Columbus Circle ca. 1936 From the ninth floor of the General Motors Building on West 58th Street, Abbott photographed Columbus Circle through the back of the Schenley Rye neon sign mounted on the New York Journal Building. The Circle’s statue of Columbus, erected in 1892 to commemorate the quadricentennial of his ocean voyage, occupies the center of the photograph but is dwarfed by an even more popular landmark, the Coca-Cola sign standing atop the American Circle Building. The dominance of the commercial signs over the Columbus statue emphasizes modern advertising’s subversion of traditional civic imagery. In a variant image, Abbott adopted a horizontal format and boldly superimposed the Schenley sign over the entire cityscape, totally obscuring the panorama. In 1964, Huntington Hartford’s iconoclastic Museum of Modern Art replaced the New York Journal Building. Two years later, the 44-story Gulf and Western Tower replaced the American Circle Building along with the much-loved Coca-Cola sign.

"Broadway, west side, from 60th to 61st Streets. The building in the foreground was built two years before this as a three-story building. Nine stories have just been added, to make it a twelve-story building. Construction work, both exterior and interior, was completed within three months, December 26, 1924."

Lincoln Center, 1986. Lincoln Center, a world-class performing arts center, has had close connections to the LGBT community since planning began in the mid-1950s. It was also the location of the first AIDS Walk, sponsored by the Gay Men’s Health Crisis, in 1986.

Catholic Apostolic Church ARCHITECT: Francis H. Kimball DATE: 1885-86 STYLE: Terra-cotta The Catholic Apostolic Church, built in 1885-86, was one of architect Francis H. Kimball’s earliest independent commissions in New York City. Kimball had previously worked mostly in Hartford, Connecticut, where he supervised the construction of the Collegiate Gothic style buildings at Trinity College designed by English architect-theorist William Burges, and where the foremost leaders of the Church were residents and would have known his work. Kimball was in the forefront of architects in using exterior architectural terra0cotta in New York during this period, and the Catholic Apostolic Church is significant in the history of American terra-cotta. The facade of the church is dominated by a central rose window within a pointed-arched surround, one of the most complex elements yet attempted in terra-cotta in the United States, and the sculptural ornament also incorporates iconography referring to Apostle-Evangelists and angels.

Columbus Circle ca. 1918 Max Schreyer traveled around the United States and Europe making a name for himself by riding a bicycle down a wooden chute, launching himself into the air and landing in a tank of water. Photographer William Hassler was there for the event at Broadway and 59th Street on November 27, 1918. Schreyer succeeded on that day, but six months later, performing in Van Cortlandt Park, his famous “Leap of Death” finally proved fatal

John Theurer Wagon Works, ca. 1913. A surviving piece of Hell’s Kitchen’s industrial heritage, the former Theurer building dates to about 1913, when a July edition of The Carriage Monthly announced: “John Theurer Wagon Works, Inc., announce that they have opened a new and modernly equipped plant for the manufacture and repair of wagons, trucks and commercial automobile bodies.”

When one speaks about the historic buildings of New York City, images of the stately brick rowhouses of Brooklyn, the cast-iron office buildings of SoHo, and the elaborate mansions of 5th Avenue come to mind. But the interesting architecture of the city is not limited to buildings constructed before 1900 in a classical style. Buildings built in the modern styles in the middle of the 20th century dot the streetscape and range from tall office buildings, to transportation structures, to private residences. These Mid-Century Modern buildings with their unique shapes, unusual massing, and uncommon materials (at least uncommon compared to architecture that came before) stand out from the earlier masonry buildings and the contemporary glassy structures that surround them.

144-140 West 64th Street, ca. 1911. The Amsterdam Houses are a 13-building public housing complex that covers 61st Street to 64th Street between West End and Amsterdam Avenues. Planned prior to the Second World War, they were begun in 1947. In the process of construction many rowhouses were demolished (including the two in this photograph).

