. Though obviously a solid industrial building, the massing was lightened by multi-story arched windows and thin brick quoins at the softly curved corner. The interior had little ornamentation and was laid out for efficient productivity. It was here that the press produced the 24-part, six-volume “Century Dictionary,” considered to be De Vinne's greatest accomplishment as a printer. De Vinne Press ceased operations in 1922 and today the red brick building is the Astor Center, an event space and wine shop.

Mabel Dodge Luhan Residence, 23 5th Avenue ca. 1915 Mabel Dodge Luhan was born in Buffalo, New York, to wealthy banker Charles Ganson and his wife Sarah Cook and grew up among the social elite. While living in New York City in 1912, Gertrude Stein introduced her to the Greenwich Village intelligentsia and provided Dodge's introduction to the artists and collectors organizing the Amory Show of modern art, which is considered the event that launched Dodge into action. Dodge organized weekly salons in her apartment at 23 Fifth Avenue (since replaced by the building with the address 25 5th Avenue) to include a mix of intellectuals and artists. John Reed and Max Eastman met with Margaret Sanger and Charles Demuth. Most importantly, the salons often crossed class barriers as Dodge invited those of different classes such as Emma Goldman and Bill Haywood to bring new voices into the conversations she hosted. She wrote that she wanted her guests to mix “in an unaccustomed freedom a kind of speech called Free.” In 1919, she moved to Taos, New Mexico and began a literary colony and hosted a number of influential artists and poets including Ansel Adams, Willa Cather, Georgia O'Keeffe, Aldous Huxley, and D.H. Lawrence. She died in 1962 at her home in Taos, which is now a National Historic Landmark.

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Samuel S. Cox Statue, 1891. Louise Lawson's sculpture of Congressman Samuel S. Cox stands eighth feet tall on an eleven-foot tall pedestal and depicts Cox gesturing towards Congress. The passionate orator stood at the triangle between Fourth Avenue and Lafayette Street, just behind the present uptown 6 train station entrance. Cox was known as the "letter-carriers' friend," championing legislation that led to paid benefits for postal employees. The statue was funded by the U.S. Postal Service workers - in fact, the monument credits mail carriers from 188 cities for their contributions. Upon the unveiling of the statue, the New York Tribune wrote: "The likeness is not a good one." The New York Times pondered if it would ever be regarded as a work of art. The Sun's Guide was more direct with its criticism, calling Lawson's work " a stiff, inartistic affair." When Lafayette Street was extended, the Cox statue was moved to Tompkins Square Park, close to Seventh Street and Avenue A. His back is positioned squarely towards the park.

8th Street, at the intersection of Fourth Avenue, Astor Place, and the northern end of Lafayette Street, 1931. The building at right is the Bible House of the American Bible Society. Constructed in 1853 the six-story building occupied a full city block and included a salesroom, a modern printing facility, and a technologically advanced department for book binding. The first cast iron framed building in the city, the facility produced tens of millions of bibles in various languages. This headquarters along with the move of the New York Mercantile Library to a nearby building, attracted other publishing firms, libraries, and bookstores to the area, which became a sort of 'Book Row.' The Bible House was demolished in 1956, and signaled the beginning of the end for the literary and publishing firms in the neighborhood. It was replaced by the Cooper Union Engineering Building, which itself was replace by a 13-story new glass facade building in 2013.

The NoHo Historic District was designated by the New York City Landmarks Preservation Commission (LPC) on June 29, 1999, with the NoHo East Historic District designated in 2003 and expansions to the original district boundaries approved in 2008. This virtual walking tour features 25 buildings within the approximately 130-building original NoHo Historic District, in celebration of its 25th anniversary. The highlighted buildings represent the range of construction periods and array of building types, styles, and uses that occur throughout the district. We encourage you to explore this fascinating stretch of Manhattan virtually, or to use this tour as a jumping-off point as you take your own walk through the historic district! The three-part tour is organized by phases of development, based upon the same categories found within the LPC NoHo Designation Report. Part II includes buildings constructed in the 1870s and 1880s: Cast-Iron-Fronted Buildings in NoHo (Cont'd.) a) 7-9 Bond Street b) 622-624 and 626 Broadway (aka 156-158 Crosby Street) Post-Civil War Expansion c) 10-20 Astor Place (aka 444 Lafayette Street) d) 668-674 Broadway, the Brooks Brothers Store Commercial Development in the 1880s e) 393-399 Lafayette Street (aka 21-23 East 4th Street), De Vinne Press Building f) 628-630 Broadway (aka 160-164 Crosby Street), The New York Mercantile Exchange g) 644-646 Broadway (aka 71-73 Bleecker Street) h) 9 Great Jones Street i) 687-691 Broadway (aka 250-254 Mercer Street) \-- To return to Part I of the tour, click here. To progress to Part III of the tour, click here.

This is the location that the Fire Patrol moved to when it vacated 31 Great Jones Street. This new location is the 5th and last built for the Patrol. Constructed in 1907 and designed by architect Franklin Baylies, it has an immediately recognizable classic-firehouse look. The Patrol stayed in that building for almost a hundred years, saving damaged goods and chugging along as the only insurance supported salvage company. The Fire Patrol was suddenly disbanded in 2006 and the building put up for sale, sparking Village Preservation to seek to landmark it as quickly as possible. In 2010 news anchor Anderson Cooper bought the building, but lucky for us, he kept the character of it intact while renovating it to fit the needs of a private residence

"Taken from above and across Broadway of Grace Church in the snow at 11th Street with adjacent courtyard and parish house," 1902.

Amid the cast-iron facades of commercial and converted residential buildings between Broadway and University Place in the Village resides a large brick and brownstone institutional building. With its Police Athletic League (PAL) banners and Police Department signage over the door, it looks like it could have been an old station house re-purposed for PAL uses. In fact, this building on East 12th Street between University Place and Broadway is one of the city’s oldest surviving school structures and was the workplace of one of the pioneers of higher education for women.

Peter Cooper monument, Cooper Square, ca. 1975. This bronze statue, enthroned under a marble and granite pedestal and canopy, was designed by Augustus Saint-Gardens in collaboration with Stanford White. Completed in 1894 and unveiled in 1897, this collaborative design reflects an inspired synthesis of the two artistic disciplines characterizing the Beaux-Arts tradition. Saint-Gardens, a student at this institution offering free instruction in the sciences and art, admired its heroic founder and chose to memorialize his legacy as an American industrialist, inventor, and philanthropist. After years of wear to the bronze patina and marble from corrosion, oxidation, cracks, pigeon droppings, and vandalism, MAS led the original restoration in 1987 with a grant from Cooper Union, 20th Century Fox Foundation, and Con Edison.

Caffe Reggio, date unknown. This South Village mainstay opened in 1927 and its original owner, Domenico Parisi, spent his life savings of $1,000 to purchase their 1902 espresso machine. They claim to be the first coffee shop in the United States to serve Italian Cappuccino. According to a 1945 New York Herald Tribune article, "Dominic's Espresso machine is a shining Gargantua equipped with many spigots, filled with hot water and steam, which makes a cup of coffee in just about three seconds... A visit to the Caffe Reggio is an experience worth having." This spot was also one of the many locations in Greenwich Village where a young Bob Dylan played in the 1960s.

The Hotel Grosvenor Apartments were constructed in 1926 on the site of the 1876 Grosvenor Hotel. The original hotel was one of the earliest businesses in the fashionable mansion district.

2 Fifth Avenue visible above MacDougal Alley, ca. 1955. Designed by the firm of Emery Roth Sons for the developer Samuel Rudin between 1951 and 1952, 2 Fifth Avenue is a massive 353-apartment building. The major portion of the structure is the large 20-story white-glazed brick building (visible in this photograph). At the south end of the lot the building faces Washington Square Park, and it was designed to complement the low rise structures that face the park. 2 Fifth Avenue here is a five-story red brick building that works with the 19th century mansions that sit to its west. The building has been the home of a number of well-known New Yorkers including former Mayor Ed Koch and writer and activist Larry Kramer. The pair had an acrimonious relationship, as Koch was mayor for the first decade of the AIDS epidemic and his failure to act had serious repercussions for the gay community.

Cooper Union for the Advancement of Science and Arts was founded in 1859. The institution began as a night school hosting courses in architectural drafting and the applied sciences, also hosting day-time classes in the Female School of Design instructing women in then-new technologies such as photography, telegraph, and typewriting. Peter Cooper's humble beginnings inspired a pedagogical model that offered working-class men and women upward mobility, at the same time instilling a sense of social responsibility that would create highly active citizens.

Washington Square Arch, ca. 1961. Clipping on the back of the photograph is entitled, "Guarding Washington Square Fountain Yesterday." The caption reads: "Police surround fountain in Washington Square to prevent troubadours from singing.

59 Copper Square, ca. 1975 Completed in 1867 by the architect Carl Pfeiffer, the French Second Empire building was constructed for the Metropolitan Savings Bank. The corner plot has two impressive facades, which, given the width of Cooper Square and the open plaza across the intersection, can "be advantageously viewed at the same time," (according to the 1969 LPC designation report). In 1937 the building was sold to the First Ukrainian Evangelical Pentecostal Church, a Ukrainian-language parish. In 1960, though a merger, the church became the First Ukrainian Assembly of God, which it remains today.

