Siegel-Cooper ca. 1975 When the Siegel-Cooper store opened its doors on September 12, 1896, 150,000 people attended for a glimpse of what the New York Times called "a shopping resort." The store, which ran from 18th to 19th street on Sixth Avenue, and could be reached by the new El, sold everything from feather boas to feather dusters, abdominal bands to zephyrs, as well as live animals and birds, on four selling floors and a basement. The fifth and sixth floors were stockrooms, and a conservatory could be found on the roof where plants were for sale. Adjacent to the conservatory was a photography studio and a staircase which led to a public observatory on the roof. The tower at the top of the building housed a searchlight with a lens thirty-six inches in diameter, "the largest ever made," whose light could be seen for 30 miles and was used "for the benefit of the public in signaling the results of elections and like matters, and for the benefit of the Big Store by throwing advertising announcements upon the lower surface of clouds by night." Services included a bank, telegraph office, dental parlors, a barber shop were "especial attention is paid to children's haircutting," and a restaurant which could seat 350 people.

The first Madison Square Garden, ca. 1891. Originally a station for the Cornelius Vanderbilt-owned New York & Harlem Rail Road, P.T. Barnum converted the terminal space into the Great Roman Hippodrome Arena in 1871. It became Gilmore's Garden, named for the entertainment impersario Patrick Gilmore, in 1876. The following year, the area hosted the first edition of the competition that would become the Westminster Kennel Club Dog Show. Following Vanderbilt's death, William Kissam Vanderbilt assumed control of the site, changing the name to Madison Square Garden. In 1889, the younger Vanderbilt sold the aging venue to a group of Gilded Age industrialists who hired architect Stanford White to design a new Garden on the same site.

Proctor's 23rd Street Theater ca. 1895 When the church that originally occupied this site was torn down. F.F. Proctor purchased the land and erected his theater. It was here that he began his career as the foremost producer of vaudeville and popular melodramas. Proctor's was the first vaudeville house in New York City to offer "continuous vaudeville," with shows running from 11 in the morning to 11 at night. Advertisements for Proctor's read "After Breakfast, Go to Proctor's, After Proctor's Go To Bed." Located in the Flatiron district, Proctor's made a special appeal to women shoppers, who could catch a show any time during the day. With the coming of movies, the theater began to offer a mix of movies and vaudeville, and then movies alone.

Metropolitan Life Insurance Company Tower ca. 1909. New York boasts few campaniles, yet here, the architects arrived at the ingenious scheme of combining skyscraper offices, a commercial symbol ("The Light that Never Fails"), and a large office building into one structure. In 1908 it was the tallest building in New York, and the clock faces are larger than those of Big Ben in London.

(1875, Mortimer C. Merritt; expanded 1895) As early as the 1860’s, the West 20s above Union Square had a reputation as a shopping district for a new class of retail consumer, primarily women with disposable income and leisure time to spend on shopping for ready-made clothing and goods. The Hugh O’Neill Dry Goods Store is perhaps the most visible department store on this stretch of Sixth Avenue. With its domed corner towers and central pediment, it is among the finest examples of cast-iron architecture in the city. The original fourstory, French-inspired Renaissance Revival design was expanded in 1895 with a fifth floor. The domes and pediment were temporarily removed and then reinstalled on top of the addition. Adding stories or whole new bays on cast-iron fronted buildings was a fairly frequent occurrence, and pointed up the advantages of cast iron as a modular construction technology in which standardized, mass-produced facade components and ornament could be replicated and installed with relative ease.

Madison Square Presbyterian Church, ca. 1903-1906.

Farragut Monument ca. 1924 This monument represents the collaboration of the sculptor Augustus Saint-Gaudens and the architect Stanford White, who designed the base. We readily sense the stance of a seafarer braced on deck to withstand the rolling sea. The base, with its beautiful lettering, sea-drenched maidens, and dolphins, is a superb allegory unique in its style at that date and foreshadowing the Continental Art Nouveau.

Hotel St. Germain ca. 1855 Though now long gone, the Hotel St. Germain certainly attracted some attention when it was built in 1855, especially when compared to the nearby stately Fifth Avenue Hotel. An 1862 Vanity Fair recounted a particularly critical exchange "What started that horse to run away?” asked the Architect. “I don’t know sir, he took fright up at the St. Germain Hotel.” “Took fright at the St. Germain? Sensible horse. I don’t wonder!” replied the Architect. This short exchange sums up the public's feelings about the Hotel St. Germain and it was eventually demolished by real estate investor Amos Eno to make way for better-loved buildings (though not that better-loved since they too were demolished around the turn of the century for the Flatiron Building).

The Vanderbilt Restaurant at Broadway and 21st Street, February 26, 1920. The rear of the Flatiron Building is visible in the background, at left.

48-54 West 25th Street, ca. 1923. Architects George and Edward Blum erected this 12-story building in 1910 for Abraham E. Lefcourt, who at the time was a cloak and suit manufacturer. While Lefcourt eventually came to be a prolific real estate developer, erecting more than 20 buildings in Manhattan in under a decade, this lofted-structure was his first construction in the city. Before his commissioning career took off, Lefcourt designated the bottom two floors of this building as a space for his own clothing factory.

Victory Arch at Madison Square ca. 1919 This monument, conceived during World War I both to spur enlistment in and patriotic support for America's military efforts overseas and to memorialize New York City's war dead, became mired in committee politics long enough for the November 1918 armistice to have ended the war. Accordingly, the structure was transformed into a municipal Victory Arch, using temporary material and design by architect Thomas Hastings (1850-1929). The project took form with all the speed earlier denied it, and it was completed in time for the triumphant homecoming of New York's 27th troop division in late March 1919. Subtlety was not the concern of such grand civic gestures. Modeled after the ancient Arch of Constantine, the arch featured tripartite construction and an honor court displaying allegorical figures of Peace, Justice, Power, and Wisdom. Relief panels commemorated important battles, war service organizations, and the contributions of American industries, such as shipbuilding and munitions manufacture. Rising to a stunning height of 100 feet, the white archway's ample form straddled 125 feet of Madison Square at the intersection of Broadway, 24th Street and FifthAvenue. The purposeful siting probably reminded many New Yorkers of a similar arch, also made of plaster and wood, erected at this location in 1899 to salute Admiral George Dewey's victory over the Spanish at Manila Bay in 1898. Like its predecessor, the Victory Arch enlisted volunteer talent from the National Sculpture Society and was constructed with the expectation that it would be rebuilt in some permanent form. However,just as the earlier "imperishable" monument had failed to materialize when subscriptions lagged and Dewey's popularity ebbed, plans for the World War I memorial erupted in controversy over the commission's choice of artist and the proposed iconography. As debate escalated over the necessity of perpetuating this "Altar of Extravagance," as Fiorello La Guardia branded the project in 191 when campaigning for the presidency of the Board of Aldermen, the arch joined New York's City's growing registry of demolished commemorative structures.

Madison Square Presbyterian Church, interior dome, ca. 1905.

St. Francis Xavier High School, 30 West 16th Street, ca. 1928. Founded in 1847 by Father John Larkin, a professor at St. John's College (now Fordham University), the school was originally known as the College of St. Francis Xavier and offered instruction to boys from the ages eight to twenty-one. A military training operation began at Xavier High School in 1886 under the direction of the National Guard; membership became mandatory in 1892. In the years that followed, collegiate and secondary studies were separated, and the college level department at the school closed in 1912. From 1935 to 1968, Xavier High School acted as a Junior ROTC unit. Students took four years of military science and training, which was recognized upon enrollment in any branch of the United States Military. After 1971, participation in military studies was no longer mandatory. Today, Xavier High School is an independent Jesuit university-preparatory high school for boys. Since 1928, when the school was first accredited, Xavier High School has held membership in the Jesuit Schools Network, the National Catholic Education Association, and the New York State Association of Independent Schools.

Mortimer Building, 159 Fifth Avenue (935-939 Broadway), ca. 1977. Completed in 1862, The Mortimer Building was an early exemplar of the commercial architecture that would transform today's lower Flatiron District during and immediately after the Civil War. The Italianate-style department store, owned by the developer and stockbroker Richard Mortimer, is attributed to the prolific architect Griffith Thomas, whose later works include several cast iron-fronted loft buildings included in the SoHo Cast Iron Historic District. In its Ladies' Mile Historic District Designation Report (1989), the Landmarks Preservation Commission acknowledges the influence of the earlier, J.B. Snook-designed A.T. Stewart department store at Broadway and Chambers Street. In the immediate post-war period, department stores like Stewart's and Lord & Taylor began to open "uptown" outposts near Madison Square. The brownstone Mortimer building, with frontage on Broadway, Fifth Avenue, and East 22nd Street, blends with the area's previous residential architecture, while looking toward the neighborhood's future as a commercial district. Indeed, Mortimer's building was home to the very first offices of the American Institute of Architects, founded in 1866. Early commercial tenants included a variety of retail merchants (it's now a Restoration Hardware showroom). Apart from small changes to storefront window displays and cornice alterations, Thomas's design remains largely intact.

In 2021 Madison Square Park was awarded Level 2 Arboretum Accreditation for its continued diversity of tree species. Madison Square Park Conservancy cares for nearly 300 trees that sequester carbon, filter rainwater, and provide shade that keeps our neighborhood cool.

