The Chrysler Building, the Empire State, 30 Rock, and other skyscrapers adorn the skyline. At street level the solitude of the Public Library, and the glitz of Fifth Avenue. And underground, Grand Central Terminal ushers commuters in and out of the city. Take a walk amongst the sights of Midtown East.

New York Central Building/Helmsley Building ARCHITECT: Warren & Wetmore DATE: 1927-29 STYLE: Beaux-Arts, Skyscraper The New York Central Building is the skyscraping counterpart of Grand Central Terminal. It was designed by the same architects in the same materials and Beaux-Arts style, simultaneously developing some of the depot’s most innovative circulation systems. Swallowing Park Avenue traffic and thereby relieving congestion around the terminal, the building functions as an open gate to the “Gateway to a Continent.” With a distinction all but unique in a grid patterned Manhattan, it has a double focus, as powerful by day as it is dramatic by night.

MetLife Building, ca. 1995. The MetLife Building first opened in 1963 as the Pan Am Building, the then-headquarters of Pan American World Airways. At the time of its opening, the 59-story skyscraper was one of the largest office buildings in the world. While commemorated for its size, the building itself has long faced opposition. It became highly controversial, even while in the stage of design because it was originally planned as a reconstruction project in conjunction with a Grand Central Terminal renovation. Given its Park Avenue location and implications on aesthetic, those who protested its construction also expressed concern over the building's imposing modern design and impact on the streetscape. In 1962, the writer Wolf Von Eckhardt in The New Republic even called the structure ''conspicuous for its ugliness and arrogant disregard for its surroundings.'' The next year Ada Louise Huxtable, architecture critic of The New York Times, called it ''gigantically second rate.'' In 1981, the building was purchased by the Metropolitan Life Insurance Company, and its designation changed to the MetLife Building by early 1993.

William Wilgus, New York Central Railroad's largely self-taught chief engineer, was the mastermind behind Grand Central Terminal's innovative engineering technology. With the plan for electrification and the sinking of the railroad tracks below grade, while building the new modern terminal, Wilgus also convinced railroad officials to commercialize the air above the new street-level decking. In leasing the area above the tracks to developers, the Railroad could increase its profits and create a bustling business district that surrounded, supported, and benefited from Grand Central Terminal. Terminal City, as it was called, began to develop even before GCT was complete in 1913. Between 1909 when the Grand Central Post Office opened and the early 1930s when the Depression largely halted construction, the neighborhood boomed with hotels, apartment hotels, private clubs, and office buildings. Many of these structures were designed by Warren & Wetmore, one of the two architectural firms that created Grand Central. Most of the best-known hotels of Terminal City, including the Biltmore, Roosevelt, and the Commodore, were constructed by the mid 1910s, while the office buildings, including the Graybar and New York Central Buildings, were largely completed in the 1920s. This walk does not propose to be a complete list of all Terminal City development. It does not include any post-World War II constructions and it concerns itself ONLY with some of the Terminal City structures that are still extant. Some of the buildings will be easily recognizable, while others, though technically the same structure, bear no resemblance to their former selves. So lace up some comfortable shoes and let's get exploring.

New York Central Building, 1929. Considered by many the crowning achievement of Terminal City, the New York Central Building wears the honor well, with its pyramidal roof topped by a copper-clad lantern. Completed in 1929 to the designs of Warren & Wetmore (one of their final New York commissions) the headquarters for the New York Central Railroad Company stood 172.5 meters tall. The grand building was rendered in the Beaux Arts style, though by the time of its completion, architecture in the city had moved on, and many critics felt the building was retrograde (though it nicely complemented the Terminal itself). Because the building straddles Park Avenue and creates a physical (and visual) termination point of the street, the 35-story structure was designed with both pedestrian and vehicular arcades to facilitate movement through the building. The railroad sold the building in the 1950s during a period of financial woes. It was purchased in 1977 by real estate mogul Harry Helmsley and was unapologetically renamed the Helmsley Building. During the ensuing "renovation" all of the decorative details on the building, including the sculptures, were coated with a layer of gold paint. The building was sold again in 1998 (with the requirement that the name remains) and a 2002 renovation project removed the paint from the decorative brass and stone surfaces.

New York Central Building (now Helmsley Building) Interior ARCHITECT: Warren & Wetmore DATE: 1927-29 STYLE: Beaux-Arts The interior survives as an integral part of the planned enclave known as Terminal City. It functions as a through-corridor between 45th and 46th Streets, and it presents an excellent example of axial Beaux-Arts planning. Construction of the lobby in between two vehicular tunnels and over double-layer railroad tracks required extraordinary engineering solutions. It reflects the railroad’s imperial prowess in its lavish appointments. The well-maintained surfaces, fixtures, elevator alcoves and cabs comprise one of the finest Beaux-Arts lobbies in New York.

Park Avenue Malls, 1934. These patches of green were originally fenced in shrubs that were planted to obscure the view of railroad vents. From 1894 until 1920, the Park Avenue Association formed a coalition that would totally cover the unsightly vents and eventually receive funding from private donors to plant over 7,000 trees in the malls. Flowers were added to the narrow plots by 1946. In 1969, the Parks Department hired landscape architect Clara Coffey to redesign the malls. She removed the fencing and tall hedges which disrupted the view of the well-maintained little gardens, which no longer hid subway vents. Today, the Carnegie Hill Neighbors and Fund for Park Avenue maintain the Mall and host an annual tree lighting ceremony at its intersection with 91st Street.