Cafe Wha? ca. 1933. The cafe and theater has a rich history. Built in 1907, it is one of the oldest Off-Broadway venues still in operation. It was originally used to house horses but was converted into a theater in the 1958. The Players Theatre contains a main stage with more than 200 seats and a 50-seat black box theatre as well as four rehearsal rooms. According to the South Village Historic District Designation Report, “Gene Frankel directed and held theatre workshops at the Players Theater from 1959 to at least 1968. The Café Wha? has occupied part of the building since the 1950s except for a period when it was replaced by the Café Feenjon. Bob Dylan, Peter, Paul & Mary, Jimi Hendrix, Janis Joplin, Bruce Springsteen, Richard Pryor, and Bill Cosby are among the performers who played the Café Wha?” Players Theatre has hosted a large number of off-Broadway productions since opening its doors. Most notably in the early 1990s, Natalie Portman starred in the musical Ruthless, in which Britney Spears also participated as an understudy. An archive of every production at the theater can be found here.

East 9th Street. Street Bridge, Wanamaker Building, 1923. Called the "Bridge of Progress" this sky bridge connected the 1862 Stewart department store building (which became a Wanamaker store in 1896) and the 1907 Wanamaker "Annex" Building between 8th and 9th Streets. These two buildings were lavish shopping destinations for the first half of the 20th century. In 1954 the store closed and the older north building was set to be demolished but the interior and sky bridge were first destroyed by a fire 1956.

The Brevoort Hotel and "Mark Twain House" on Fifth Avenue, between 8th and 9th Streets, October 24, 1935. Berenice Abbott’s 1935 photo captures lower Fifth Avenue in its waning days as a boulevard of the stately townhouses. The 27-story apartment building at 1 Fifth Avenue (extreme right) is a harbinger of the developments to come. The corner townhouse at left was known as the “Mark Twain House,” but its historical significance long predates the author’s brief residence in the winter of 1904 (or 1906, sources differ). The house — called “one of the most architecturally notable houses in all New York” in the 1969 Greenwich Village Historic District Designation Report — was built by architect James Renwick Jr. for his family’s estate. The light-colored building at right (actually a set of multiple townhouses connected by a shared cornice) is the Brevoort Hotel, named for Henry Brevoort, Sr., the owner of a large farm north of 9th Street that predated Greenwich Village development. Brevoort, a vehement opponent of the grid plan, successfully persuaded the city to bend Broadway at Tenth Street to accommodate his property. In 1953, the entire block was razed for the construction of the Brevoort superblock apartment building.

The three townhouses combined to form the new museum building.

Washington Square Arch with No. 1 Fifth Avenue behind. March 3, 1929. The Washington Square Arch, a Tuckahoe marble triumphal arch designed by Stanford White, commemorates the centennial of George Washington’s inauguration as President. William Rhinelander Stewart, a Washington Square resident, had erected a wood and plaster arch in 1889. After Stewart’s temporary tribute proved popular, White was commissioned to design a permanent monument, which was completed in 1892. The arch includes a little-used 102-step spiral staircase inside its western end, leading to an skylit attic room and rooftop.

659 Broadway, ca. 1980. No. 657-659 was built in the late 1860s, to designs by architect Griffith Thomas. Like other buildings along this stretch of Broadway — many of which are also attributed to Thomas — No. 657-659's large block-through lofts were used by manufacturing companies, before conversion to residential in the latter 20th century. While a fire in February 1979 caused extensive damage to Nos. 643-655 to the south, this building was relatively unscathed.

Since 1898, Engine Co. 33 has occupied this building, designed by famed New York City architects Ernest Flagg and W.B. Chambers. The stunning French Beaux-Arts styled facade immediately grabs the attention of passersby, which still features the classic red doors, central windows, and grand archways characteristic of firehouses. The building’s landmark designation report, written in 1968, says: “This utilitarian building has a flamboyance that is particularly appropriate to the function of the hazardous profession engaged in by its occupants.”

Washington Square Arch with 2 Fifth Avenue (left) and 1 Fifth Avenue (right) visible in the background, ca. 1955.

Jones Diner, ca. 1980. Perhaps the epitome of a New York greasy spoon, the Jones Diner was a neighborhood landmark for more than 60 years. Opened in 1938, it was the popular breakfast and lunch spot for the workers that toiled in the nearby buildings filled with garment shops, small factories, and machine shops. Until the diner closed in 2002 it still served a $3 breakfast meal (juice included)! After a six-year lawsuit was settled in early 2002, the diner's owners agreed to close in September of that year and the landlords agreed to waive $217,000 in rent. The building and the land became a flash point for community advocacy and historic preservation. The community (and community board) wanted the diner included in the design for a new restaurant building to be constructed for the Chelsea staple Cafeteria. Cafeteria stated they were not able to include the single story structure in their plans. A NoHo Historic District had been designated in 1999, but it would stop at Lafayette, despite the the original proposal which had the the district extending east to the Bowery. The Jones Diner would be demolished but Cafeteria did not build its restaurant. The lot would remain largely empty and under construction scaffolding with a thin concrete building rising around 2010 but remaining unfinished. The planned hotel was never completed and in 2016 a new design and construction for an 11-story condo building was undertaken.

Provincetown Playhouse, December 29, 1936. The Provincetown Players were began as a casual performance event put on by a group of writers and friends in the bohemian summer spot of Provincetown, Massachusetts. After two seasons in New England, the group officially organized and moved to New York City to present a season of theatre. They originally performed in a space in 139 MacDougal Street. In 1918 the group converted a former bottling plant into a theatre, known from then on as the Provincetown Playhouse. The original players included Eugene O’Neill, Edna St. Vincent Millay and Djuna Barnes. After the 1923 season, the Players formally disbanded, though there were a number of related associates who attempted to produce work under the name through the 1920s. The building that once housed the theatre was purchased by NYU and in 2008 they attempted to demolish the building for a new law school facility. After much community push back, they agreed to preserve the facade and a small section of the interior theatre walls (though a local preservation group has accused the school was breaking this agreement in regard to the interior features).

Giuseppe Garibaldi monument, Washington Square Park, ca. 1975.

Hotel Earle, ca. 1902-08. Named for its owner, Earle L’Amoreaux, the slim, eight-story Hotel Earle went up on Waverly Place, just west of Washington Square, in 1902. Six years later, L’Amoreaux expanded the hotel by building an identical tower next door. In 1917, he added an additional floor and connected to a further adjoining building at the corner of Macdougal Street. As Washington Square and Greenwich Village transition from an elite enclave to a Bohemian district, many notable artists were either guests or residents, including Ernest Hemingway, Dylan Thomas, and Bob Dylan. In 1986, the Earle was renamed the Washington Square Hotel.

63 Fourth Avenue Building Date: Mid-19th c./1927 alt. Original Use : Residential Original Owner : Unknown Original Architect : Unknown Description & Building Alterations Lot 13 is a modern style building with a light panel design. Although the current building’s construction date is unknown, an alteration permit indicates it was used as a store and dwelling in 1927. Permits issued in 1954 and 1955 suggest that the building mainly consisted of stores and showrooms.

Lafayette Hotel, February 3, 1937. The Lafayette Hotel consisted of three historic townhouses which functioned as the hotel (first at the Martin Hotel, then the Lafayette) from the 1880s until 1953 when they were demolished. During and after the First World War, the hotel became a favorite gathering location for airmen (both American and French stationed in New York). The owner of the Lafayette, Raymond Orteig, was the person who offered up the prize money for the first trans-Atlantic flight, won by Charles Lindbergh in 1927. The ground floor cafe was a well-known spot for writers and artists of the bohemian movement. The building was depicted not only by Berenice Abbott in this photograph by also by painter John Sloan.

Washington Square Park, April 16, 1936. What today might be a scene of benches covered in lodging students, a dog park, and buskers trying to make a dime, was once a potters field. In 1797, New York City bought a plot of land that had once been a farm to create a potter’s field—a burial ground for the indigent, poor, criminals, and victims of epidemic. Occupying what is now the eastern two-thirds of the park, the burial grounds remained open for more than 30 years. The area also hosted a hangman's gallows used by a nearby prison. By the 1810s the potter's field had largely been filled to its capacity (unsurprising with yellow fever epidemics in 1797, 1798, 1801, and 1803). Burial spaces for the Cedar Street and Pearl Street Presbyterian churches were also located nearby in the early 19th century. In 1827 the area was declared a public square and over the next century became the park as we know it today.

33-37 Bleecker Street, ca. 1980.

39 Fifth Avenue ca. 1923 Emery Roth designed this 14-story apartment building, his first in Greenwich Village, in 1922. It was the first of many of the larger apartment houses which would line this part of Fifth Avenue, typically replacing the 19th-century mansions which originally lined the thoroughfare. It is clad in Flemish bond brick and is restrained in its ornament with the exception of the multi-colored terra-cotta loggias at the third and the eleventh and twelfth floors.