Union Club, pre-1890. Established in 1834, the Union Club of New York City is the oldest men’s social club in the city. The origins of a number of New York's other private clubs can be traced to this organization. The Knickerbocker, Brook and Metropolitan Clubs were offshoots. Its best known descendant is the Union League Club, founded by Union Club members during the Civil War who were displeased with the club's unwillingness to dismiss its Confederate members. The Union Club has occupied six buildings over its 183-year history. The pictured building, at the northwest corner of 21st Street and Fifth Avenue, was first building constructed expressly as club headquarters. Completed in 1855, the club moved into their first permanent home in April of that year. (The previous locations were all on Broadway, Nos. 343, 376, and 691.) An impressive mansion surrounded by residential buildings (full of likewise wealthy citizens) when built, by the turn of the century the nature of the neighborhood had changes much to the chagrin of the Club members. In 1900, they purchased a plot of land on Fifth Avenue and 51st Street for $700,000 (about $16 million in today's economy). In 1903 the Club officially moved out of their 21st Street building into a new club house designed by Cass Gilbert (or John Du Fais, or both, the attribution is a little murky).

Flatiron Building 175 Fifth Avenue, 1901-1903 Architect: Daniel H. Burnham Developer, Structural Engineer, MEP Engineer, General Contractor, Original Owner & Tenant: George A. Fuller Construction Co. Current Owner: Flatiron Associates Current Tenant: St. Martins Press, Springer-Verlag Inc. Height: 285 ft / 87 m Floors: 21 The Flatiron Building, also called the Fuller Building, stands at 175 Fifth Avenue, at the intersection of 23rd Street, Fifth Avenue and Broadway. The client was Fuller Construction Co., who also built the 22-story, steel-framed triangular shaped building clad in limestone and terra-cotta. The eclectic decoration borrows form Greek, Gothic and Renaissance traditions. It is often mistakenly described as of the first skyscrapers or first steel-framed buildings. It is more aptly described as one of the first Chicago-style tall buildings in Manhattan with its unbroken, columnar block with a distinct base, shaft and capital instead of the more traditional New York-style skyscraper which features a tower rising above the building. The Flat Iron Building is 285 feet tall, but the rounded corner, like the prow of a ship featured in this view, is only 6 feet wide. When it was under construction it was nicknamed "Burnham's Folly" since its triangular shape was considered unsafe. Gawkers used to dawdle in front of the building to watch as the drafts created by the building lifted women's skirts as they passed. This is said to be the origin of the phrase "23 Skidoo" which police officers would shout out to disperse the gawkers. The entrances to the Flat Iron are in the middle of the long facades which houses retail space and elevator banks. When it opened, the building had an electric generator to provide its own electricity and heating and an early type of hydraulic elevator. There were no designated ladies' rooms since the restrooms of alternate floors were assigned to opposite sexes. On the left is Broadway and Fifth Avenue is on the right in this view. Behind the Flat Iron on the right is the dome of the Merchants Bank of New York, 141 Fifth Avenue (Robert Maynicke, 1897) at the southeast corner of 21st Street. Barely visible to the extreme right is the tower of Sohmer Building at 170 Fifth Avenue (Robert Maynicke, 1898) on the northwest corner of 22nd Street is seen behind it. Although they are rather short, both the Sohmer Building and the Merchants Bank are typical of the New York-style tall building.

The time-honored tradition of window shopping truly comes alive during the holiday season, when retailers pull out all of the stops to make their window displays ever more eye-catching, festive and uplifting. Countless visitors and New Yorkers alike participate in this yearly ritual, which has its roots in the Gilded Age. That era of rapid economic growth and industrialization, which began in the 1870s and lasted until around 1900, generated the building technology that made window shopping in the city possible.

The Fifth Avenue Hotel, across from Madison Square Park, following an 1899 snowstorm. "The Fifth-Avenue Hotel has borne a conspicuous part in the public life of the metropolis, and has been identified with the most notable local events of the generation since its opening, in 1859. The house fronts upon Madison Square, the most charming of the smaller parks of the city, at the junction of Broadway and Fifth Avenue the two great thoroughfares. It is unequalled in the number and spaciousness of its corridors, halls, and public rooms, and the commodious character of its guest rooms." This description by King's Handbook of New York (1893) demonstrates The Fifth Avenue Hotel's luxurious reputation. When Amos Eno built the hotel in 1859, the neighborhood was still dominated by town houses and it was thought to be so far uptown that it was called "Eno's Folly." Luxurious touches including a fireplace in every bedroom, private bathrooms, lavish public rooms, an Otis elevator and four hundred servants and fifty conveyances standing ready to serve the hotel's 800 guests, compensated for its location and assured its success. The hotel was razed in 1908, ahead of the construction of the Toy Center Building on the same site.

"Sixth Avenue, north from and across West 18th Street, showing mainly the west side of this Avenue, 1939. The corner building with the A. Shulte store was formerly part of Altman's Department Store. This bears No. 615-9 Sixth Avenue and is at the N.W. corner of W. 18th Street. The store covered the entire block front from 18th to 19th Streets. The New York Times of March 7, 1939 reports the 1st transfer of this holding since 1817 when it was acquired as farmlands by John Tonnele." (text from the photographer P.L. Speer) The neo-Grec structure was opened in 1877 as the B. Altman store and within the next decade additions were added on 18th and 19th Streets to house the expanding department store. This store was a mainstay of the Ladies' Mile, a section of the Flatiron neighborhood that became a prime shopping district (with most of the larger stores on 6th Avenue) during the late 19th and early 20th century. Interesting features of the building when it opened included an ornate cast iron facade, pneumatic tubes for the movement of money and paperwork, and electric lights.

This house, which attempted to re-create the glories of Second Empire Paris, was built by Leonard W. Jerome as the American Jockey Club, complete with stables and a small private theatre. It later became the University Club and then the Manhattan Club after that. Though it was given landmark status, it was torn down in 1967 when a buyer couldn't be found. Jerome's grandson, child of his daughter and her husband Lord Randolph Churchill, was the famed Winston Churchill.

In the Gilded Age, this was the area where America went to shop. If today, New York's iconic shopping district is midtown Manhattan, in the 1880s and 1890s it was Ladies' Mile, the area extending between 15th and 24th streets from Broadway to Sixth Avenue. As a popular guidebook noted in 1892: "Ill fares the rural or provincial purse whose owner ventures before these attractive windows, extending for miles on miles, ever diversified and varied." Indeed between just 19th and 22nd streets on Broadway you could purchase a French velvet or antique Oriental rug at the carpet emporium, W. & J. Sloane (now ABC Carpet & Home); a silver punch bowl carved with twisted vine handles and lion paw feet at the silver maker Gotham Manufacturing Company; and a bespoke or ready-made suit at Brooks Brothers. It was Lord & Taylor that not only showcased the season's most luxurious fashions, but helped turn shopping into a social activity and form of entertainment. The store-which opened at 20th and Broadway in 1871-beckoned shoppers from the sidewalk. Its large plate-glass windows were a marvel-according to a guidebook, one of Broadway's greatest sites filled with the "richest and rarest good of every description." The windows were set in a five-story structure that architecture critic Montgomery Schuyler called "by far the most beautiful, sensible, and perfect iron building yet erected in New York." Once inside, visitors could take a ride in a passenger elevator. The innovation was less than two decades old-and Lord & Taylor was the first department store to have one. An article in Frank Leslie's Illustrated Newspaper toned the elevator as "luxurious as the grand saloon of the first-class steamboats." Though some went just to browse, those who shopped at Lord & Taylor were mostly from the so-called "carriage trade"- the middle class and wealthy who could afford a carriage ride rather than depend on mass transit. The store had grown from a small dry goods shop on Catharine Street in 1826 to an emporium compared to those in Paris. the New York Times routinely reported on the items in a new season's collection- such as brocaded silk and fur-trimmed boots; a white satin evening dress trimmed with Fedora lace; and a street costume featuring a jacket with matching jockey cap and muff in camel's hair. Lord & Taylor remained a premiere destination on Ladies' Mile until 1914, when it followed other stores upton to its current location at 38th and Fifth Avenue. Shortly thereafter, the owners of the location in front of you put up an interior wall separating off the section of the building fronting Broadway, and created the new stone facade you see on that half of the building today.

SERBIAN ORTHODOX CATHEDRAL OF SAINT SAVA & PARISH HOUSE, FORMER ARLINGTON HOTEL 15 West 25th Street, Richard Upjohn, Cathedral: 1850-55; Parish House: 1860 18 West 25th Street, Israels & Harder, 1901 Across from one another on this block are two formidable structures. On the north side is the brownstone-clad Serbian Orthodox Cathedral of Saint Sava, designed in the English Gothic Revival style by Richard Upjohn, one of the most prominent church architects of his day, as an uptown branch chapel of Trinity Church. The West 25th Street façade features a steeply pitched gable with an impressive rose window and a pointed arch entry with slender columns. Next door to the east is the Parish House, also designed in the English Gothic Revival style, which features a charming arched belfry at its crown. The Serbian Orthodox Cathedral of Saint Sava & Parish House was designated a New York City Individual Landmark in 1968. Across the street is the Renaissance Revival style former Arlington Hotel, a much later structure than the church. It is richly decorated with sculpted limestone quoins, bandcourses, window surrounds and a dentilled cornice.