Metropolitan Opera House, ca. 1970. Opened in 1966 to replace the original 1883 Metropolitan Opera House at Broadway and 39th Street, this Mid-Century Modern building was designed by Wallace K. Harrison. Plans for a new opera house were discussed as early as the 1920s and plans were made to include a new venue into the development of Rockefeller Center, but financial troubles related to the stock market crash of 1929 halted those plans. In the early 1960s the Met and the New York Philharmonic Society commissioned Harrison, one of the architects in charge of Rockefeller Center, to create their new home and the centerpiece for the larger Lincoln Center complex. The distinctive facade is rendered in a white limestone, and its main entrance (seen here) includes five concrete arches and a stylish glass and bronze facade. Visible though the large glass front, the lobby is decorated with two massive murals by Marc Chagall. The stage technology in the auditorium is some of the most complex in the world. To create the magic of the opera the mechanisms include seven hydraulic, double decked elevators that are 60-feet-wide, three slipstages (that can accommodate a complete stage set), and a 60-foot turntable.

Workers inspect the site of the Ninth Avenue El derailment on September 11, 1905. At upper right is the 53rd Street spur, leading to the Sixth Avenue El, where the derailed train was mistakenly switched.

The monument to Christopher Columbus in what we now call Columbus Circle was one of the dozens of monuments erected in the Americas and Europe to mark the 400th anniversary of Columbus’ voyage, but this one was especially significant to New York’s growing Italian American population. Led by Carlo Barsotti, publisher of the newspaper Il Progresso Italo-Americano, the Italian American community raised funds and paid for the monument itself. At the time, Columbus, born in Genoa, was perhaps the most widely celebrated figure of Italian descent in the United States. As Italian immigrants faced discrimination and struggled to forge an identity in their new home, many found in Columbus a symbol of both Italian heritage and American pride. At the unveiling, on October 12, 1892, Luigi Palma di Cesnola addressed the 10,000 people in attendance: "The countrymen of Columbus, the Italians resident and citizens in the United States, conscious indeed that his true monument is this great land, its institutions, its prosperity, its blessings, its lessons of advance for all humanity, have yet desired to testify, to at least the present generation, their full and unfailing sense of their great peculiar debt. They have procured, in contributions great and small, but uniformly large in spirit, the execution of this monument; and they have erected and presented it in token of their affection and gratitude to this great and beloved country; the country in which they have found a permanent home, a more congenial form of government, and better and freer facilities honorably to earn their livelihood."

The Hearst Magazine Building was designed by Joseph Urban and George B. Post for William Randolph Hearst between 1926 and 1927. The building would be Hearst's many publication's headquarters in Columbus Circle, what he considered the up-and-coming theater district in Manhattan. The project marks Hearst's ambitions to turn Columbus Circle into an urban center parallel to Times Square. Hearst moved to New York in 1895 after a successful overhaul of his father's publication, the San Francisco Examiner. His techniques of yellow-journalism made the paper sell quickly, and Hearst carried this style of work to his newest purchase in New York, the Morning Journal. He quickly outran his competitor, Joseph Pulitzer, by decreasing the price of his paper and eventually picking up a share of Pulitzer's employees. When he wanted to design a new headquarters for the Journal and his 72 other acquired companies, he hired the architect of Pulitzer's World Building, George B. Post. Hearst had amassed 150 million dollars in profit by 1926 when he set out to build his grand headquarters. Joseph Urban, the other architect of the project, was a Viennese theater designer who had decorated the Abdeen Palace in Cairo when he was just 19 years old before studying under secessionist architect Otto Wagner. Urban had been introduced to Hearst after designing the set of "Follies," which he had seen years prior. George B. Post, the "commercial architect" of the project was to guide it to become the grand and tall structure Hearst had desired for his company. The building is moored with Art Deco, Secessionist, and Baroque tones, as well as Classical allusions. It encompasses an entire city block. Its six "sculpture groups" decorate the fourth floor of the building, and were designed by German immigrant Henry Kreis. The allegorical figures are meant as representations of the disciplines which the building housed: Comedy and Tragedy, Music and Art, Sport and Industry, and Printing and Sciences. The building's auditorium would showcase a variety of musical and theatrical events, as per Hearst's interest. The six-story building had been planned from the beginning as a base to a larger tower. This is reflected in the structure of the building and the fact that it contains six elevator shafts - double what was typical for a building of this height. The tower addition was prepared by George B. Post in 1946, but the plans were never realized. It wouldn't be until 2004 that a tower, designed by Sir Norman Foster, would top off the Hearst Magazine Building.