The Renwick, 808 Broadway, ca. 1978. Named for James Renwick, Jr., the celebrated architect of Grace Church, this mixed-use Gothic Revival building was designed by Renwick’s firm — Renwick, Aspinwall & Russell — in 1887. Renwick himself is unlikely to have been involved in the design, which features repeated arch motifs echoing the facade of Grace Church next door. Over the years, the Renwick’s tenants included a variety of clothiers and manufacturers of consumer goods, with a storefront available at street level (in recent years it has been occupied by a Halloween-themed costume store). In 1981, the building was converted for residential use.

120 West 3rd Street African Free School No. 3, 120 West 3rd Street (formerly 120 Amity Street): This is the former location of African Free School No. 3, one of seven schools dedicated to the education of the children of free and enslaved blacks in the late 18th and early 19th centuries. The first African Free School was the very first school for blacks in America. The African Free School Institution was founded in 1787 by members of the New York Manumission Society, an organization devoted to the full abolition of African slavery. At the time of its creation, many African residents in the city were still slaves. The mission of the institution was to empower young black people and educate them on something other than slavery, which was a complicated and bold proposition for the time. In 1785 the Society worked to pass a New York State law prohibiting the sale of slaves imported into the state. This preceded the national law prohibiting slave trade, passed in 1808. The 1783 New York law also lessened restrictions on the manumission of enslaved Africans. In New York, a gradual emancipation law was passed in 1799, which provided that children of enslaved mothers would be born free. However, long periods of indentured servitude were required; 28 years for men and 25 for women. Existing slaves were eventually freed until the last slaves were freed in 1827. The first African Free School, a one-room school house located in lower Manhattan, was established in 1794 and held about 40 students. Here, the children of both free and enslaved blacks were taught reading, writing, arithmetic, and geography. Boys were also taught astronomy, a skill required of seamen, and girls were taught sewing and knitting. After a fire destroyed the original building, a second school was opened in 1815 and held 500 students. African Free School No. 2, located on Mulberry Street, was Alma mater to abolitionist and educator Henry Highland Garnet. African Free School No. 3 was established on 19th Street near 6th Avenue, however, after objections from whites in the area, it was relocated to 120 Amity Street (now known as 120 West 3rd Street). By 1834 the seven existing African Free Schools, with enrollment surpassing a thousand students, had been absorbed into the public school system.

Robbins & Appleton Building, ca. 1980. The original 1871 Robbins & Appleton building at 1 Bond Street was destroyed in a massive fire in 1877. The six-story watch company headquarters and factory was a complete loss, but the company rehired the building's architect, Stephen D. Hatch, to rebuild the cast-iron fronted, mansard-roofed structure. The watch company moved out of the building in 1892 enacting a peculiar leaving ritual. Because they worked with gold in the manufacturing of the watches, after vacating the space, they hired a salvage firm to remove and burn all of the wood interior features. After processing the ash through a chemical wash the result was more than $65,000 in gold. The building's tenants for most of the 20th century were garment manufacturers. In the mid 1970s artists began moving into the large loft-style spaces and the building was converted to co-ops in 1989.

West side of Broadway from Bleecker Street to Bond Street. (No. 647 is the second building from the left), date unknown. The building at no. 647 was originally the Coleman House Hotel. In the late 1850s and early 1860s, the vault of the basement housed a Rathskeller-like beer and wine cellar restaurant called Pfaff’s; it was a favorite haunt of the bohemian literary set, including Henry Clapp, Jr (editor of the Saturday Press and "King of Bohemia") and Walt Whitman. It was known as a place where men could meet other men, and it was open to women at a time when the sexes did not meet in such public company. The saloon closed in this location in 1864 though it would move to various other buildings though much of the rest of the 19th century. This building's later tenants included a hat shop and an envelope factory. Today the original building still stands with a shoe store in the first floor retail space and a newly opened cellar bar that takes inspiration from its 19th century predecessor.

The Rhinelander House, Washington Square North, January 1950. Built for William C. Rhinelander in 1940, the Greek Revival mansion at Washington Square North and Fifth Avenue became a preservation flashpoint after the Rhinelander Real Estate Company sold the property for development in 1944. After a half-decade in limbo, the house was demolished in 1951, over the objections of the nascent Washington Square Committee, formed in January 1950. Today, the nineteen-story 2 Fifth Avenue stands on the site.

Located in the NoHo Historic District, this full block building at 770 Broadway was built in the Renaissance Revival style and was originally home to the department store, Wanamaker’s and its warehouse when this stretch of Broadway was a bustling commercial center at the beginning of the 20th century.

Man playing chess in Washington Square Park; unknown date.

52 West 9th Street ca. 1933 52 West 9th Street has a rather unusual studio window. According to the designation report for the Greenwich Village Historic District, this house was built in 1848 for physician Austin Sherman. But the unusual studio renovation took place some time in the early 20th century. Here the studio is not only unusually high (seemingly a nearly double-height space), but is recessed enough to supply a balcony with a balustrade for the lucky resident.

Most of us remember the famous line from Alfred Hitchcock’s 1954 thriller, Rear Window, “Meet me in the bar at the Albert Hotel,” delivered hauntingly by Jimmy Stewart to Raymond Burr. Today the building is a co-op complex comprised of four distinct structures functioning as a single entity and occupying the entire blockfront of University Place between East 10th Street and East 11th Street. The oldest of the buildings dates back to the 1870s, while another section was built by one of New York’s greatest and most celebrated architects. Collectively, the four buildings of the Albert Hotel have hosted a nearly unrivaled list of historically significant figures over the years. In 2012 the complex was listed on the New York State and National Registers of Historic Places — a largely honorific designation.

Provincetown Playhouse ca. 1936 The Provincetown Playhouse, which launched the theatrical career of Eugene O’Neill, was at the heart of pre-World War I Greenwich Village bohemia. The Playhouse had special significance for Abbott, who had left Ohio in 1918 to live at 137 MacDougal Street with her two college friends, who had moved to New York to join the Provincetown Players. Although Abbott’s photograph appears spontaneous — with a dapper young man in the doorway and an elderly passerby reacting to an off-camera occurrence — a variant shows that Abbott shot more than one “take.” In the discarded version, the young man sports a derby, and the overflowing garbage can has been removed. The Playhouse closed shortly after the stock market crash but reopened in 1936 under the aegis of the WPA Federal Theater Project. Rebuilt in 1941, it had a vigorous second life before closing again in the 1980s.

Schermerhorn Building ARCHITECT: Henry J. Hardenbergh DATE: 1888-89 The 376-380 Lafayette Street Building is one of the truly outstanding manufacturing buildings of the late 19th century in the City. Particular artistry is evident in its careful massing and in the color of its ornamental brick and sandstone detail. These qualities of design were unusual for a building of this type at this time. It has a distinctive arrangement of windows and it is one of the outstanding loft buildings in the City.

Cooper Union This building was specially designed to house Peter Cooper's great philanthropy- a trade school for boys in New York who could not otherwise afford such specialized training. It is notable for the early use of rolled-iron sections produced by Cooper, Hewitt & Co. at Trenton Jersey- Cooper's own rolling mills. Cooper put off the completion of the school to roll beams for Astor's new library on Lafayette Street and for Harper & Brothers' publishing house on Franklin Square.

Salmagundi Club ca. 1965 As written in the designation report, the four-and-a-half story Italianate style building at 47 Fifth Avenue was constructed in 1852-1853 for Irad Hawley, the president of the Pennsylvania Coal Company, which had yards along the Hudson River in the West Village. The building’s arresting entrance, up a flight of wide steps, is framed in original stone ornament and flanked by French doors that open onto cast-iron balconies. And, the report indicates, the inside is no less stunning. The first floor of the building showcases Italianate-style carved marble chimney pieces, rose wood doors, and an arcaded Corinthian screen dividing the front and back parlors. The dining room features elements of the Gothic Revival style and is one of the few remaining interiors in New York to do so. The Salmagundi Club, by 1969, was one-of-a-kind, the last architectural relic of the swath of mid-nineteenth century Anglo-Italianate brownstone mansions that once lined the lower portion of Fifth Avenue. Its dignified, former northern neighbors at 49 and 51 Fifth Avenue were razed to make way for a 19-story apartment building, built-in 1929 by Thomas W. Lamb, but the Salmagundi Club stayed put. Beyond the architectural significance of 47 Fifth Avenue, the designation report cites the building’s cultural significance as a key reason for its designation. The Salmagundi Club, before moving into its longtime home, was organized in 1871 for the “the promotion of social intercourse among artists and the advancement of the art” and named for the “Salmagundi Papers,” a satirical magazine published by short-story writer Washington Irving in which he coined the term “Gotham.” The Club purchased the grand Fifth Avenue mansion in 1917, and has resided there ever since. The designation report credits the maintenance of the historic building to the club, which had been, and continues to be, a reliable and generous steward. Notable members of the Club include illustrators Edwin Abbey, N.C. Wyeth, and Howard Pyle; Impressionist painters William Merritt Chase and Childe Hassam; Arts and Crafts pioneer John LaFarge; designer Louis C. Tiffany; Hudson River School artist Thomas Moran; and architect Stanford White. But that’s not all there is to celebrate today. The building is not only a historic cross-section of Fifth Avenue history and an esteemed center of orbit in the city’s art world. It is noteworthy also as one of the first individual landmarks named and protected by the city. The designation report is a mere page long, absolutely minuscule compared to the over 50-page reports put together today, but it set a crucial precedent in New York City’s landmarking process. And, from April 1, 1982 until 1999, Village Preservation’s offices were located in the building’s attic!