Madison Square Presbyterian Church, ca. 1906. Designed by Standford White and completed in 1906 (just a few months after White was killed), the Madison Square Presbyterian Church was a High Renaissance style building. It replaced the 1853 Gothic church building that occupied the lot across the street at the southeast corner. The main entrance was reached through a portico supported by six light green granite columns, which were 30 feet tall. The building had a huge central dome, which was decorated in the interior with mosaics and Guastavino tiles. It also featured a number of Tiffany windows. The final feature of the church to be completed was the pediment (the triangle over the portico) which only had its heavenly themed terra cotta sculpture installed in 1910 (after this photograph was taken).

Third Cemetery of the Spanish and Portuguese Synagogue, June 11, 1933. This cemetery is one of the burial places of the oldest Jewish congregation in North America, Congregation Shearith Israel. While the exact location of the first cemetery for the congregation has been lost (it might have been near the African Burial Ground), two other graveyards for this community pre-date this one and remain extant. They are located at Chatham Square and just east of Sixth Avenue on West 11th Street, established 1682 and 1805, respectively. Due to the encroaching city development and changes in the law regarding burials in Manhattan, both of these cemeteries were unfit for the community's needs by the 1820s. Referred to as the 'Third' Cemetery or the 21st Street Cemetery this plot was established in 1829 to move the disinterred graves from the 11th Street location. The active period of this cemetery was brief, as the city banned burials below 86th Street in 1851. The congregation looked to the outer boroughs (a popular cemetery locale by that time). Joining with two other Jewish congregations they founded the Beth Olam Cemetery in Ridgewood, which is still active today.

Trench prepared for the installation of the high pressure water system on Fifth Avenue, south of Madison Square; undated photo. 20th Street crosses Fifth Avenue in the middle ground. At right is No. 127-129, the second storefront south of the southeast corner of the intersection. The loft space was leased by Lord & Taylor between 1906-1914, and the brand name is visible above the storefront.

Constable Building, ca. 1900. While the earlier building and extensions of the Arnold Constable flagship store in the Ladies' Mile shopping district were designed by architect Griffith Thomas in the 1870s, William Schickel was involved in the 1880s expansions of the monumental emporium complex. He designed the Renaissance Revival annex on 18th Street in 1884, as well as the 12-story structure at the corner of Fifth Avenue and East 18th Street, seen here, completed in 1895.

Madison Square Garden (second iteration), 1903. This building on the corner of Madison Avenue and 26th Street was the second on the site to bear the name Madison Square Garden. The first, built by William K. Vanderbilt in 1879, was a drafty structure that presented athletic attractions, most notably boxing matches featuring John L. Sullivan. Unable to make a profit, Vanderbilt razed the building in 1889, after which the Horse Show Association gained control of the site and hired Stanford White of the renowned firm McKim, Mead, and White to design a new structure. White's Madison Square Garden was a Moorish fantasy that cost three million dollars, was the second-tallest building in New York, and boasted an 8,000-seat auditorium that was the largest in the United States. (It also featured a roof garden where White would meet his end in 1906, shot by Harry Thaw on suspicion of having seduced Thaw's young wife, Evelyn Nesbit.) The second Madison Square Garden, which presented horse shows, dog shows, bicycle races, boxing matches, and the Democratic National Convention of 1924, became profitable once promoter Tex Rickard leased the building, but it, too, was razed in 1925 to make way for the new headquarters of New York Life Insurance Company. Rickard kept the name Madison Square Garden but moved the sporting and entertainment facility across town and uptown to Eighth Avenue, first at 50th Street and then to its current location at 32nd Street.

In the 1880s, the Lyceum Theatre sat here on Fourth Avenue between 23rd and 24th Streets. The theatre was eventually acquired by the Metropolitan Life Insurance Company as it looked to expand. The theatre owner, Daniel Frohman, moved his theatre to 45th Street and Broadway at a time when that area was only beginning to emerge as the New York City Theatre District. Frohman's new Lyceum opened in November 1903 with a few bricks from the old Lyceum in its cornerstone.

Lord & Taylor Store ARCHITECT: James H. Giles DATE: 1869-70 STYLE: French Second Empire The Former Lord & Taylor Building is an impressive cast-iron structure handsomely designed in the French Second Empire style by the architect James H. Giles. It was constructed with the most up-to-date materials of the time, cast iron and glass, which were particularly suited to the design of commercial buildings. Its picturesque corner tower with tall mansard roof gives the building a highly distinctive and striking character.

23 Skidoo. Today crowds gather around the Flatiron Building to admire its architecture and place in New York history, but back in the early part of the 20th century, men gathered there for a vastly different reason. As many New Yorkers know, the Flatiron sits at the intersection of Broadway and Fifth Avenue, directly across from Madison Park; the layout of the streets and the park, combined with the building’s placement, can create gusts of wind strong enough to lift women’s skirts. Back in an era when showing any part of one’s legs was risqué, men would gather on 23rd Street hoping to catch a glimpse of a woman’s ankle or maybe even a little more. A contemporary viewer may not conclude that the man in the postcard to the left is admiring the woman’s ankle; I initially thought he was looking at her posterior, but a fellow cataloger clued me in. While it isn’t used heavily today, some say the phrase “23 skidoo” came from this phenomenon. Popular in the early part of the 20th century, getting the “23 skidoo” refers to either leaving an area quickly or being forced to leave. Apparently, the effect of the wind at this intersection was well known and crowds of men would gather in hopes of seeing some skin. As Andrew S. Dolkart in his online article Birth of the Skyscraper: Romantic Symbols describes, so many men loitered in this area that police would eventually come to 23rd Street to usher the crowd away: In the early twentieth century, men would hang out on the corner here on Twenty-third Street and watch the wind blowing women’s dresses up so that they could catch a little bit of ankle. This entered into popular culture and there are hundreds of postcards and illustrations of women with their dresses blowing up in front of the Flatiron Building.

Cadillac Cafeteria, ca. 1922. Despite extensive research, little can be discovered about the history of the Cadillac Cafeteria, a dining establishment on 23rd Street just east of Broadway. But upon closer inspection this photograph taken circa 1920 happily captures the cafeteria's architect, Louis Abramson (second from right) and three unnamed companions. The dining spot was no longer operating in 1966 when a fire tore through the basement of the building behind this one on 22nd Street. Unaware that the two structures shared a basement and a supporting wall had recently been removed, the firefighters attempted to approach the blaze through the drug store now occupying 6 East 23rd Street. The fire weakened the flooring, causing a collapse that killed 12 firemen. Prior to September 11, 2001, this disaster claimed the lives of more fire personnel than any other disaster in the city.

On May 3rd, 1913, marchers arranged themselves, as the New York Times described, “In straight and graceful lines which were brightened with resplendent decorations, passed in attractive and impressive dignity up Fifth Avenue…it was the greatest spectacular triumph ever won by women in this country in their pursuit of the ballot.”

"Sixth Avenue, at the N. E. corner of West 20th Street, showing the P. E. Church of the Holy Communion. 1940."

Though the Eden Musee is now primarily known for its motion picture shows, the institution boasted a vast collection of wax figures organized in diorama-like scenes. The Musee opened in 1884 and quickly became a staple on 23rd Street.

Theodore Roosevelt Birthplace ARCHITECT: Theodate Pope Riddle DATE: 1923 STYLE: Gothic Revival An unusual note of elegance is shown in the drawing room windows at first-floor level which are full length and open upon a handsome cast-iron balcony. All windows and the front door have special drip moldings above them which were the hallmark of the Gothic Revival house. All the windows, with the exception of those in the basement, are shuttered. The cornice at the top of the front wall is carried on a continuous series of small arches, a concession to its having been designed in the Gothic style.

Statue of William Henry Seward, Madison Square Park, March 20, 1936. Seward served as the a U.S. Senator, the Governor of New York, and Lincoln's Secretary of State as part of the "Team of Rivals," responsible for the 1867 purchase of Alaska from Russia for $7 million — known as "Seward's folly."

"Sixth Avenue, east side, north from West 19th Street, 1939." View of the same corner just after the removed of the elevated train infrastructure.

Siegel-Cooper department store, ca. 1975. The crowds at the opening of Siegel-Cooper department store on September 12, 1896 were so crushing the police had to call in for back up. Eleven thousand pushed inside the doors within just the first ten minutes, and there was a solid wall of people stretching along Sixth Avenue, from 14th to 23rd streets. By the time doors closed at 10:30pm, 150,000 shoppers had been inside. Siegel-Cooper was the largest retail space in New York, occupying the entire block between 18th and 19th streets on Sixth Avenue. It quickly became a spectacle on a par with museums, theaters, and other cultural attractions. It felt like a small city, with aisles as wide as streets. Inside, shoppers were greeted by a 10-foot high fountain with a statue of The Republic in marble and gilded bronze- a replica of the one Daniel Chester French had designed for the 1893 Chicago World's Fair. After dropping their children at a nursery, women could wander through the store's 125 departments on six floors, admiring goods as diverse as canned food, feather boas, live animals, and sheet music. They could then lunch on lamb stew or chicken pot pie in the restaurant and head up to the roof for a view of the city from the observatory. Before picking up their kids—and without ever leaving the building—they could visit the dentist, send a message from the telegraph office or deposit a check at the bank. Department stores, epitomized by Siegel-Cooper, were unlike anything shoppers had experienced before. Over the course of the 19th century there were dramatic changes in what retail stores looked like, what they sold and how they sold it. Before the Civil War, shops mostly specialized in one type of item, such as books, purses, or carpets. Or there were dry goods stores that sold ready-made items, fabrics, and other sewing materials. Window displays and interiors were cluttered and customers went in to negotiate the best price for just the items they needed. A.T. Stewart and Macy's ushered in the era of New York City's department stores—building marble and cast-iron palaces with window displays that lured passersby. They had dozens of departments with ready-made goods from corsets and parasols to furniture and toys. They had lounges and lunchrooms that fortified customers to stay and buy items on impulse. And throughout the store, scores of shop girls, trained in the art of selling offered merchandise at a fixed price.