"Tenth Ave., west side, north from West 58th to 59th Streets, showing occupying this block front, the Haaren High School. This structure formerly housed De Witt Clinton High School, 1937." The ornate building on Tenth Avenue was built by C.B.J Snyder, the BOE Superintendent of Buildings, in 1906. It originally housed DeWitt Clinton High School, which had previously been located in Greenwich Village. The H- shaped school (a Snyder design innovation) was built in the Flemish Renaissance style, with large gables, dormers, high-pitched roofs, and red brick trimmed with limestone. DeWitt Clinton High School moved to the Bronx in 1929 and the building then became Haaren High School, a vocational institution, which lasted through the 1970s. The building underwent a renovation in 1998 which converted the courtyard into a glass atrium. Today it is Haaren Hall on the campus of John Jay College.

In October 1892 the Italian government dedicated this granite monument with its depiction of the Nina, Pinta and Santa Maria, to the people of America. The statue of Columbus which now tops the monument was placed there two years later. The Tichenor Riding School, prominent in this card, was one of the many Upper West Side riding stables whose close proximity to Central Park made the location ideal for horseback riding. The building was razed in the late 1960s.

Church of Paulist Fathers, ca. 1910. The history of the Church of St. Paul the Apostle provides a case study of the birth and growth of a missionary parish in the years immediately before and following the Civil War. The parish had its origins in an 1858 agreement with Archbishop John Hughes, in which the new Paulist Fathers community was given the responsibility for a territory initially extending on the west side of Manhattan from 59th Street to 109th Street. Isaac T. Hecker, C.S.P. (1819-1888), a New York-born Catholic convert of German heritage, was both the first pastor of St. Paul's and the first leader of the Paulists. In 1858, Hecker received Papal authorization to found the first male religious community organized within the Archdiocese of New York and the United States, the Congregation of Missionary Priests of St. Paul the Apostle (better known as the Paulist Fathers). Establishing both a community and a parish required immediate fundraising. The Paulists sought pledges toward the erection of a parish church and community house, with an initial contribution from Archbishop John Hughes, and the largest donation coming from Isaac Hecker's brother George, developer of "Hecker's Self-Rising Flour." The Paulist Fathers acquired land at 59th Street, west of Ninth Avenue, which remains the parish center. As the building rose from its foundations using stone recycled from the old Croton Aqueduct, the Greenwich Elevated Railroad reached Ninth Avenue and 59th Street. In 1876, the north boundary of the parish was reduced from 109th to 75th Street. The Catholic population of the neighborhood increased, until it peaked at some 27,000 in the 1890s. In 1890, artist John Lafarge directed the redecoration of the interior of St. Paul the Apostle. New altars were fashioned from rare Numidian marble, Mexican onyx, and porphyry. Derricks, with their blocks and tackle, were used to lift the altars into position. Harper's noted that the church never closed; work proceeded while "service at St. Paul the apostle never ceases." In the early 20th century, the Paulist Fathers' Church was known for its music as well as for its preaching. Its choir of men and boys achieved a national reputation when the Paulist Choristers toured widely and performed regularly on the Paulist radio station WLWL. Seats for festival Masses such as the Christmas Eve Midnight Mass were reserved for ticket holders.

The Wm. Fox Corp. building at 55th Street and 10th Avenue, 1921. Construction on the Fox building, a $2.5 million endeavor supervised personally by founder William Fox, began in 1919. The building was both a film production facility, with fireproof construction specifically designed to accommodate hazards associated with flammable filmmaking materials, and the corporate headquarters of the Fox Film Corporation. The 1929 stock market crash and litigation over an unsuccessful bid to acquire the Loew’s chain of theaters left William Fox bankrupt. He lost control of the Fox Film Corp in a 1930 hostile takeover; even so, 20th Century Fox continues to bear his name. Today, the former Fox building on 10th Avenue is the Independence High School.