31 Great Jones Street ca 1887 Built in 1871 and designed by architect W.E. Waring, this firehouse… wasn’t exactly a firehouse. In 1835 the Association of Fire Insurance Companies formed a group called the New York Fire Patrol. This group wasn’t responsible for extinguishing fires, but rather for salvaging valuables and minimizing the damage to the building itself once the fire had been fought. The Patrol existed before the creation of the unified fire department and continued to operate after its formation, so its functions have changed over the years. This became their Fire Patrol House No. 2. Funnily enough, the property next door at 33 Great Jones was purchased by Willcox & Gibbs Sewing Machine Company and their designer, Charles Wright, created an exact replica of the firehouse building next door. Fire Patrol No. 2 left No. 31 in 1907 for a new location (see 84 West 3rd Street, below), and now an upscale restaurant by the name of Vic’s occupies the ground floor.

Village Preservation would like to satisfy your cravings for hauntings. Preserving the Village not only means maintaining the old buildings and historic landscapes but sometimes also the domiciles of the dearly departed. We have put together a list of some of the most haunted historical places in the Village that will hopefully facilitate both engagement with the neighborhood’s history and encounters with the otherworldly. History buffs beware, you’re in for a scare…

In 1981, a “rare cancer” first seen in a group of gay men primarily in New York and San Francisco eventually became a widespread epidemic more accurately known as acquired immune deficiency syndrome (AIDS). This curated collection includes the residences of influential AIDS activists and artists, venues where fundraising events were held, and meeting and demonstration locations of AIDS organizations.

View up Fifth Avenue from the top of the Washington Square Arch, ca. 1908.

1 Bond Street ca. 1975 Located at 1-5 Bond Street near Broadway, the Robbins & Appleton Building is a prime example of the remarkable cast iron architecture that one can find throughout NoHo and up and down Broadway. The building is both an individual New York City landmark and included within the city’s NoHo Historic District. At street level, this building looks like many other cast-iron commercial buildings in the area, but a glance upwards reveals a striking mansard roof. Perched at the very top of the building below the central pediment is a gold clock that reflects some of the building’s history. It was in 1871 that merchants and manufacturers Henry A. Robbins and Daniel Fuller Appleton hired architect Stephen Decatur Hatch to design a new building to house their American Waltham Watch Company, which was a noted manufacturer of watches and watch cases. Located on Bond Street, this new commercial building reflected the transformation of the street from a fashionable residential enclave during the early part of the nineteenth century to a commercial and manufacturing center by the mid-to-late 1800s. Hatch’s 1871 building had a short life, as on the night of March 6, 1877 a massive fire destroyed the structure. Robbins and Appleton again sought out Hatch to create a replacement, a grand Second Empire style factory building which was constructed between 1879 and 1880. As the city’s Landmarks Preservation Commission notes, “the present building, erected two years after the fire, is a stylistic variation on the \[commercial] palace theme. Although designed by the same architect in the same style with the same façade material for the same clients as the 1871 building and retaining such features as the mansard roof, the function of the new building was different. The new building was to serve as a factory with the exception of some floor space which was leased to D. Appleton & Co., the notable book publishing firm. Lush and intricate architectural embellishment was unnecessary on a utilitarian structure such as a factory. With the exception of the ground floor, roof, and shallow end pavilions which give the building its Second Empire character—unusual for this date and probably retained at the insistence of the client—the façade consists of a single window bay unit reproduced twelve times across each of the upper four floors in disciplined regularity. The bay unit is a deeply recessed one-over-one double-hung window flanked by smooth columns with simple necking and stylized capitals carrying a shouldered arch. The strength and beauty of the building lie in the strong horizontals of the cornices above each floor and the three-dimensional quality created by the deeply recessed windows.” The American Waltham Watch company left the space by the turn of the twentieth century, replaced by a variety of small-scale manufacturing and commercial firms. Converted to residential use in the late 1980s, the building stands as a majestic anchor to the architecturally eclectic Bond Street.

Triangle Fire, March 25, 1911 When an accidental fire raced through the top three stories of the Triangle Waist Company factory in Greenwich Village, hundreds of blouse makers escaped on elevators and stairs. Others were blocked by a locked exit door or trapped on the fire escape. Firemen’s ladders could not reach them, and dozens of people jumped to their deaths. Twenty-one-year-old pipefitter Victor Joseph Gatto witnessed the fire from Washington Square Park. Over 30 years later, he painted this vivid depiction of the fire from memory. Image Info: Victor Joseph Gatto, 1944-1945, oil on canvas CREDIT: Museum of the City of New York, Gift of Mrs. Henry L. Moses, 54.75

New York University Main Building, February 1928. Constructed in 1892-1895 as the Main Building of the New York University campus replaced a previous 1835 Gothic Revival structure on the site. Alfred Zucker, the German born architect of the building retained the foundation and a number of elements of the early structure. The impetus for this new building was perhaps less pedagogical than one might imagine. According to the AIA Guide the new building was constructed to accommodate a well paying tenant, the American Bank Note Company. That firm occupied the lower seven floors while the upper floors were used as the main administrative offices and the schools of law, commerce and pedagogy. Following the end of the First World War, the increase in student body necessitated the school taking over the entirely of the building. In 2002 a bequest of $150 million by Julius Silver, a College of Arts and Science alumnus, prompted the building to be renamed the Silver Center for Arts and Science.

Fleischmann’s Vienna Model Bakery, Broadway and 10th Street, 1898. Sometime after 1876, Louis Fleischmann built his bakery on Broadway, in the shadow on James Renwick’s Grace Church (left). The bakery, which sold a popular “new dough” style of bread made with yeast, also operated a restaurant and rented storefront space to other vendors. Beyond baking technique, Louis Fleischmann’s influence endures in an evocative turn of phrase: the bread line. Noticing the indigent New Yorkers who gathered near the bakery, Fleischmann instituted a practice whereby the bakery would give away its unsold loaves at the close of business. When hungry men lined up for their daily loaves, the phrase was born. Fleischmann’s Broadway bakery remained open until 1908, when the property was razed, having been acquired by Grace Church. Today, the Fleischmann name lives on in a brand of baker’s yeast available in supermarkets.

Alamo Sculpture, ca. 1980. The Alamo, also called the Astor Place Cube or just The Cube is an eight-foot-square cube mounted on one corner that sits in Astor Place and has become an icon of the neighborhood. Created by artist Bernard (Tony) Rosenthal and installed in 1967, the work was originally a temporary piece in the outdoor art show called "Sculpture and the Environment" organized by the New York City Department of Cultural Affairs. It was so popular that citizens petitioned the city to allow it to remain. Spinning the Cube (which takes more than one person) has become a sort of token New York City experience. The Cube was placed in storage between 2015 and 2016 during the reconstruction of Astor Place. It made a triumphant return in November of 2016 as the centerpiece of a new, permanent, pedestrian plaza.

The painter and writer Jack Dowling, at the Ninth Avenue station of the Third Avenue El, near Cooper Union; 1953. Dowling graduated from Cooper Union in 1957 before going abroad to teach and paint in Italy. In the mid-1960s, Dowling began to gain recognition in New York's art scene. In 1971, after losing the lease to the East Village loft where he lived and worked, Dowling moved into the Westbeth Artists Housing complex, where he later directed the in-house gallery.

A hot spot for writers and artists, this bar is credited as an important incubator of the Abstract Expressionist movement in the mid century. The Cedar Street Bar first opened in 1866 on (unsurprisingly) Cedar Street in lower Manhattan. After nearly a century and a number of moves further uptown, in 1964 the bar relocated to 82 University Place (seen here) after its venue a few blocks to the south was demolished for apartment buildings. While at its previous location at 24 University Place (1945-1964) the Cedar Tavern became a popular watering hole for many Abstract Expressionists. Artist Robert Motherwell held weekly salons in his nearby studio and this was the closed spot for a drink after the meetings. This group of patrons included Jackson Pollock, Willem de Kooning, Mark Rothko, Franz Kline, Michael Goldberg, Landes Lewitin, Aristodimos Kaldis, and others of the New York School of Abstract Expressionists. Beat Generation writers and artists, including Allen Ginsberg, Jack Kerouac, and Bob Dylan, also frequented Cedar Tavern. The 82 University Place location closed in 2006 and its century-old, 50-foot mahogany bar was sold and transported to a bar in Austin, Texas.