17 West 16th Street, Manhattan (ca. 1846) NYC IL, NHL From 1930 to 1973, this Greek Revival style townhouse was home to the clinic of birth control pioneer Margaret Sanger (1879-1966). Sanger moved to New York City in 1911 and began working as a nurse on the Lower East Side, where she treated women with frequent births, miscarriages and self-induced abortions. At the time, birth control, a term she popularized, was not available in the United States, and the federal Comstock law of 1873 prohibited the distribution of information on the topic. She founded a monthly newsletter entitled The Woman Rebel in 1914, and was indicted for sending “obscene” material through the mail. In 1916, Sanger opened her first clinic in Brownsville, Brooklyn, and in 1921 she helped found the American Birth Control League, which later became known as the Planned Parenthood Federation of America. In 1930, she established a more permanent home for her Birth Control Clinical Research Bureau here at 17 West 16th Street, where research was performed, patients were treated and instructed on contraceptives, and medical professionals from across the country were educated about sex, contraception and disease. The building, today a private residence, still stands as a reminder of Margaret Sanger’s groundbreaking work to advance women’s health and quality of life. Photo from Wikipedia

Construction of the Madison Avenue Presbyterian Church, 1906.

Woman's Suffrage parade, 1915. On October 23, 1915, 50,000 people took to the streets for the country’s largest women’s suffrage parade up until that time. The parade route took the participants from Washington Square Park to 59th Street along 5th Avenue. (This photograph was taken on 5th Avenue at Madison Square Park.) Along with the 50,000 marchers, more than 250,000 people lined the route and were largely a supportive crowd. Unsurprisingly, participants carried signs and banners for added advocacy. Some of the signs included “YOU TRUST US WITH THE CHILDREN; TRUST US WITH THE VOTE” and “GETTING THERE AFTER TRYING FOR FORTY YEARS," which was a crowd-pleaser, being carried by an elderly woman on the parade route.

St. Francis Xavier R.C. Church, ca. 1895. St. Francis Xavier Church was established in 1847 by Jesuits who came down from Fordham (then in Westchester) to start a Manhattan parish. The original building was a simple classical style building, constructed in the 1850s. In 1877 the original church was site of a false alarm panic after someone yelled 'fire' during a service. The ensuing stampede caused the death of seven people. The first structure was demolished a year after this event, and a new church was built in a grand neo-Baroque style, completed in 1882. The tall church with an imposing granite-block facade was designed by well-known church architect Patrick Charles Keely. At the time of its completion it dwarfed most of the surrounding buildings. The interior too was designed in a colossal scale, with frescos, carved plaster and stone, arches, niches, and inlaid marble. A local newspaper in 1884 called the church "sumptuous and exhilarating.”

The graceful Metropolitan Life Tower overlooks Madison Square Park. This story is of its beginnings, as adapted from the Skyscraper Museum's "Ten Tops" exhibition.

28 East 20th Street, south side, between Fourth Avenue and Broadway, 1925. This brownstone was built in 1848 and purchased by Theodore Roosevelt's grandfather, Cornelius Van Schaack Roosevelt, in 1850. He would go on to gift the home to his son and new daughter-in-law as a wedding present in 1854. Theodore Roosevelt was born here on October 27, 1858. The Roosevelt's moved uptown (as was the trend) in 1873, as the area surrounding his birthplace evolved into a primarily commercial district. After the family left, the home (and its neighbor at no. 26, which was also gifted to Roosevelt's uncle) went through a number of drastic alterations before being totally demolished in 1916. In 1919, after Roosevelt's death, the family repurchased nos. 26 and 28 and restored the structures to their 1865 state, complete with period rooms. Initially a private venture, the site became part of the National Park Service in 1962.

New York Public Library, Muhlenberg Branch, ca. 1912. Completed in 1906, the Muhlenburg Branch is a Carnegie library designed by the same architects of the Main Branch of the NYPL, Carrère and Hastings. The simplified Beaux Arts style building is named for William Augustus Muhlenberg. He was the first rector of the nearby Church of the Holy Communion, and donated many books to the Free Circulating Library (a precursor to the NYPL).

Washington Centennial Celebration Parade, along Fifth Avenue at Madison Square Park, 1889. The Arch seen here was one of many, including one that would inspire Stanford White's stone arch in Washington Square Park.

Northwest corner of Seventh Avenue and 21st Street, January 25, 1914. The newspaper stand on the corner has a poster which reads: "Why I shot Wm. E. Annis. Capt. Peter C. Hains Jr. USA lays bare for the first time the full facts of the surprising domestic tragedy which reached its climax when he shot Annis dead. In the next Sunday's American." This flashy headline refers to an event that had occurred eight years earlier. Believing that Annis, a magazine publisher, was having an affair with his wife while he was stationed in Manila, the Army captain shot the man six times at a regatta in Little Neck Bay. Hains was found guilty and served only two and a half years of his 8-16 year sentence. Presumably he was telling his story so many years later to cash in on the fame.

Hoffman House Hotel, ca. 1905 Located in what was once an exclusive residential area, the Hoffman House Hotel was considered one of the first hotels/commercial ventures in the Madison Square area. Opened in 1864, the original hotel occupied the building one in from the corner (though this circa 1905 image depicts the original locale with a late 19th-century rooftop addition). In 1870 as Broadway and Fifth Avenue lined with newer and fancier hotels, the Hoffman opened a large annex at the corner The hotel was well known for its cuisine, artworks, and opulent decoration, and was a popular headquarters for Democratic politicians. On January 22, 1870, the New York Herald announced that sisters Victoria C. Woodhull and Tennessee (Tennie) C. Claflin had rented Parlors No. 25 and 26. They established a stock brokerage firm, becoming the first female brokers, before decamping to a Broad Street office with the help of friend Cornelius Vanderbilt. By the middle of the 1890s, the annex had been replaced with the grand Moorish-influenced building seen here at the corner. The original building gained an extra three stories around the same time, only to be completely demolished and replaced with a new gleaming white limestone structure in 1907. Alas, the loss of revenue during the reconstruction and the Panic of 1907 signaled the early death knell for the hotel. After entering bankruptcy in 1910, the hotel closed its doors (both of them) in 1915. Both of these buildings, and its hotel neighbor on the block, the Albermarle, were demolished for a 16-story loft building soon after.

The images gathered here attest to the Forward’s unwavering commitment to public service journalism and to the importance of enhancing Jewish community engagement here and abroad. The paper was founded by socialists and read by a community of workers who saw calls for social justice, protests and demonstrations as means to attain their democratically achieved rights – and also as a way to inform the public.

Chickering Hall, ca. 1888. Chickering Hall was New York headquarters and concert hall of the Chickering & Sons piano manufacturing firm. Architect George B. Post’s design made use of brick, marble, and brownstone and included a tiled hipped roof and massive, two-story arches on the building’s 18th Street and Fifth Avenue frontages. Indoors, Post’s 1,450-seat performance hall hosted its first event on November 1875. Events at Chickering Hall included an early telephone demonstration by Alexander Graham Bell (1877) and a lecture by Oscar Wilde (1882), among many musical performances showcasing Chickering & Sons instruments. In 1901, Chickering & Sons lost their lease for the property and the building was demolished in early 1902.

The 51-foot monument to General William Jenkins Worth near Madison Square Park is the second oldest monument in NYC. (The oldest is the statue of Washington in Union Square.) It is also one of only two New York monuments that serve as a mausoleum. (The other is Grant’s Tomb.)

Dewey Arch ca. 1899 This wood-and-plaster arch and colonnade at Madison Square was the focal point of Commodore George Dewey's triumphal procession through New York City on September 30, 1899, after defeating the Spanish forces at Manila Bay on May 1, 1898. The temporary construction, erected by the National Sculpture Society under the leadership of architect Charles R. Lamb and sculptor Frederic W. Ruckstall, was completed on September 29, just one day before the procession. The arch was intended to attract subscriptions for a permanent structure, but Dewey's popularity waned and the project was abandoned. The heavily deteriorated temporary monument was removed in late 1900.

Appellate Division Courthouse of the Supreme Court of New York ca. 1900 Extremely rich in its use of materials, this small courthouse seems almost overburdened by its pediment and balustrade crowned with statues. Yet it is significant as a building in which the arts, including sculpture and mural painting were liberally represented through the efforts of the Municipal Art Society.

Mattachine Society & Daughters of Bilitis Offices, 1133 Broadway. From at least December 1958 to July 1968, this building near Madison Square was the location of the offices of the New York Area Council of the Mattachine Society, Inc., and its successor after 1961, the Mattachine Society Inc. of New York. Mattachine was one of New York’s most important early homophile groups, predominantly for men. Another pioneering homophile group, the Daughters of Bilitis, New York Chapter, shared office space with Mattachine until September 1961.