Phipps Houses, May 28, 1944. Henry Phipps was a steel magnate and the partner of Andrew Carnegie in the Carnegie Company. In 1901 he sold his holdings in the firm to J. P. Morgan for more than $50 million. With these funds, he built himself a couple of homes in New York, one more splendid than the last. But he also used this money to establish a fund for the creation of model tenements to be called the Phipps Houses. These tenements (four six-story buildings) on 63rd Street were the second project to utilize the fund. Completed in 1906 or 1907 the apartments were rented to African Americans, who suffered increasingly from housing discrimination. The look of these plainly designed buildings (the work of architects Whitfield & King) differed from the earlier Phipps Houses on 31st Street, which had varied brickwork, overhanging tile roofs, and elaborate central roof pergolas. The Phipps Houses organization still exists, but their earliest project, including this still extant one, were sold off to finance other developments in the mid century.

Childs Restaurant, 1939. The first Childs Restaurant was opened in 1889 by brothers Samuel S. Childs and William Childs, on the ground level of the Merchants Hotel (current site of One Liberty Plaza, also previously the Singer Building), at 41 Cortlandt Street. By 1932 there were more than 20 Childs Restaurants in the five boroughs. The location at 300 West 59th Street was leased to the Childs Company in 1910 and occupied by the restaurant by September 1911. This location was well-known by the gay community in the early 20th century. The convenient location between the theatre district and Central Park, as well as its reputation for a tolerance of diverse patrons, made it popular among gays who were forced to hide their nature in most public venues. It was also a busy pre-dawn spot for actors, writers, and prizefighters, who toiled late into the evenings nearby. The restaurant closed after 42 years in December of 1953. It was mourned by many of its regulars and long-time employees. The restaurant building and its neighbors were demolished and replaced in 1956 by the New York Coliseum, a Modern style convention center.

Grace Institute ca. 1929 Founded in 1897 with funds provided by former mayor William R. Grace and his family, Grace Institute opened in 1898 in a remodeled mansion on West 60th Street. The Sisters of Charity provided instruction within a nonsectarian framework. By its second year of operation, the Institute enrolled 500 girls and women in cooking, sewing, millinery, stenography, and bookkeeping classes. Although no longer administered by the Sisters of Charity, Grace Institute continues to provide practical tuition-free education for women.

Ninth Avenue El derailment at 53rd Street. September 11, 1905. At a few minutes after 7 a.m., a downtown-bound train on the Ninth Avenue El plunged from the tracks at the corner of 53rd Street, ultimately killing 13 and injuring 48, in what was then the worst subway accident in city history. The wreck occurred at the point where downtown-bound Ninth and Sixth Avenue tracks diverged, with Sixth Avenue trains making a 90 degree turn East along 53rd Street. Ordinarily, the approaching downtown train would display a placard indicating to the towerman whether to activate the switch for the curve. In this case a miscommunication between the motorman and the towerman (who may not have been at his post) sent the train into the curve at more than three times its speed limit. The motorman braked, but was unable to prevent two cars from careening over the edge of the trestle. One car slammed into the ground while the other came to rest partially suspended by the second floor window of no. 798 Ninth Avenue. The New York Times described the scene: “The third car of the train, hurled forward by the weight of those behind it, was shoved over the elevated structure and its forward end was forced through the window of the apartment of Mrs. James G. Crowe, who lives above the drug store. The car rocked for a moment and seemed as if about to fall into the street. Then it settled, its forward end held by the sill of the window and the fire escape, and hung suspended like a bridge across the street. The frantic passengers clambered out of the windows and along the roof into the apartments of Mrs. Crowe, and thence to the street.”

Leon Lowenstein Academic Building, Fordham University Lincoln Center Campus, ca. 1974. This 14-story Modernist building was constructed as the second building of the Fordham University Lincoln Center campus in 1969. The facade is raw concrete and the repeated rectangular windows give the building a utilitarian look, described by one modern writer as, " look\[ing] like a prison or socialist government building...uninviting, boring and generally ugly eye sore." Though it should be noted that many a modern building has inspired equal or more vitriolic criticism.