Grace Church at night, ca. 1975. Grace Church was first organized in 1805, and they built a church at Broadway and Rector Street three years later. The parish moved uptown in 1843. They commissioned 24-year-old James Renwick Jr.—in his first major work—to design their new edifice. The cornerstone of the French Gothic Revival masterpiece was laid in 1843, and the church was consecrated in 1846. The stone of the church was Sing Sing marble (cut by inmates of the infamous prison). At the time of completion, the steeple was built of plain wood (a cost saving measure). They also used plaster and lath (and not cut stone) for some of the interiors—it was quite the scandal! Over the next few decades, through the generous support of various congregants, most notably philanthropist Catharine Lorillard Wolfe, the church complex was expanded. The new features included a beautiful stained glass East Window (1878), a small chapel next to the church (1879), and a stone spire (1883). Additions and updates continued into the early 20th century. In the second half of the 19th century, the church was one of New York's most fashionable. Minister and author Matthew Hale Smith wrote in 1869 that, "To be married or buried within its walls has been ever considered the height of felicity." Pews within the society church were traditionally rented at a premium, though this practice was abolished in the 1960s. According to the Municipal Art Society, it is "one of the few buildings in New York that closes a vista." Visible from far south on Broadway and prominent at its location where Broadway begins its path northwestward, the church is one of the most significant examples of Gothic Revival architecture in America. It underwent a multi-million dollar rehabilitation project in the mid-1990s which focused on the restoration of crumbling marble exterior and the stained glass windows.

Temporary staircases for buildings along Fourth Avenue, June 5, 1906. Stations between City Hall and and 33rd Street on the IRT Lexington Avenue line opened in October, 1904. In this photo 1906 photo, it’s unclear what work is being done, though the placement of the wooden stairways suggests sidewalk work.

Townhouses on West 10th Street, October 11, 1940. (Note the growth of the tree in front of No. 17!)

Bayard Condict Building ARCHITECT: Louis Sullivan; Lyndon P. Smith DATE: 1897-99 STYLE: Terra-cotta The Bayard-Condict Building is the only building in New York City designed by Louis H. Sullivan, one of America’s greatest and most influential architects. It is the first truly modern skyscraper in New York. It expresses its structural components in the manner of the Chicago School. The vertical design is a poetic expression of Sullivan’s theory of the skyscraper as a “proud and soaring thing.” It is distinguished by Sullivan’s exuberant ornament of an organic foliate nature which complements the structural innovations of the building. The terra-cotta curtain wall was unique at that time in New York.

The Astor Library opened to the public in 1854, and in 1895 consolidated with the Lenox Library and the Tilden Foundation to become the New York Public Library (NYPL). During this time, its building was expanded twice, in 1859 and 1881. In 1898, the Astor Library became part of the new public library at 42nd Street. Subsequently, the Hebrew Immigrant Aid Society purchased the building to use it as a "receiving station, aid center, dormitory, and synagogue for thousands of newly arrived immigrants." (Christopher Gray in the New York Times) In this iteration, the stacks were removed and the interior was largely reworked by architect Benjamin Levitam. The building was sold once more, in 1965, and just as the developer who bought the structure planned for demolition, it was saved by the newly established Landmarks Preservation Commission. The Commission arranged for the producer of the New York Shakespeare Festival, Joseph Papp, to step in to purchase the building. And thus, the present-day program for the building was born. Aside from major interior reimaginations, the building's front stoop, as the 1875 photo above shows, was restored (though with considerable stylistic difference), to re-establish the connection between Lafayette Street and the building entrance.

Old Merchant’s House ARCHITECT: Unknown DATE: 1831-32 STYLE: Federal The building has existed for 130 years in its original state, inside and out. The house is a unique document of its period; it shows with unrivaled authenticity how a prosperous merchant of the 1830’s lived. In addition, the building is a fine example of New York architecture of the late Federal period. It has been given national landmark status through its designation by the National Park Service of the U.S Department of the Interior.

8 and 10 West 8th Street. This pair was building in 1838 (along with nos. 12 and 14 to the east). In 1914, Gertrude Vanderbilt Whitney turned 8 West 8th Street into the Whitney Studio Gallery. In 1931, she turned nos. 8,10, and 12 into the first home of the newly established Whitney Museum.

Washington Square Art Show; ca. 1950.

200 East 5th Street Building Date : 1983 Original Use : Residential Original Owner : Cooper Square Hospital Development Fund Original Architect : Shuman, Lichtenstein, Climan & Efron Description & Building Alterations This building was constructed in 1983 and was designed by architects Schuman, Lichtenstein, Climan & Efron. It was the former site of the Five Spot club, a divey neighborhood bar founded in the 1930s that attracted writers and artists living nearby: Williem de Kooning, Alfred Leslie, Larry Rivers, Franz Kline, Howard Kanovitz, Grace Hartigan, David Smith, Frank O’Hara, Allen Ginsberg, and Kenneth Koch, among others. It became one of the world’s premiere jazz clubs in the 1950s, at which point it featured John Coltrane, Eric Dolphy, Thelonious Monk, Charles Mingus, Sonny Rollins, Ornette Coleman, and Billie Holiday. The club needed more space and moved to 2 St. Mark’s Place in 1962.

The University Place Presbyterian Church was officially established in 1845 by members of the Duane Street Presbyterian Church who wished for a community further uptown. With more than $60,000 in donations (or subscriptions), the new parish purchased a plot at the corner of University Place and 10th Street from the managers of Sailors' Snug Harbor who owned this and much of the surrounding acreage. The parish commissioned famed architect Richard Upjohn to design their new home. Rendered in an English Gothic style with soaring spire, the church was dedicated in June 1845. In the ensuing decades, the once wealthy surrounding neighborhood began to decline as well-to-do New Yorkers moved further uptown. The church merged with Mercer Street Church in 1870 while continuing to use this edifice. Further financial struggles due to declining membership necessitated the 1918 merger of this church and the Madison Square Presbyterian into the nearby Old First Presbyterian Church on Fifth Avenue and 12th Street. In 1927 the old church was razed and in its place, the Devonshire House, a 14-story apartment building, was erected the following year.

The Sinclair Building, March 2, 1955. Named for the Sinclair House, a hotel that occupied this site as early as 1840, the Sinclair office building was built in 1908 by architect W.H. Gompert. The building was converted for residential use in 1980. At the corner, an entrance to the 8th Street station of the BMT Broadway line is visible.

LaGrange Terrace (Colonnade Row), ca. 1890. LaGrange Terrace, a set of nine colonnade-fronted Greek revival townhouses, was built in the early 1830s on land owned by John Jacob Astor. At the time, Lafayette Place was a short, cobblestoned street between Great Jones and Art (later Astor Place) Streets, adjacent to the Vauxhall Gardens pleasure garden and theatre. Astor’s residences attracted member’s of New York’s upper crust: members of the Vanderbilt and Delano families owned homes, as did Washington Irving and Astor, himself. LaGrange Terrace remained a fashionable address through the 1870s, by which time the wealthiest New Yorkers had begun to decamp for parts uptown. Five of the townhouses were later demolished. While the 20th century has seen Astor’s development continue to deteriorate, the surviving houses were designated New York City Landmark in 1965.

Gerstenzang Brothers was an artificial flower factory run by Louis and Abraham Gerstenzang located at 670 Broadway. The company created flowers for millineries throughout the city as well as fruits, vegetables, and feathers. The American Gas Engineering Journal showcased the factory for its excellent use of gas. Boilers in various rooms turned rolls of cotton into ornament, steam was used to dye feathers, and gas-fed flames melted wax to coat the skin of false cherries. From a tour of the factory in 1918, a guide is quoted as saying: "We have to put the most serious-minded girls we have at the daisy table... Otherwise, they spend most of their time counting the petals mumbling, 'Loves me-loves me not."

The Village Barn, unknown date. 52 West 8th Street has a long and interesting history. From 1930 to 1967, the basement housed The Village Barn nightclub. Later, the space attracted abstract expressionist artists, such as Hans Hofmann, who hosted a series of lectures there in 1938. In 1970, Jimi Hendrix purchased the building to start Electric Lady Studios. While Hendrix only spent a few weeks recording at the studio before his death, it has since been used by many notable artists including Stevie Wonder, David Bowie, AC/DC, the Clash, and Weezer.

Peace Pentagon ca. 1934 The building at 339 Lafayette Street (officially numbered 339-345) is nicknamed the Peace Pentagon for its association with many left-wing and radical activist and political organizations. It was purchased in 1968 by the War Resisters League, the oldest secular pacifist organization in the United States. They were founded in 1923 by a group of men and women opposing World War I. In 1978, the A.J. Muste Institute bought the building. For decades they provided office space for politically congenial activist organizations, including the Granny Peace Brigade, the National Committee to Reopen the Rosenberg Case, the Socialist Party USA, Women's Pentagon Action, and Art for Social Change. In October 2015, the building was sold to a real estate holding company.