Flatiron Building, ca. 1977. Located on a site once known as "the Cow Catcher," this building amazed New Yorkers with its dizzy, slender height as seen from the north. Actually, it was almost as sturdy as a rectangular building, though triangular in plan. The exterior treatment, overly rich to our modern eyes, was considered quite conservative in 1902 when it was designed by D.H. Burnham & Company.

Roscoe Conkling Statue, ca. 1976. Mayor of Utica, New York, New York State Congressman and Senator, Roscoe Conkling was a well-established and popular politician until an 1881 dispute with President Garfield over patronage dispensation and federal appointments caused him to resign his Senate seat. He is perhaps best known as the most famous victim of the Great Blizzard of 1888. After leaving his law office, Conkling was walking to the New York Club on 25th Street. He ended up caught for some time in a nearly chest-high drift in Union Square. Though he made it to the club, his health soon began to decline, starting with an ear infection. He died April 18, 1888. In the early 1890s friends advocated for a statue of Conkling in Union Square. Park officials declined the proposed site, supposedly they did not feel he was an appropriate fit with Lincoln and Washington in Union Square. The statue, created by John Quincy Adams Ward, depicts the man while delivering a speech before the United States Senate. Installed in early December 1893, the eight-foot-tall statue did not have a dedication ceremony. The statue was moved 20 feet to its current location during the renovation and redesign of Madison Square Park in 2000.

"6th Avenue between 18th and 19th Street. Westerly block front, looking S.W., B. Altman store, cast iron architecture, 1948"

Cedar Creek, once visible, still flows west to the East River under Madison Square Park. It was buried as the city industrialized during the 19th century.

30-32 West 21st Street, ca. 1985. The second location of Danceteria had four floors of dancers hidden behind this dour facade. In its short-lived location it was known for new wave and post-punk music as well as early hip-hop. Madonna, New Order, Duran Duran, Billy Idol, The Smiths, Cyndi Lauper, Depeche Mode, Sonic Youth, the Violent Femmes, Nick Cave and the Bad Seeds, Beastie Boys, and LL Cool J all played here. If you missed hanging out with Madonna here, watch Desperately Seeking Susan. Danceteria reopened in the Martha Washington Hotel ballroom from 1989 to 1992 and a Hamptons outpost ran from 1984 to 1995.

Lord & Taylor building, ca. 1908. The grand Second Empire building was completed in 1870, becoming the third Lord & Taylor store, and the first north of Union Square. Architect James H. Giles designed an intricate cast iron facade, notable for its departure from previous cast iron designs, which sought to emulate stonework. This store is also said to be the site of New York’s first department store Christmas window display. In 1915, Lord & Taylor moved into a new showcase space uptown, and the building at Broadway and 20th Street was converted for manufacturing use.

Originally known as the South Asian Gay Association (SAGA) when it formed in 1989, the volunteer-based organization was renamed the South Asian Lesbian and Gay Association (SALGA) two years later when several women joined. SALGA currently serves Desi LGBT people who trace their roots to countries such as Afghanistan, Bangladesh, Bhutan, Burma, India, Nepal, Pakistan, Sri Lanka, and Tibet, and those of South Asian descent from countries such as Guyana, Trinidad, and Kenya. The group has met at the LGBT Community Center since its founding. Madison Square Park was an important gathering spot for SALGA to protest in the years when the group was banned by the Federation of Indian Associations (FIA) from marching in the India Day Parade, an annual event on Madison Avenue that has been organized by FIA since 1981. These protest gatherings were called “Desi Dhamaka” (a SALGA member said that “dhamaka” essentially means “blast” in Hindi). SALGA first marched in the parade in 1992 after the New York City Human Rights Commission intervened on its behalf. However, a year later, FIA stipulated that SALGA could only participate if its members did not carry signs that stated their homosexuality, which the group refused to do.

32-46 West 23rd Street, ca. 1981. The original section of this wide, multi-address building is at left (nos. 32-36). This three-lot-wide, cast iron fronted building (with an out of context glass curtain wall on the top floors) was designed by Henry Fernbach in 1878 for the Stern's Dry Good Store. Stern's was a large emporium with imported goods that served middle-class to upper-class shoppers. In 1880 the three lots to the east were purchased for an extension, and then a number of lots to the west were purchased in 1886. Still the business grew and the store required more space. In 1892 William Schickel enlarged the building on the western lots, creating another cast iron building at nos. 38-46. The entire building now looked like a center section with matching sides. Stern's moved out in 1913, but the building went on to house industrial and manufacturing firms. By 1920 it is one of a number of Manhattan locations that housed functions of the Tiffany Studios, the stained glass company. Many well-known Tiffany pieces are stamped with 46 West 23rd Street.

Church of the Holy Communion Complex ARCHITECT: Richard Upjohn DATE: 1844-46 STYLE: Gothic Revival The Church of the Holy Communion and Sisters House and Chapel form a remarkably attractive homogenous architectural group of buildings executed in the Gothic Revival style of architecture. It was the first “free” church in the City. It had the first boys choir, and it was the home of New York’s first Anglican Sisterhood. The Sisters founded St. Luke’s Hospital in the Sisters House, destined to become one of the great hospitals of New York City.

"Sixth Avenue, east side, north from West 19th Street, 1933. Appearing progressively are the former Alexander and Cammeyer Buildings, the Protestant Episcopal Church of the Holy Communion, the Masonic Temple building and the Hotel McAlpin. Towering above the church is the dominant Empire State Building." (text from the photographer P.L. Speer)

St. Vincent de Paul ca. 1932 French-speaking Catholics from both France and its New World colonies were among the earliest Catholic settlers in New York and were some of the first parishioners of St. Peter's, New York's original parish. The French population tended to assimilate quickly into the larger society; however, bolstered by continued immigration, in 1841, they organized their own parish, St. Vincent de Paul, on Canal Street, in lower Manhattan, which later relocated to West 23rd Street.

The Eden Musee boasted a waxwork collection and other oddities such as magic lantern shows, marionettes, and a "Chamber of Horrors" in its basement. Though the institution had a collection of paintings, it was mostly known for the motion pictures which were shown in its various halls. The Musee was the first venue in the country with motion pictures as part of its standard programming. In fact, the Eden was Edison's first movie licensee. After the venue declared bankruptcy in 1915, much of its collection was auctioned off or exhibited on Coney Island.

International Toy Center, ca. 1916 Construction began on the beguilingly named International Toy Center in 1908 and was completed the next year. It had large shoes to fill, as it replaced the famed Fifth Avenue Hotel, one of the first (but hardly the last) of New York's luxury hotels. Moreover, the building showed the speed at which the city was industrializing; only 70 years before, this area had been farmland. Though initially named the Fifth Avenue Building, it earned its new moniker during the First World War when scarcity in European manufactures caused a boost in the toy industry. By the end of the following World War, many of the industry's largest players inhabited the building and in the 1960s manager Helmsley-Spear restricted the leases to toy companies. By the early 1980s, 95% of toy transactions in the United States were handled by the complex's 600 toy tenants (by then the Toy Center comprised two buildings). Though a series of sales and changing markets left the building partly unoccupied during the early 2000s, 200 Fifth Avenue now hoasts Eataly, Tiffany, and many others.

Atrium of the Simpson-Crawford Company decorated for Easter, 1904. Simpson-Crawford Co. began as a small dry good store opened in the 1860s at Sixth Avenue and 19th Street. Through a series of new partnerships, the store grew and prospered (and changed names a few times), catering to a very high end clientele. At the turn of the 20th century, the owner selected architectural firm, William H. Hume & Son, to expand the large store to a full block width on Sixth Avenue. The building, complete in 1902, was stately and conservative, rendered in an understated Beaux Arts style. The building included the first escalator (called “moving stairs”) on Sixth Avenue and used a new marketing device, the mannequin. The interior featured a soaring cast iron atrium with a colored-glass skylight. This space was perfect for over the top holiday displays, such as the Easter one depicted here.

The men and women of the New York City Department of Sanitation are vital first responders. History has thrown many challenges the agency’s way and each time DSNY has risen to the occasion.

Mansard roof of 881 Broadway, ca. 1973.

Croisic Building, 1912. Designed by Frederick C. Browne in a neo-Gothic style, the 21-story Croisic Building completed in 1912. While the lower section of the building rises plainly, the six-story crown is richly decorated with stone eagles, seated figures dressed in armor, and projecting gargoyles. While this drew its inspiration from Cass Gilbert's neo-Gothic West Street Building, this building in turn, influenced two other nearby buildings (212-216 Fifth Avenue and 228-232 Fifth Avenue), both designed by Schwartz & Gross.

Johnston Building, ca. 1905. This corner Beaux-Arts building was completed between 1902 and 1903 to plans by the firm of Schickel & Ditmars, for a female owner named Caroline Johnston. The limestone building's most noticeable feature is rounded corner bay topped by an ornate tempietto. Though the ground floor has been significantly altered, the building above the first floor remains remarkably intact. In 2012 the building was converted into the NoMad Hotel, a fancy lodging venue, one of the many office buildings converted into hotels in the first decade of the 21st century.