My Archive Spring 2019 "This is a photo of my mother that was taken in Central Park in 1974. My parents had just begun dating." —Melissa D'Lando

Are you ready for a closeup? Try your hand at re-creating these historic photos at Columbus Circle! This challenge is only available to our iOS app users. If you don't yet have the Urban Archive App, download it here. Each location in this challenge has an address and a historic image tied to it. Check-in at each location by tapping the lock icon to the left of the clue. If you’re in the right place, it will turn green. Your challenge today is to take as many then-and-now photos as you can. Tap the image, and then the recreate button to line up the historical image with your present-day view. Once you're happy with your photo, hit save to add it to your camera roll. Please share these photos with team@urbanarchive.nyc once you've completed the challenge. Happy snapping!

American Circle Building, February 10, 1936. By the 1920s William Randolph Hearst was the largest property owner in the area surrounding Columbus Circle. He had purchased a plot of land in 1915 on the north side of the circle. The lot between Central Park West and Broadway was formerly occupied by a horse-riding academy and a ballfield. Hearst, unsurprisingly had grand plans for the lot. Envisioning a 30-story office tower, the American Circle building topped at out two stories when the U.S. entered the First World War. The renderings for the larger building exist and the architect James C. Green had planned a five store base with a soaring tower. The two-story resulting building did have an ornate terra cotta facade and interior, giving it the look of a cathedral. Despite not matching up to its original plans, it did become well known in its own right. The American Circle Building was home to WINS Radio for many years and on the roof of the building (depicted here) sat a large Coca-Cola thermometer, well known to the neighborhood. In the 1960s the building was demolished and replaced with 1 Central Park West, a 43-story office tower. That building would go through a massive overhaul in the 1990s before opening as the Tr\*mp International Hotel and Tower in 1997.

Horn & Hardart Automat, February 10, 1936. Horn and Hardart was Philadelphia-founded food service company. They were the first non-Europeans to receive patented vending machines from Max Sielaff's Automat factory in Berlin. The first Automats were opened in Philadelphia and New York City in 1902 and 1912, respectively. The pre-packaged foods were extremely popular, especially during the Depression. By 1950 more than 50 Horn & Hardart restaurants were operating in New York City. Later they branched out to sit-down waitress service restaurants, cafeterias, and bakery shops. The men in this photograph could not only find cakes and pie at the Automat but other staples including macaroni and cheese, baked beans, and creamed spinach.

The monument at Columbus Circle's dedication was a moment of triumph for New York City's immigrant Italian population.

Hearst Magazine Building ARCHITECT: Joseph Urban; George B. Post & Sons DATE: 1927-28 STYLE: Art Deco Stretching a full block along the west side of Eighth Avenue between 56th and 57th Streets, the building remains the expectant six-story base of an office tower that was not constructed until 2006. It is a stylistic synthesis of Art Deco ornament, Secessionist influence and Baroque theatricality. Further enriched by classical allusions which are both imposing and dramatic, the building survives as a relic of unrealized plans to transform greater Columbus Circle into New York’s new cultural and commercial center as well as the corporate headquarters of Hearst’s vast publishing empire.

Take a walk in the beautiful Upper West Side. Start at Columbus Circle and discover the cultural and religious landmarks and the extravagant apartment buildings of this affluent neighborhood.

General Motors Building, 1937. The General Motors Building was designed by Edward Durrell Stone & Associates with Emery Roth & Sons at the height of the International Modernism architectural era. At the time of construction, the tower was one of the only in Manhattan to occupy a whole city block. When the building opened in 1968, it replaced the much-loved Savoy Plaza Hotel, which stood on the site since 1927. Over the past few years, the General Motors Building has undergone many changes. In 1998, the company sold its office, making it home of CBS's The Eary Show from its inception in 1999 to its end in 2012. The building was sold again in 2003 to the Macklowe Organization for a record $1.4 billion and again in 2008 for $2.9 billion– the largest real estate transaction of that year. While the building's design has many critics, its location on Fifth Avenue and next to Central Park is what makes it one of the most enviable properties in New York City. In 2015, the tower again broke records by becoming the first commercial property in the city to command starting rents of more than $200 per square foot.