The Renwick The striking loft building at 806-808 Broadway/104-106 Fourth Avenue, which runs the entire block from Broadway to Fourth Avenue behind Grace Church at 11th Street, was designed in 1887 by James Renwick (architect of the adjacent landmarked church forty years earlier) and the partners in historic successor firm –James Lawrence Aspinwall and William Hamilton Russell, Renwick’s grand-nephew. Though a utilitarian structure housing offices, storage, and manufacturing, Renwick and partners designed it with vivid Gothic detail to serve as an appropriate backdrop to Grace Church, a New York City and National Historic Landmark. Aside from some storefront signage, the building is almost completely intact to its original design, from the gothic arches and tracery to the more robust, industrial Romanesque detailing of the Fourth Avenue façade. Both sides of the building maintain beautifully intact cast-iron storefronts, while the Broadway side boasts florid Art Noveau-style ironwork over the doorway and entry. The harmony between this structure, built as a store and manufacturing building, and one of the most delicate and important Gothic Revival structures in the United States, is nothing short of remarkable. In 1981 the building was converted to residences and renamed ‘The Renwick,’ in honor of its architect. The building gained additional notoriety with the publication of Caleb Carr’s The Alienist, in which the building serves as the headquarters for the team of investigators looking into the murders at the heart of the book’s story. The Grace Church, Grace Church Rectory, Grace Church Memorial House, The Renwick, and The Lancaster, an 1887 apartment building at 39-41 East 10th Street also designed by Renwick –all within feet of one another –provide an unrivaled example of the skill of James Renwick as an architect. The sadly recently-demolished St. Denis Hotel at Broadway and 11th Street added even further to this rich ensemble of Renwick designs added over time. While the master architect constructed other ensembles elsewhere, few if any span nearly half a century as these do, and serve such varied purposes –religious worship, residences, and commercial loft space –while maintaining such compatibility and dialogue between the pieces.

Every year millions of tourists make their way to New York City. While many of them may bypass the Village to flock to Times Square or the Statue of Liberty for a photo, there are many spots here that have gained popularity as a top spot to Instagram. Many of the popular spots draw tourists with their pleasing aesthetics. But often these traveling shutterbugs know little about the vast amount of history behind the sites. So for our many visitors, today we provide some history of some of the spots they use as a backdrop for their social media feeds.

The first European settlers arrived in modern-day New York in 1614. Twelve years later, the Dutch West India Company brought over eleven enslaved people from Africa. From the settlement of New Netherland, African Americans have played a critical role in the development of New York. In the early portion of New Netherland's history, the Dutch divided Black people into two groups: those who were enslaved, and those who were not. This division persisted until the Civil War in 1861. To southerners, a portion of this period from the 18th century to the start of the Civil War was called the "Antebellum" which means the pre-Civil War era. In the south, these years were marked by economic growth due to the reliance on slavery in the region. This period also marked the beginning of a divide between two schools of thought, those who were against slavery, the abolitionists, and those in support of slavery. This story teaches us about what that period was like for Black people in the North and specifically, in New York City. NYS Social Studies Scope and Sequence Standards: 4.7, 7.7, & 11.3. For Teachers: African American in Antebellum New York Lesson Plan

21 Fifth Avenue ca. 1933 At 21 Fifth Avenue at the southeast corner of 9th Street stood a stunning brick townhouse and a one-time residence of Mark Twain. Referred to in the Greenwich Village Historic District designation report as “one of the most architecturally notable houses in all New York,” the Romanesque Revival style home was likely designed by the noted architect James Renwick, Jr. for his parents, James and Margaret Ann (née Brevoort) Renwick. Renwick, Jr. was also the architect of Grace Church at Broadway and 10th Street in 1843. In designing his family’s home, Renwick, Jr. employed graceful round arches at the window lintels and colonette door surround. Brick corbelling at the window sills and cornice as well as ironwork at the parlor floor balcony added extra dimension to the façade. The side street elevation was equally as detailed with its peaked gable and numerous windows of varying sizes. In 1906, the noted author Mark Twain lived here when he began dictating his autobiography to his collaborator, Albert Bigelow Paine. Despite the beauty of its architecture and its link to famous figures, 21 Fifth Avenue – along with its four townhouse neighbors and the famous Hotel Brevoort to the south – was razed in the early 1950s to make way for the fourteen-story apartment building at 11 Fifth Avenue, known as the Brevoort. Paired with the Brevoort East, the apartment complex occupies the full city block bounded by Fifth Avenue, East 8th Street, University Place, and East 9th Street.

Cooper Union for the Advancement of Science and Arts was founded in 1859 by philanthropist and inventor Peter Cooper. Peter Cooper himself came from a working-class background. He hopped between various odd careers such as cabinet making, hat making, and brewing, yet through and through he was an inventor at heart. Cooper was able to purchase a glue factory in 1821. He found new ways to produce glues and other products like gelatin and isinglass from the raw materials that nearby slaughterhouses provided. This propelled Cooper into a business career in which he invented the "Tom Thumb" locomotive to navigate the hilly terrain near Baltimore, built the largest rolling-mill for railroad iron in the United States, and eventually oversaw the production of the first structural wrought-iron beams. He went on to found the Cooper Union, inspired by Paris' École Polytechnique. The institution began as a night school that hosted courses in architectural drafting and the applied sciences. The building also held day-time classes for the Female School of Design instructing women in then-new technologies such as photography, telegraph, and typewriting. Peter Cooper's humble beginnings inspired a pedagogical model that offered working-class men and women upward mobility, at the same time instilling a sense of social responsibility that would create highly active citizens. The building which the school resides in features the rolled wrought-iron beams Peter Cooper invented and produced. Another quirky feature of the structure is its round elevator shaft, which was completed prior to the invention of the elevator. Cooper believed that the elevator would soon be invented in a cylindrical shape. The Foundation Building was the tallest when it was completed in 1859 and was declared a National Historic Landmark in 1961.

H.H. Upham Company building, ca. 1975. In 1891, the H.H. Upham Company, a leading manufacturer of commercial signs, moved into its new headquarters on South Fifth Avenue (later West Broadway and LaGuardia Place). The Romanesque Revival building, designed by the Brunner & Tyron firm, features terra cotta ornamentation a bronze cartouches inscribed with the company’s founding date and the date of completion for the new structure.

77 Bleecker Street, ca. 1975.

381 Lafayette Street, date unknown. The original address of 381 Lafayette Street was 6 Lafayette Place (prior to the street being renamed in the early 20th century). The four-story, red brick building was the residence of wealthy merchant Alexander Mactier in 1939. Later the home, which once had a tall stoop, was owned by a well-known and respected surgeon, Dr. Alexander H. Stevens. As the neighborhood developed into a commercial area, the residents left and the buildings were converted into places of business. In the 1860s a Madame Ferrero sold fancy French and Italian hats to New York's wealthy ladies, and later the building was a doctor's office as well. In 1888 it was sold to The Mission of the Immaculate Virgin for the Protection of Homeless and Destitute Children. That organization erected a large neighboring residential hall at nos. 2 and 4 Lafayette Place, while no. 6 became the convent and chapel for the nuns who operated the mission home. The building underwent a renovation in 1890, adding two stories, a rear extension, and a new Northern Renaissance Revival style facade. By 1930 the large mission residence was being demolished after a decade of vacancy when most of the charity's functions were moved to Staten Island. The convent building, by now numbered 381 Lafayette Street, remained owned and used by the mission until 1965. The painted sign on the side of the building relates to its work with homeless children. The building was sold and resold in the 1960s, finally to the artist Robert Rauschenberg. No. 381 became his studio and home until his death in 2008. Today the building (which underwent a facade restoration in 2008) remains the home of the Robert Rauschenberg Foundation.

Hotel Earle ca. 1915 The Washington Square Hotel has been a haven for writers and artists for more than a century. Built in 1902 as a residential hotel named the Hotel Earle after its first owner, Earle S. L’Amoureux, the hotel occupied a single, eight-story, red brick building on Waverly Place, in the heart of Greenwich Village. In 1908, L’Amoureux built an identical connecting building to create a grand apartment hotel, complete with reading rooms, restaurant and banquet facilities. Four years later, he added a ninth floor and, in 1917, he acquired an adjoining three-story building, bringing the hotel to MacDougal Street, at the northwest corner of picturesque Washington Square. In the 1930s, Knott Hotels, one of the nation’s first hotel chains, owned and managed the Earle and advertised: American Plan from $3.50 single, $7.00 double European Plan from $2.00 single, $3.50 double The 1950s saw great change in the Village which was swiftly becoming the center of New York’s bohemian counterculture, reflected by the Beat generation who gravitated to the coffee houses and jazz clubs. The once-grand hotel began to deteriorate into a shabby apartment hotel, making it an affordable location for struggling artists, actors, writers, and musicians. Ernest Hemingway stayed at there for a few weeks in 1914, just before he went off to serve in World War I. Joan Baez, Bob Dylan, Barbra Streisand, the B-52’s, Maynard Ferguson and Bo Diddley have all been guests at the hotel. Dylan Thomas and his wife Caitlin were evicted from the Beekman Hotel after, legend has it, the management got tired of his partying and excessive demands on room service. Seeking residence close to one of his favorite bars in the Village, the Minetta Tavern, Dylan checked into the Hotel Earle. He wrote a letter to his parents in May 1950 in which he described the Earle as “right in Washington Square, a beautiful Square, which is right in the middle of Greenwich Village, the artists’ quarter of New York.” In recent years, Judy Paul and her husband Marc Garrett have renovated it to become a charming, beautiful boutique hotel. The restaurant has large picture windows overlooking Washington Square Park which bathe the room with sunlight. The restaurant serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner. On Sunday afternoons, they do a jazz brunch. A few years back, one of the breakfast waitresses asked if they’d let her perform. She gave them a demo CD to listen to. The Pauls were impressed and gave her the green light. She went on to win five Grammy Awards. That waitress was Norah Jones.