Church of the Holy Communion ca. 1928 Rarely does such a complete ecclesiastical group survive intact from the Gothic Revival. Although this diminutive church, parish house, and rectory represent that style pared down to its bare essentials, the general effect is delightful and sincerely religious in its lack of pretentiousness.

"127-123 West 20th Street, north side, just west of Sixth Avenue. No. 123 adjoins the Partola Building, which is on Sixth Avenue at the N.W. corner of 20th Street, 1931." The Partola Building was originally the the O'Neill-Adams department store building. After an extensive renovation in 1920, the building became home to the Partola Manufacturing Company, a chemical company.

World War I-era U.S. Navy recruiting station in Madison Square Park, ca. 1917. In the foreground, the front page of a New York Evening Telegram is visible, with above the fold headlines reading “Save Venice Allies; Mr Poincare Acts to End Cabinet Crisis; Kerensky Wins; Finn Report,” dispatches from the wartime and political crises on the Continent. In September, 1917 (a possible date of this photo), Venice endured aerial bombardment, French President Raymond Poincaré endeavored to form a government, and Alexander Kerensky, then the Russian Premier proclaimed the short-lived Russian Republic.

Trinity Chapel ca. 1926 Designed by Richard Upjohn, the architect of Trinity Church on Broadway, this chapel is one of the finer evocations of the Gothic Revival. The straightforward design utilizes wood trusses instead of simulated rib vaulting. The handsome yet simple apse provides a fine setting for the altar and closes the long nave of the chapel most effectively.

"Seventh Avenue, east side, from 20th to 19th Streets,1931." Notice the police officer on horseback, and the two different types of ornamental light poles.

Seventh Avenue, west side, from 20th Street to 21st Street, ca. 1920.

West side of Fifth Avenue, between 22nd and 23rd Streets, March 26, 1920. This block, part of the 1989 Ladies Mile Historic District, includes a number of buildings recalling the neighborhood’s history as a tony 19th century residential and shopping district. The three leftmost buildings (nos. 172-176) have been replaced by late 1920s construction.

23rd Street, looking east from about Seventh Avenue, September 14, 1928. The building at center, 71 West 23rd Street, is home to the Freemason Garabaldi Lodge #542. The 19-story loft building was constructed between 1911 and 1913 in a neo-Renaissance style by Free Mason Harry P. Knowles. The structure was always meant to be, and continues to be, a means of generating income to the support the functions of the Masons. Spaces in the building have always been rented to organizations and companies as offices and event spaces. The building offers at least 15 rooms for events of various sizes with varied and spectacular interior design. The ceremonial functions of the Mason's are located in the 1909 building that fronts West 24th Street and can be reached through a through-block pedestrian passageway. Well-known members of this lodge have included Mayor Fiorello La Guardia, John Jacob Astor, and Harry Houdini.

Hungarian American Bank, ca. 1910. Real estate developer Henry Corn commissioned the architect Robert Maynicke to design a mid block, 11-story Beaux-Arts building in the mid 1890s. The large bank building then had an addition completed in 1899, which extended the building to the corner, added two more stories, and erected a three-story dome at the new corner. The new addition made the building a far more striking edifice. Through the 20th century, the bank and manufacturing structure lost its balcony and had contemporary infill on the ground level. In 2005 while undergoing a condo conversion the facade was restored and the original features, once lost, were remade. The cupola is now a 3,200 square-foot apartment.

Madison Square Arch, 1918. The Madison Square Arch, also known as the "Victory Arch," was built in 1918 to commemorate New York City's war dead. Conceived by Mayor John F. Hylan and designed by Thomas Hastings, the arch was made of temporary materials and modeled after the Arch of Constantine in Rome. Although the intent was for arch to be rebuilt out of permanent materials, the plan was scrapped over arguments about the cost and the design of the monument.

(1886-87, Schwarzmann & Buchman)) The late 19th-century commercial takeover of Sixth Avenue wasn’t limited to just high-end department stores. The area surrounding 23rd Street was once a nexus of theatrical productions, of both vaudeville and legitimate persuasions alike. In 1879, Koster & Bial took over Bryant’s Opera House (established 1870, infamously one of the last minstrel theaters in the city). The partners soon expanded to a 1,200-seat theater on 23rd Street and eventually took up the entire Sixth Avenue frontage as well with a beer garden and a corner annex, which served as a saloon and beer store. The latter’s pediment and corner plaque still proudly advertise “The Corner” and “Koster & Bial.” In 1893, the partners were forced to close their Chelsea operations on charges of “encouraging prostitution.” A few days later they had opened a new venue on 34th Street (later famous for hosting the city’s first motion picture exhibition in 1896).

Madison Square Presbyterian Church, ca. 1910. The church was often referred to as the "Parkhurst Church" after its pastor, Reverend Charles Henry Parkhurst. It was the place of worship for a number of prominent early 20th century New Yorkers, including Tiffany, who as a parishioner, was given near complete artist freedom in the creation of the church's stained glass. By 1918, only 12 years after the new church was constructed, the congregation merged with the First Presbyterian Church on Fifth Avenue. Its wealthy community was moving further uptown. The demolition of the church began in October of 1918 and the plot was sold to the Metropolitan Life Insurance Company, who erected a 29-story annex to their main building between 1928 and 1950. An interesting fact about this short-lived church is the number of architectural details that survive today, elsewhere. The iron scrollwork light fixtures, carved pews, and a glass cross were moved to the church where the congregation relocated. Some small bits ended up with the family of Stanford White. The Tiffany stained glass windows (which Tiffany demanded be returned to him should the church ever close) are now in a wedding chapel at a hotel in Riverside, California. A doorway is in the collection at the Brooklyn Museum, a terra cotta block that topped one of the columns is at Ohio State University, and Hartford Times building in Connecticut has the 30-foot-tall green columns and portions of the cornice. One of the directors of the Metropolitan Life Insurance Company, Robert DeForest, was also the President of the Metropolitan Museum of Art. He had the pediment with its terra cotta sculpture moved to the museum. It was on display for some time until the building was expanded in the 1960s. No one wanted to fund the removal and re-installation of the 44-foor-long piece, so it was demolished.

Asociación de Arte Latinoamericano (ADAL), 682 Sixth Avenue. For nearly 40 years, gay artistic director Max Ferrá led INTAR, a Latino theater company first known as Asociación de Arte Latinoamericano (ADAL) when it was located in this building from 1966 to 1971. Under Ferrá, who was also a co-founder, the company became a major force in developing Hispanic-American theater talent, including original works by several notable LGBT playwrights.

186 Fifth Avenue (at right), 1896. Designed by Henry J. Hardenburgh, architect of the Plaza Hotel and the Dakota Apartments, this vibrant red brick Queen Anne style building with the peaked roof stands out among its lighter colored cast iron neighbors. Hardenburgh completed the structure in 1883 as a branch office of the Western Union Telegraph Company. There are still company logos carved in stone on the building. This "uptown" branch was connected to the Western Union downtown headquarters at Broadway and Dey Street by a pneumatic tube system. While the building remained offices for much of its history, today the upper floors have been converted into condos while the lower two floors are commercial.

A communist demonstration in front of the Hartford building on May 1, 1937.

(1927, Abraham Fisher) This six-story commercial building is notable for its striking façade and unusual name, a reference to the “Traffic Cafeteria” that occupied the lower two stories in the late 1920s. “Traffic” referred to the trucking industry in its nascent years. Cafeteria-style restaurants catering to budget-conscious urbanites became popular in the 1920s. Designed by little-known architect Fisher, the building is a wonder of patterned brickwork and rich, Celtic-inspired terra cotta ornament. Rather than bearing weight, this façade is a “curtain wall” held up floor-by-floor by the building’s concealed steel frame. Fisher’s treatment of the Traffic Building’s façade as a tapestry and use of diagonally-laid brick acknowledge this up-to-date reality. At the same time, traditional elements make it seem anachronistic. It is one of those buildings which, when noticed, rivet and reward.

Appellate Division Courthouse of New York State ARCHITECT: James Brown Lord DATE: 1896-99 The courthouse with its interior is a major manifestation of the turn-of-the-century movement which called for an integration of architecture, sculpture, and painting. It was the first in New York to carry out the ideals of this movement. The interior and exterior harmoniously work together to depict aspects of the theme of Justice and the Law and create a sense of architectural magnificence. The interior is both lavish and elegant in its materials and furnishings, and it displays the work of some of America’s foremost artists and craftsmen.

The early fight against fascism in the United States predates WWII and started in the city with a huge march for May Day in 1934. The Forward was there to march, and also to cover it in all its excitement and color.

My Archive Summer 2019 “My grandmother. Born in 1911 and from Merrick, Long Island. She worked at MetLife. In the background, New York Life is being built which places this photo around 1926. Her mother was pissed when she quit MetLife and went to work in a 34th street Barber Shop as a men's manicurist. She also modeled stockings. Oh, the scandal!” —Richard Becker

In 1750, British naval officer Thomas Clarke bought a Dutch farm to create his retirement estate, named “Chelsea” after the Royal Hospital Chelsea in London. His property extended from approximately Eighth Avenue to the Hudson—its shore ran roughly along today’s Tenth Avenue—between 20th and 28th Streets. The estate was subdivided in 1813 between two grandsons; Clement Clarke Moore received the southern half below 24th Street while his cousin, Thomas B. Clarke, inherited the northern section. The two halves developed distinctly different characters due to the split. Today, Chelsea contains a variety of historic architecture, including some of the city’s most intact nineteenth-century residential blocks, significant commercial buildings, and industrial complexes near the Hudson River.