Laren Garage, ca. 1937.

1774 Broadway, the old General Motors Building, unknown date.

Church of St. Paul the Apostle ARCHITECT: Jeremiah O’Rourke DATE: 1875-85 STYLE: Medieval Revival The Church of St. Paul the Apostle is one of the largest and most monumental religious buildings in Manhattan. It was built for the Missionary Society of St. Paul the Apostle, commonly called the Paulist Fathers, between 1875 and 1885 and is an austere and imposing Medieval Revival style structure, reflecting both Gothic and Romanesque sources.

“Men aboard a coach from the New York Herald City Beautiful Campaign. They are located at 54th Street & 10th Avenue.” April 29, 1900. On Sunday, April 29, 1900, the New York Herald ran a full-page feature (including the above photo) framed as a conversation on the topic “How Can New York Be Made The City Beautiful?” between panelists including the President and Landscape Architect of the Board of Park Commissioners, a member of the Municipal Art Society, and a Danish “Traveller and Sociological xpert.” The headline references City Beautiful, a turn of the century urban planning movement that aimed to improve the living conditions in cities by instituting new aesthetic principles to govern urban architecture, including the promotion of monumental municipal buildings.

Broadway, west side, north from 61st Street, ca. 1895. Broadway, north of Columbus Circle, was called the "Boulevard" during the second half of the 19th century. It was a favorite street for cyclists. The Boulevard was "opened" in 1869 after being specifically designed. Modeled after the Champs Elysées in Paris, the thoroughfare was a 60 foot-wide right-of-way, with double rows of elm trees on each broad sidewalk, and 30 foot-wide landscaped medians with pedestrian walkways in the middle. The Empire Hotel (visible at center), was on the southwest corner of 63rd Street. It was replaced in 1923 by a larger (15-story) hotel, topped by the now iconic 'Hotel Empire' red neon sign.

Brooklyn-born Aaron Copland (1900-1990), known as the “Dean of American Music,” was one of the most influential and popular figures of 20th-century classical music. He grew up in an apartment at 628 Washington Avenue (demolished) in Prospect Heights, Brooklyn and heard his first symphony at the Brooklyn Academy of Music (BAM) when he was 16. In between extensive travels abroad, Copland lived in a number of Manhattan apartments, including his first at 135 West 74th Street from 1924 to 1926. His most significant city residence was a modest tenth-floor studio – furnished with a piano – at the Hotel Empire from 1936 to 1947. He also rented and worked in a nearby loft at 113 West 63rd Street (demolished for Lincoln Center). During this incredibly prolific period, Copland completed a number of important works, some of which are among the cornerstones of 20th-century American music. A selection of compositions completed while in residence at the Hotel Empire include Billy the Kid (1938), Fanfare for the Common Man (1942), Lincoln Portrait (1942), Rodeo (1942), Appalachian Spring (1944), and Symphony No. 3 (1944-46). Copland was given New York Music Critics Circle Awards for the latter two works; Appalachian Spring, composed for choreographer Martha Graham’s ballet in 1944, also earned him a Pulitzer Prize in Music.

Sheffield Farms plant, 1938. Sheffield Farms was a milk company that in the first half of the 20th century became one of the largest dairy companies in the world. They also sold 20% of all of the milk purchased within New York City. Sheffield was established over a few years in the 1880s, as L. B. Halsey got involved in his wife's family butter business and then expanded it a larger scale dairy trade. In 1939 the company erected a plant on the West Side, consisting of a large three story (plus massive basement and sub-basement) plant and a six-story office building. By 1952 the operations at the plant were diminishing as the company moved their processing elsewhere. After a double sale, the complex was purchased by the television network CBS for its broadcast center, which remains in the space today.

As the Great Depression wore on, the Socialist Party organized protesters who demonstrated against unemployment and demanded immediate government aid. The Forward called for its readers to march in support of this demonstration by publishing the date and locale atop its masthead.