While the holiday season seems to begin earlier and earlier every year, there is a point every winter when New Yorkers know Christmas has actually begun: when the Christmas trees markets come out. But how did this practice come about? Crowding sidewalks with the smell of pine, funneling pedestrians into a gauntlet of jutting branches. The answer involves two essential elements of New York's history: immigration and capitalism.

Excavation on the newly-extended Lafayette Street, at Jones Alley, April 1, 1901. Ink annotation marks Bond Street, crossing in the foreground.

Subway Tavern, ca. 1905. The Subway Tavern was not any regular bar. Situated in a dense neighborhood, near a station of the new subway system, the tavern was created to be a moral one!? Conceived by Bishop Henry Codman Potter of the Episcopal Diocese of New York, it was meant to be a bar where "proper and gentlemanly" drinking wold occur. Staff here was empowered to monitor and guide patrons towards responsible drinking habits. Located in a former saloon (with unrestricted drinking one assumes), the Subway Tavern had a front room open to both sexes and a back room that was for men only. Patrons could have one, maybe two drinks before being cut off. Though noted in local and national news for its peculiarity, the experiment was largely a failure. The Episcopalian Church was not thrilled with their name associated with bar only a few blocks from the immorality of the Bowery. And within a year the bar was empty. (Presumably those who might have had two drinks here before moving on to a less virtuous establishment gave up the pretense and just started drinking elsewhere.) The Subway Tavern closed in 1905 and the location reopened soon after as an ‘out and out saloon,' likely making both the religious men (except for Bishop Potter) and the neighborhood imbibers much happier.

Minetta Lane and MacDougal Street, ca. 1925. Pictured at left is Minetta Tavern. The restaurant, established in 1937, is named after the lost Minetta Brook, which ran southwest from 23rd Street to the Hudson River. Along with Ernest Hemingway, Ezra Pound, Eugene O'Neill, E. E. Cummings, Dylan Thomas, and Joe Gould, the eatery has long been a favorite hangout of various artists, writers, and poets since its opening.

Washington Square Park, ca. 1975.

41 Cooper Square | Block : 462 | Lot #1 Building Date : 2009 Original Use : Institutional Original Owner : The Cooper Union Original Architect : Thom Mayne Description & Building Alterations Built in 2009 for Cooper Union, the new metal and glass building that is here now stands on the location of the old Tompkins Market Armory. In 1855, the Seventh Regiment signed an agreement with a group of butchers to share a new facility, the Tompkins Market Armory (1856-60) on a site that formerly had been occupied by a wooden market structure completed in 1830.

Washington Square Methodist Church, ca. 1972. The history of the Washington Square Methodist Church dates back to 1842 and the founding of the Sullivan Street Methodist Episcopal Church, from which the new congregation emerged. The church building on West 4th Street was designed by Charles Hadden and constructed in 1859-1860 and when the community moved into this new building, they changed their name. The Romanesque Revival building was home to the Methodist church until 2004 when the small community moved into a rented space in an NYU chapel. Known as the "Peace Church" for its anti-war advocacy, the congregation in the late 20th century was very progressive community. They welcomed LGBTQ members early on and they were led by the first openly gay clergyman (in New York and of a major major Christian denomination). Rev. Paul M. Abels served as pastor from 1973 to 1984. After selling the building, the church merger with a number of other local Methodist congregations to form Church of the Village, which meets at the former Metropolitan-Duane United Methodist Church on Seventh Avenue. The building was purchased by a real estate developer, but could not be knocked downing owing to its inclusion in a historic district. The building has been converted into condos called "Novare."

The "New" Albert Hotel refers to the last two parts of the hotel Albert complex. These were built as a 12-story extension on University Place, built 1903-04 and designed by the firm of Buchman & Fox. The final section of the Hotel Albert to be built was the 6-story neo-colonial style building located on the northeast corner of University Place and East 10th Street. It was built 1922-24, and designed by William L. Bottomly and the firm of Sugarman & Hess. Some of those writers who have stayed at the Albert (or St. Stephens) include Robert Louis Stevenson, Harte Crane, Richard Wright, Anais Nin, Diane di Prima and Leroi Jones/Amiri Baraka. Political radicals stayed at the Albert as early as 1906 including Ivan Ivanovich Norodny (chief executive commissioner of the Russian Military Revolutionary Party). John Gages, the editor of the Daily Worker, held a rally there in 1958. Many artists stayed there or gathered in the ground floor restaurant. Joseph Brody, who ran the restaurant from 1946 to 1968, hung the art of some of the many patron/artists on the walls and sponsored poetry contests; he also offered tours of the Village on a bus decoratively painted by Salvador Dali. Some of the famous musicians who spent time at the Albert during the 1960s and 70s included Jim Morrison, Carly Simon, Joni Mitchell, and James Taylor. The Mamas & the Papas wrote the hit “California Dreamin'” and Lovin’ Spoonful wrote “Do You Believe in Magic” at the Albert.

Marble House, March 20, 1936. No. 8 (the corner building) was built for John Taylor Johnston, the founding president of the Metropolitan Museum of Art. Johnston made his fortune in the railroad business. According to his obituary, he was the originator of the entire Central New Jersey Railroad system. Johnston created what was the first art gallery in NYC–to showcase his own collection– in a stable building next to his home before the Met was established. The house, which was called the first marble house in the city, was constructed in 1856 and, as a bright white building, stood out from its slightly later red brick neighbors. After his death the home was occupied by his daughter Frances for some time. She passed away in 1928 while living further uptown on Fifth Avenue. That same year the Johnstons, who had leased the land the home occupied from the Rhinelanders family, gave up the lease when the land owners planned to build an apartment building. The building never came to be as originally planned, due to the Depression. In 1936 when it was photographed, the home had been subdivided into apartments and named the Marble House. It was later occupied in part by NYU. The home and its neighbors seen here (and others unseen) were demolished in the early 1950s for the large apartment house at 2 Fifth Avenue.

James Renwick’s Gothic Revival Grace Church sits prominently at the bend of Broadway. Built in 1846, the building has all the accolades – it is a United States National Historic Landmark, New York City Landmark, and is also on the National Register of Historic Places. The building was one of the young (23 years old!) architect’s first projects. Renwick’s most well-known building, St. Patrick’s Cathedral, is among his many other notable works which include St. Bartholomew’s Church on Park Avenue in New York and the Smithsonian Institution Building in Washington, DC. Now back to the Grace Church – while the building itself has not undergone any major renovations, Grace Church School (which sits just to the east of the church) received a major subterranean addition ten years ago, affecting the land that the church sits on. At the southwest corner of the lawn in the image you see here, there is a hidden underground gymnasium two stories below, with additional staff offices and facilities for students!

De Vinne Press Building ARCHITECT: Babb, Cook & Willard DATE: 1885-86 Solid in mass and sound in construction, the architectural elements, displayed in its two fronts, have unusual cohesion and unity in their composition. The elevations display interesting contrasts of round and segmental arch windows. Particularly handsome features of this building are the three-story high deeply recessed window arches and the corner treatment (quoins) at the rounded corner of the building. The low pitched roof expressed by a brick gable-end and round-arched attic windows is a pleasing feature of this dignified commercial brick building.

Bayard-Condict Building, ca. 1970. Described in its 1974 LPC Designation Report as, "the most significant commercial building utilizing skyscraper structural techniques in New York City," the Bayard-Condict Building was both a structural and architectural modern marvel for the city. Completed in 1899, this office and loft building is the only structure constructed in New York to the designs of famed Chicago architect Louis Sullivan. Sullivan pioneered a new style of ornamentation and the idea that a building's design should reflect the structure. Here the facade can not be defined as one particular architectural style, but with his ideas on a new ornamental aesthetic, the design is organic and based on natural forms, Also the facade, entirely clad in a bright white terra cotta, has very strong verticals highlighting the steel-structural frame. The building is considered by some to be the first truly modern skyscraper in New York, completed nearly two decades before other New York architects moved on from historic precedents to build skyscrapers in the late 1920s.

Entrance to the uptown platform of the Astor Place subway station, ca. 1990.

My Archive Spring 2019

Washington Square Methodist Church ca. 1993 The Spiderwoman Theater Ensemble was launched in 1976 at this Greenwich Village church by original members and sisters Lisa Mayo, Muriel Miguel and Gloria Miguel from the Kuna and Rappahannock nations. The Spiderwoman Theater Ensemble is the oldest Native American feminist theater group in the United States, and one of the leading performing arts groups to emerge out of the New York movement, gaining national and international attention. Additionally, this ensemble is the oldest continuing feminist theater group in the United States and internationally. Their work explores the issues of gender roles, cultural stereotypes, sexual and economic oppression – sexism, racism, classism, and violence against women. Spiderwoman Theater’s unique “story-weaving” methodology infuses traditional storytelling genre with organically layered movement, text, sound, music, and visual images. This culminates in a powerful voice for indigenous women and cultural artisans. They founded the Native American Women Playwrights Archive at Miami University in Ohio where they received honorary Doctorates of Fine Arts in 1997 for their life’s work and contribution to the theater.