Scribner Building ARCHITECT: Ernest Flagg DATE: 1893-94 STYLE: Beaux-Arts The Scribner Building is a handsome Beaux-Arts office building. It was designed by the eminent American architect Ernest Flagg, and it is a tine example of the application of the best principles of French Beaux-Arts design to a relatively small commercial building, and that it served for many years as the corporate home of Charles Scribner’s Sons, the noted publishing firm.

Church of the Holy Communion, date unknown. The Gothic Revival church was constructed between 1844-1845. Designed by well-known church architect Richard Upjohn, it was the first asymmetrical Gothic Revival church building in the United States. The architect designed it to resemble a small medieval English parish church. Though the church was an influential building in the 19th century, it is the building's later 20th century history that is most well known. In the mid-1970s, the church was the Lindisfarne Association's headquarters, which created a cultural center, hosting poetry readings, concerts and lectures. Oddysey House, a drug rehabiliation program, next occupied the church. Then, from 1983 until 2007 the church housed the Limelight, a notorious nightclub. First a disco and rock club, it would evolve into a place for techno, goth, and industrial music. It was frequented by the club kids of the 1990s and was closed and reopened a number of times during its history due to police raids. The Limelight finally closed in 2007 (by that point it had been renamed Avalon). Today the 1840s church is occupied by an upscale Chinese restaurant and a branch of the David Barton Gym chain.

11 Madison Avenue, ca. 1937.

“45 East 18th Street, adjoining the N.W. corner of Fourth Avenue, showing an old enterprise; a feature of this locality (woolen’s) for years. To the right is the 12-story Belvedere Building located at the aforementioned corner. June 1938.” The “old enterprise” is, of course, the Old Town Bar and Restaurant, opened in 1892 and in continuous operation since (its proximity to Prohibition-era Tammany Hall probably didn’t hurt). Inside, you’ll find the original marble and mahogany bar, and one of New York’s oldest operating dumbwaiters.

Though many may not know it, the current Madison Square Garden is, in fact, the fourth Madison Square Garden!

ca. 1966 The Jerome Mansion (pictured here in itself final days) was once home to Leonard Jerome, a millionaire speculator, and financier. Jerome was one of the wealthiest men in New York, making and losing several fortunes over the years. A dashing figure, he yachted with William Vanderbilt, went on hunting trips with Buffalo Bill, and defended the New York Times with a Gatling gun during the Draft Riots. A society man, Jerome founded the famous Coney Island Jockey Club and funded many of the city's early opera houses. It was fitting then that he would have a mansion to match his verve. Jerome had no interest in building a modest home, hiring the English architect Thomas Jackson to build what would be, upon its completion in 1859, one of the biggest and most expensive residences in the city. Designed in the Second Empire style, the Jerome Mansion was six stories high with a mansard roof. While the old money built subtle brownstone mansions, the Jerome Mansion was built to dazzle. Its first two stories were clad in limestone, with the upper stories made of brick and contrasting stone. The interiors were lavishly decorated to impress all that entered. The amenities of the house included: a bowling alley, a library, a trophy room, an art gallery, a billiard room, and a bar (to name but a few!) Decorated in white and gold, the ballroom was unconventionally located over adjoining stables. However, it was still quite a sight, boasting two fountains: one that spouted champagne and another that spouted cologne! In between the stables and the main house, Jerome built a theater that could reportedly hold six hundred people. Even the stables were fitted with stained glass windows. The Jeromes were fervent entertainers with the height of society passing through their doors. All manner of fetes, buisness meetings, and celebrations occurred under Jerome's roof. One such gathering affects us to this day, on November 23, 1869, a meeting took place here that founded the Metropolitan Museum of Art. However, the Jerome family would move to Brooklyn less than ten years after it was built and the Jerome Mansion was leased to the Union League Club. A prestigious blue blood club born out of the civil war, the Union League began expensive renovations and added a seventh floor. It would be the first of a series of clubs to call the mansion home. Following the Union League, the University Club and Manhattan Club would both inhabit the Jerome Mansion in 1883 and 1899 respectively. It was during the Manhattan Club's tenure in the Jerome Mansion that the Manhattan Cocktail was invented at its bar. Having leased it for years, The Manhattan Club eventually purchased the mansion from the Jerome Estate in 1964, a year before it would be landmarked. However, with membership declining, the Manhattan Club wished to sell the mansion to pay down its debts. Filing suit, the Manhattan Club was able to prove they didn't have buyers and, in 1967, it was tragically demolished.

Madison Square ca. 1900 The Seven-Acre Madison Square, bounded by Fifth and Madison Avenues, Broadway, 23rd and 26th Streets, opened on May 10, 1847. Having served as a paupers' burying ground and a military parade ground before its nineteenth-century metamorphosis into a gracious park, the tract became the object of extensive improvements. Between 1847 and 1851, the Common Council voted funds to supply Madison Square with new grading and lawn seeding, and gas-fired street lamps. In 1857 a granite monument honoring General William Jenkins Worth, by Henry Kirke Brown 91819-1886), was installed on a small plot on Fifth Avenue opposite Madison Square. In 1876 two bronze statues are dedicated; one, the work of Augustus St. Gardens (1818-1907), honoring Admiral David G. Farragut, and another, by Randolph Rogers (1825-1892), in memory of William H. Seward. In 1867 a fountain spraying water from the Croton Aqueduct system was moved from City Hall Park to Madison Square. The handsome area rapidly became a stylish locale for the homes of wealthy New Yorkers. As with most fashionable New York neighborhoods, the infiltration of commerce into Madison Square forced its residents to seek ever-more-northerly residential outposts. By the 1890s a multitude of shops along the side streets and Sixth Avenue encroached on the elegant homes around the square. Construction of the Metropolitan Life Building in 1890-1893 and Stanford White's Madison Square Garden in 1890 (the "Garden" is the twin-turreted white building visible above the trees at the extreme right of the square) gave the square an increasingly commercial aspect.

Arches are everywhere in New York. From bridges, to memorials, and many a Beaux-Arts facade, the arch is a motif that can blends seamlessly into the city’s architectural fabric or stand out — triumphally — in a place of honor. Take a look:

In 1907, the president of the Metropolitan Life Insurance Company, John Rogers Hegeman, commissioned the firm Napoleon LeBrun and Sons to design a campanile-style tower for the expansion of the company headquarters. Construction began later that same year, and in 1909, the building opened, advertising the company's status as s the largest insurer in the world. With its slender shaft, high-pitched roof and lantern, the tower of the Metropolitan Life Insurance Company evokes the famed bell-tower of San Marco in Venice. First planned to be 658 feet, the final height stretched to 700 feet. Sheathed in white Tuckahoe Marble, the tower rises above Madison Square at 23rd Street and Madison Avenue where at night the "light that never fails" glows from its lantern, flashing the hour and quarter-hour. In 1960-61, the tower was subjected to an aggressive remodeling campaign in which most of the classical detail was stripped off, including balconies and a prominent cornice. The marble facade was replaced with sheer limestone panels so the Tower would match the modernized base. Today, the four clock-faces remain the only memory of the ornate facade, though, the proud tower still remains a defining element of the midtown skyline.

The gilded statue of Diana, Goddess of the Hunt, adorned the tower of Madison Square Garden and held watch over New York City for over three decades. She is arguably the most famous and recognizable work by sculptor Augustus Saint-Gaudens.

881 Broadway, ca. 1976. The massive building that runs from Broadway to Fifth Avenue along the whole of 19th Street (and also actually has a small mid block facade on 18th Street) was built over 15 years. Designed by Griffith Thomas, the original section of this building fronted Broadway and a small section of 19th Street. Constructed in 1868 in an ornate Second Empire style, Thomas extended the building along 19th in 1872 and had a second entrance on that facade added. At this time the original top of the building was removed for the construction of the double-story mansard roof. The building was once again extended in 1876 so that it reached all the way to 5th Avenue. (The 1883 addition which is a mid block facade on 18th Street was completed in a very different style and by a different architect.) The building was constructed and subsequently altered for the Arnold Constable dry goods company. The origins of this business date to 1825 and a storefront on Front Street. The firm grew and prospered and moved a number of times before purchasing the lot on 19th Street. Already one of the largest dry goods stores in the city in 1868, the additions to the building allowed for new departments (carpet, upholstery, wholesale) and created a massive department store. It was said to be "one of the largest business establishments in the world." The store remained in this location until 1914, when it moved uptown to 40th Street. In 1925 Arnold Constable merged with specialty retailer Stewart & Company and began expanding to the suburbs. The store finally closed its Fifth Avenue and 40th Street location in 1975. It would go on to become the location of the Mid Manhattan Branch of the New York Public Library.