In celebration of the centennial of George Washington's inauguration in 1889, a temporary wood and plaster arch was erected at Washington Square. Six years later it was replaced by the present seventy-seven-foot marble structure. In 1916 another celebration of sorts was held. A group of artists led by John Sloan and Marcel Duchamp forced open the door to the stairs leading to the top of the arch and held a midwinter party to declare the secession of Greenwich Village from the United States of America. They lit Japanese lanterns, read poems, fired cap pistols, and proclaimed the independence of the state of New Bohemia.

Manhattan: Washington Square North - 5th Avenue (I) Washington Square Park,showing the center fountain with the Washington Arch in thc background,and children at play in the water. I8-22 Washington Square North,west of Fifth Avenue,are the houses in background. August 6th,I932 P.L.Sperr. No Reproductions. NEG ~~376E (2) The same,from another angle . AES ~S766 August 6th,I932 P.L.Sperr. No Reproductions. (3) The same. Augaut 6th,I932 P.L.Sperr. No Reproductions. NES~~ 3767

6-12 Lafayette Place (currently at 383 Lafayette Street). According to an 1884 article in the Times, no. 8 Lafayette (the home set back on the right) was a boarding house run by Maria Higgins. The pair of wood-frame structures survived until at least 1911 but were gone by 1916, replaced by the current 383 Lafayette Street.

My Archive Spring 2019 "Marques and Jayden at the park" —Juana Rodriguez

Entrance to the Whitney Museum When the conversion of the three houses was complete, the new Whitney Museum of American Art moved in and installed this signage an accompanying cast-aluminum eagle (still visible above the current signage for the New York Studio School). The creation of this museum was largely predicated by the Metropolitan Museum of Art's refusal of Gertrude Whitney's donation of around 500 artworks. This original museum was a modest exhibition space and director Juliana Force (a long-time friend and associate of Ms. Whitney) lived in an apartment above the galleries.

Brevoort Mansion ca. 1925 Completed in 1834, the Brevoort Mansion was an imposing Greek Revival home surrounded by gardens and commissioned by Henry Brevoort from two leading architects of the style, Ithiel Town and Alexander Jackson Davis. The mansion broke ground with several architectural innovations—a sectioned Greek key pediment and a “paneled” front façade accomplished by slightly recessing the two outer bays. It was designed as much for entertaining as for living; there was a billiard room, a library and two large parlors separated by the entrance hall. In fact, the Brevoorts set the tone for New York parties when, in 1840, they planned the first grand entertainment New York society had seen. Invitations went out in February 1840 for a bal costume, so popular in European society. It would set the pace for social events of high society for the rest of the century. Henry Brevoort died in 1848 and two years later his widow Laura sold the house to Henry De Rham for $57,000 (over $1 million today). It remained in the hands of the De Rham family until 1919, when it was sold to George F. Baker, Jr. and his wife, who toyed with the idea of restoring the old mansion for their personal use. However, by 1920 the Bakers leased the house to the Red Cross for $1 a month and by 1925 the house was slated to be destroyed to make way for the apartment house at 24 Fifth Avenue, originally built as the Fifth Avenue hotel, that still stands at the intersection today.

18 West 10th Street, June 15, 1938. Constructed in 1856 in an Italianate-style, the mansion was built for James Winslow, a wealthy New York banker. The home, four-stories above an English basement, was next door to Winlow's father-in-law and business partner, James F. D. Lanier at No. 16. The building's most striking feature was the three floor to ceiling windows at the parlor level, which matched the entranceway. The original residents only lived in the home for three years. Over the next two decades the mansion would change hands a number of times before being purchased by wealthy and retired sugar merchant Moses Lazarus in 1883. Lazarus, who was in poor health, moved in with his grown daughter, Emma. Emma Lazarus already a known poet, was surrounded by artists on the block, including painter John La Farge who lived two doors down. In 1883, after a trip to Europe, Lazarus wrote "The New Colossus," as part of the fund-raising art exhibition for the pedestal of the Statue of Liberty. Moses died in the home in 1885 and Emma left for a second trip to Europe soon thereafter. She returned to New York and the house in 1887, herself ill. She passed away in November of that year, of what is now believed to have been Hodgkin’s lymphoma. The mansion was sold to Henry B. Livingston, a wealthy scion of an old New York family, before once again passing hands through various of New York's financial elite. For the middle part of the 20th century, the largely unaltered home was occupied by attorney Charles Abrams and his wife, artist Ruth Abrams. Today the basement level has been converted into a separate residence, though the upper floors remain a single-family home.

With good reason, Missouri and Connecticut like to claim the great writer Samuel L. Clemens, a.k.a. Mark Twain, as one of their own. But New Yorkers like to claim Twain as well, and there’s plenty of cause to do so. He did have a love/hate relationship with the city, and lived here often. When he did, he liked to live in Greenwich Village. It’s a crying shame then that his most significant residence here, and a building that was indeed one of New York City’s most beautiful and storied, was razed in the years just prior to the formation of the Landmark Preservation Commission and the subsequent designation of the Greenwich Village Historic District.

Church of the Ascension ca. 1933 Particularly beautiful for its interior and for the great mural by John La Farge above the altar, this church is a good example of Gothic Revival style in ecclesiastical architecture. It appears that the rector, knowing architect Richard Upjohn's High Church proclivities, bought the lot across the end of the property for his rectory in order to prevent Upjohn from building a deep chancel, as was his wont.

114 Waverly Place ca. 1932 According to the designation report for the Greenwich Village Historic District, 114 Waverly Place was built in 1826 as part of a row of nine houses for Thomas R. Merecin. However it underwent a complete and dramatic alteration in 1920 per the designs of William Sanger for Murray P. Bewley. In some ways the studio window is among the least unusual parts of the redesign of this building, which has been described as both “Art Nouveau” and “German Expressionist.”

Firemen aboard a FDNY Rescue Co. 1 vehicle outside the company's first home station on Great Jones Street, ca. 1915. FDNY Rescue Companies are called upon to use specialized equipment and training in rare or especially dangerous circumstances, including rescues of FDNY personnel. Rescue No. 1 was established in March 1915, and first operated out of the Engine 33 firehouse at 42 Great Jones Street.

Wanamaker's Annex Located in the NoHo Historic District, this full block building was built in the Renaissance Revival style and was originally home to the department store, Wanamaker’s and its warehouse when this stretch of Broadway was a bustling commercial center at the beginning of the 20th century. Wanamaker’s Department Store was founded by John Wanamaker (1838-1922) following the Civil War in Philadelphia. In 1896 the store expanded to New York. The first location of Wanamaker’s was across East 9th Street from what would be 770 Broadway in the old A.T. Stewart cast-iron store (demolished). Quickly Wanamakers became one of the leading department stores in New York City. In 1903 Wanamaker sought to expand his enterprise to the neighboring block to the south and hired the prominent Chicago-based architecture firm of D.H. Burnham & Co. to design his new building as an annex to the original. D.H. Burnham & Co. was originally Burnham & Root, a partnership between Daniel H. Burnham (1846-1912) and John Root formed in 1873. The association lasted until Root’s death in 1891 after which the name became D. H. Burnham & Co. The firm was famous for its early skyscraper designs and was spurred to national prominence in 1890 when it was selected as the consulting architect for the World’s Columbian Exposition held in Chicago in 1893. The full block building at 770 Broadway was built in two stages in 1903-07 and 1924-25. There was an existing building at the northeast corner of Broadway and East 8th Street known as the “Jones Building” which was under lease with the Broadway Trust Company. So the first part of the plan was executed initially around the Jones building and then later finished in 1924 when the store was able to demolish the “Jones Building” and complete the Burnham plan. This was only after having to file a case with the city’s Board of Standards and Appeals, which Wanamaker’s did successfully. The basis for the objection by the city was that the addition as designed back in 1903 did not meet the city’s 1916 Zoning Law’s setback requirement. Clad mostly in terra cotta, this grand shopping palace contained thirty-two acres of retail space, an auditorium with 1,300 seats and a large restaurant to round out the shopping experience. Bridges were built between the Wanamaker buildings which you can see at the left in the 1936 picture above. In 1945, the auditorium was converted into one of the city’s first television studios. Wanamakers closed in 1955 and the cast iron building to the north was lost to a fire shortly thereafter. Today 770 Broadway has retail space in its first two floors and offices above.

This summer in New York might be different than the past. However, there are still many ways you can enjoy the season in the city or from the comfort of your home. Here are our top summer spots to visit in the Village.

Main Building of New York University, ca. 1975. New York University’s Main Building (now known as the Silver Center of Arts and Science) was completed in 1892, replacing the University Building, an 1835 Gothic structure.

Great Jones Alley, ca. 1980s. Great Jones Street was named for a lawyer, Samuel Jones, who donated land to the city in 1789 and stipulated that his name be attached to the resulting road. The donation allowed the city to complete 3rd Street between Broadway and Bowery. A problem arose in that another street, in the West Village, had already been named for a Jones (Samuel's brother-in-law, a Dr. Gardiner Jones). The newer street had to settle for the "great" moniker. The small alley that runs south from Great Jones Street, mid-block between Broadway and Lafayette, is called Great Jones Alley. According to rumors, the term “jonesin(g),” meaning an intense craving for a drug, can trace its inception to this small dead-end street where addicts hung out in the 1960s.