12 West 23rd Street, date unknown. In 1870 the four-story mansion at 12 West 23rd Street was occupied by Benjamin Nathan and his family. Nathan was a wealthy Jewish stockbroker, descendant of the early Spanish and Portuguese 17th century Jewish arrivals to New York, and uncle of poet Emma Lazarus. The home at no. 12 was described by the New York Times as “one of the most elegant and spacious of the private residences of the City.” On the night of July 28 Nathan and two of his adult sons returned to the city, while the rest of the family remained at their rented vacation home in Morristown, New Jersey. That evening, while asleep in a makeshift bedroom on the second floor (owing to renovation work on the upper floors) Nathan was brutally murdered in his bed, bludgeoned to death. The diamonds and gold worn on his clothes were stolen as were items from the safe in the next room. Despite hefty rewards, thousands of tips, and the belief of many that Washington Nathan (the wild 22 year old son) was involved, the murder was never solved. The family, of course, moved out of the home. Over the next decade or so the once wealthy residential neighborhood was replaced with commercial tenants. The family continued to own the building, though finding a tenant in those early years after the murder was challenging given the notoriety of the address. By the 1890s the front of no. 12 had been covered by a cast iron facade and businesses finally began to occupy the building. Almost destroyed by a gas explosion in 1914, the building was restored and had a fifth floor added. Today the former mansion, now rusting cast iron-fronted commercial building, still stands.

Are you ready for a closeup? Try your hand at re-creating these historic photos at Madison Square Park! This challenge is only available to our iOS app users. If you don't yet have the Urban Archive App, download it here. Each location in this challenge has an address and a historic image tied to it. Check-in at each location by tapping the lock icon to the left of the clue. If you’re in the right place, it will turn green. Your challenge today is to take as many then-and-now photos as you can. Tap the image, and then the recreate button to line up the historical image with your present-day view. Once you’re happy with your photo, hit save to add it to your camera roll. Please share these photos with team@urbanarchive.nyc once you’ve completed the challenge. Happy snapping!

Broadway, north from 21st Street, ca. 1909. The entire two blocks in the foreground, from 21st to 23rd Streets, will be unchanged some twenty-seven years later, in 1936, except for a 12story loft building, which will occupy the clearing shown here in the block between 21st and 22nd Streets. This clearing is the result of the demolition of three four-story houses. In 1936 the Bancroft House will be the Hotel Courte; and the Hotel Bartholdi, on the S.E. corner of 23rd Street, will be the Bartholdi Building, remodeled into an office building. But during this period of twenty-seven years there will be no demolitions and, with the exception noted, no construction work -- a long period in New York

Flatiron Building ca. 1938 The Fuller Building, nicknamed Flatiron for its triangular shape, was built in 1902 at the scissor-like intersection of Broadway and Fifth Avenue. It was instantly famous, at first derided as an misshapen symbol of commercial greed and later extolled as an exhilarating symbol of modernity. Abbott photographed the Flatiron Building before the FAP project began and again in 1938. The first photograph, taken from the top floor of a six-story building on 25th Street, was a conventional postcard view, showing the whole building amidst bustling Madison Square traffic. The second photograph was more innovative. Standing close, Abbott pointed her camera upward, transforming the foreshortened building into an arrow soaring above its neighbors. A modern high-rise on the corner of Broadway and 23rd Street has blunted the Flatiron’s impact from afar. A 1991 cleaning of layers of soot has exposed its white limestone surface.

Since 2004, Madison Square Park Conservancy has commissioned some of the most distinguished artists of our time to realize temporary public art projects in the 6.2 acre park. Public art has the capacity to challenge, energize, inspire, and provoke people outside of designated indoor art spaces of museums and galleries. The fascination is heightened when art is placed in a public park. Here, art is vulnerable, accessible, and open to the environment and the minds of visitors from all over the world. The works on view are seen in the context of complete democracy: available to all, no admission fee, no threshold to cross. At Madison Square Park, artists have challenged themselves to create with these factors in mind. Below, we look at a few of the commissioned projects and reflect on their lasting impact.

In the Gilded Age, this was the area where America went to shop. If today, New York's iconic shopping district is midtown Manhattan, in the 1880s and 1890s it was Ladies' Mile, the area extending between 15th and 24th streets from Broadway to Sixth Avenue. As a popular guidebook noted in 1892: "Ill fares the rural or provincial purse whose owner ventures before these attractive windows, extending for miles on miles, ever diversified and varied." Indeed between just 19th and 22nd streets on Broadway you could purchase a French velvet or antique Oriental rug at the carpet emporium, W. & J. Sloane (now ABC Carpet & Home); a silver punch bowl carved with twisted vine handles and lion paw feet at the silver maker Gotham Manufacturing Company; and a bespoke or ready-made suit at Brooks Brothers.

From the 1870's-90's, approximately 20,000 French immigrants lived in South Village and SoHo area. By the end of the 19th century, most of that colony had relocated to the Chelsea area.

Today’s Madison Square North neighborhood reflects successive waves of development, the earliest dating to the year Madison Square Park was created—1847. Until very recently, the neighborhood comprised almost exclusively buildings that pre-date 1930. From the park’s opening through the 1920s, Madison Square North evolved from being a fashionable residential enclave to an entertainment district of hotels, clubs, restaurants and theaters, to a commercial hub of offices and mercantile loft buildings. Examples of each are still prominent today, often in startling juxtaposition. The 19th century saw a northward development trend, as new residential neighborhoods were established in response to growing commerce to the south. This pattern repeated itself numerous times up the length of Manhattan. From roughly 1850 to 1865, Madison Square North was fashionable with the city’s elite. Such boldface families as the Stokes, Livingstons, Vanderbilts, and Stewarts (of A.T. Stewart department store fame) were residents. Rowhouse construction, largely built in the popular Italianate style, began first along Broadway and spread to the side streets. Extant rowhouses from this period include two on West 24th Street and four on West 29th Street. After the Civil War, the neighborhood became host to a number of theaters, restaurants, men’s clubs and hotels. The trailblazer in the latter category was the Fifth Avenue Hotel, completed in 1858 on the northwest corner of 23rd Street and Fifth Avenue. The hotel was a social, cultural and political hub until its closure in 1908, at which point it was replaced by the commercial structure at 200 Fifth Avenue. Many hotels also functioned as “bachelor flats” or “apartment hotels” for extended stays. One of the city’s first apartment houses, constructed in 1872 after designs by the noted New York architect George B. Post, still stands at 251 Fifth Avenue. The prevalence of entertainment and commercial ventures on Broadway made it a bustling night-life district. Thus, beginning in the 1890s, Broadway from about 13th to 45th Street became one of the first thoroughfares to be illuminated by electric street lamps and billboards, leading to its lasting moniker “The Great White Way.” By the 1890s and early 1900s, industries including photography, architecture, construction and banking planted roots in the area, constructing commercial high-rises designed in styles such as Gothic Revival, Beaux-Arts and Art Deco. Many of these buildings were also constructed for the wholesale garment industry to initially support the Ladies’ Mile shopping district to the south, which, until they moved to Herald Square in the early 1900s, was home to the R. H. Macy & Co. and B. Altman & Co. department stores. The neighborhood’s growth was spurred on by nationwide industrial trends for ready-to-wear clothing, and later, wholesale household décor. This period of prolific development left a lasting impact, as mercantile loft buildings remain the area’s architectural hallmark. In 2001, the Landmarks Preservation Commission designated the Madison Square North Historic District, 96 buildings from roughly 25th to 29th Streets between Sixth and Madison Avenues. Community members and preservationists are advocating for an extension to the district, to encompass roughly 374 buildings from 23rd to 34th Streets and Sixth to Park Avenues. This area includes the surviving buildings of Tin Pan Alley on West 28th Street, where the American popular music publishing industry was headquartered from roughly 1890 to 1910.

Trinity Chapel, ca. 1914. Dedicated in 1855 as the uptown (25th Street was uptown at that point) chapel of Trinity Church, the structure was designed by the same architect as the mother church, Richard Upjohn. The brownstone edifice was the venue of the1885 marriage of Edith Jones and Edward Wharton. Edith Wharton later used the church as a setting in her novel 'Age of Innocence." The church suffered in the early 20th century from the same action that had created it, the movement of parishioners uptown. In 1942, the Episcopal Diocese sold the complex to the growing Serbian community. Rechristened the Cathedral of St. Sava, it became the first Serbian Orthodox church on the east coast. The later 20th century saw some of the Protestant ornamentation replaced with Byzantine-style stained glass and Serbia iconography. On the evening of May 1, 2016, the day of Orthodox Easter celebrations, the church suffered a devastating fire. While the roof and most of the interior was completely destroyed, the stone walls of the church remained. As of December of 2017 the work was being completed on the church to clear out some of the damaged interior and erect scaffolding for the eventual reconstruction of the building.

Metropolitan Life Tower ca. 1916 Completed in 1909, the Metropolitan Life Insurance Company tower, on the east side of Madison Square at 24th Street, at 657 feet, was the tallest building in the world for four years. The four-faced clock on the tower is 26-1/2 feet in diameter and the dials are two stories high. Before the tower's completion, during the 1908 presidential election, a large searchlight was placed on top of it that displayed the election results for miles around.

Kabo Corset Company ca. 1915 The Chicago-based Kabo Corset Company had its New York offices at 800 Sixth Avenue near West 45th Street. In Bowman's Corset and Brassiere Trade directory of 1920, Kabo was listed as "manufacturers of back lace, front lace, maternity and sport corsets, also corsets waists, brassieres, all types, garters and sanitary specialities."

With the onset of the Gilded Age, New Yorkers began looking for the best places to outfit themselves and their home. Department stores served that need and few did so better than Siegel-Cooper. This story is a preview of our Spring Retail exhibition.