17 East 128th Street ca. 1864 This charming building is one of the few surviving wood frame houses in Harlem, built when Harlem was still a rural village separate from New York City. Designed with Second Empire and Italianate elements by an unknown architect, the house is clad in wood clapboard and features a full-width porch and a slate mansard roof. The house stands as a reminder of Harlem’s early history before being annexed to the city in 1873. 17 East 128th Street is a designated New York City Individual Landmark .

Gus Hill's Minstrels, 1935. Gus Hill (born Gustave Metz) was vaudeville performer who was originally known for his juggling of large pins, called Indian clubs. Hill became a burlesque and vaudeville impresario. He founded the Columbia Amusement Company and was the president of the American Burlesque Association. The building seen here was constructed circa 1869. The Minstrels likely performed in a space within the building, which as various times also hosted political meetings and a gymnasium. The unseen ground floor of this large structure included a garage, a Chinese laundry, a paint store, a drugstore, a produce stand, and a restaurant.

2002–2008 5th Avenue Designed by Christian Brand 1868 These Italianate brownstone houses are survivors of the early development that started in Harlem beginning in the 1860s but was temporarily halted because of the Panic of 1873 and the economic depression that followed. They predate the oldest buildings in the designated Mount Morris Park Historic District and are virtually intact.

Renamed in honor of Marcus Garvey in 1973, the park was built largely as a green space for Boss Tweed's Tammany Hall cronies, many of whom lived uptown by the 1860s. The land for the park had been purchased by the city in 1839, but landscaping was long delayed. Its design was eventually supervised by Ignaz A. Pilat, who would later serve as an able associate of Frederick Law Olmsted during the creation of Central Park.

125th Street Branch, NYPL, July 18, 1928. Constructed as the Harlem Branch in 1904, the library on East 15th Street is a McKim, Mead & White building. It was given its current designation when a new library was named the Harlem Branch upon completion in 1909. (That branch is on West 124th Street.) The three-story facade is of an Italian Renaissance palazzo style. The semi- circular decorative sections over the second floor windows (called tympanum) depict iconography of classical architecture such as laurels and anchors. The one over the center window depicts a shield with part of the seal of the City of New York: a four-blade windmill (representing the Dutch settlers), two beavers, and two flour barrels (symbolizing the two most important exports of New Amsterdam: furs and flour).

Janes Walk 2023 Our Lovely Tour Guide: Kathy Bensen-Haskins As we make our way to the first stop on the tour, we will give you some background on Landmark East Harlem. It was founded in 2015 by a coalition of organizations and individuals whose mission is to protect the special character of the neighborhood. We do this by working to secure City landmark designation and State and National Register listing for individual properties and historic districts in East Harlem. We also advocate for contextual new development and adaptive reuse of older properties. We have succeeded in getting three individual buildings designated by the New York City Landmarks Preservation Commission and East Harlem’s first historic district listed on the State and National Registers. We hope the area we are about to tour will be the second historic district so listed later this year. In 2020 we commissioned a historic preservationist to conduct a reconnaissance historic resource survey for the area we are about to tour. Later this year, the New York State Board for Historic Preservation will meet and review nominations for both individual structures and districts, and we hope it will recommend the district for listing on the State Register of Historic Places. It will then be forwarded to the National Park Service for review and listing on the National Register.

Saint Andrew’s Church ARCHITECT: Henry M. Gordon DATE: 1872-73 STYLE: Gothic, Church The architectural composition of Saint Andrew’s Church is distinctive and picturesque in the Gothic manner. Constructed of rock-faced granite, the Church’s rugged appearance has a solid quality and great dignity. The interesting massing of structural elements culminates in a handsome clock tower, adjacent to the south transept on 127th Street. Two graceful pointed-arch openings on each side of the belfry give form and deep shadow to the tower, while the slate-covered spire is adorned at each corner by delicate turrets. Cruciform in shape, the plan has galleries in the transept and side aisles in the nave. Simple buttresses, at the exterior of the south aisle wall, lend structural support and considerable interest to the design.

Gristede Brothers, ca. 1921. Founded by two teenage brothers, Diedrich (Dick) and Charles Gristede, in 1888, Gristede's would become a city mainstay over the next half century. The original small grocery store, located at 42nd Street and 2nd Avenue, prospered and within 50 years the grocery store had become a successful chain with more than 150 stores in the city, Westchester, Long Island and Connecticut. This 128th Street location opened in a new purpose-built structure in 1920. Today the building still stands, sans the 'Gristede Brothers 1920' lettering that once graced the triangular pediment at the top.

New York Public Library, 125th Street Branch ARCHITECT: McKim, Mead & White DATE: 1904 STYLE: Renaissance Revival McKim, Mead & White’s philosophy was that the libraries were designed to serve two purposes: to be specific to their neighborhood yet universal in character, and to be expressive of a municipal building type. The striking Renaissance Revival-style building is of the palazzo type. The building is clad in rusticated Indiana limestone and is three stories high and three bays wide. Large arched windows dominate the first floor with an entrance offset to the right with an arched glass transom above. The tall second-floor window openings are topped by arched decorative transom panels. The third floor has three small square windows that pierce the façade, creating a clerestory.

"127th Street, north side, west from No. 29. In the background is St. Andrew's Protestant Episcopal Church, at No. 1-9 East 127th Street, July 28, 1932." This block of East 127th Street between Madison Avenue and Fifth Avenue has been give the honorific name of “Langston Hughes Place.” Hughes lived in an apartment on the top floor of the brownstone at no. 20 (approximately halfway down the block on the left) between 1947 and 1967. The 1869-built rowhouse was designated a New York City Landmark in 1981 due to its connection to Hughes.

Harlem was once a quiet suburban village. Until the mid-19th century, the area was largely undeveloped; most structures were isolated, free-standing frame houses. This collection surveys some of the frame houses that once stood in Upper Manhattan — including a few hardy examples that have survived to the present day.

Accident on Lexington Avenue at the intersection of 121st Street, July 21, 1915.

A direct means of making Harlem's first apartment buildings more attractive to potential tenants was the practice of including an ornate banking room on the ground floor. In fact, before 1920, bank buildings that did not include apartment suites were uncommon. The Mount Morris Bank/Morris Apartments was the result of a limited competition that included McKim, Mead & White. Designed by Lamb & Rich and completed in 1884, the structure housed apartments that were later transformed into offices. Splendidly devised, the cherry-red brick and terra-cotta structure exhibited a stylistic lineage derived from Romanesque, Queen Anne, and Dutch sources. It was one of Lamb's great achievements. One of about six small banks founded in late nineteenth-century Harlem, the Mount Morris Bank was by 1913 absorbed by a mightier citywide financial institution, the Corn Exchange Bank. The building itself was partially destroyed by arson in 1997.

Columbus Theatre, 1896. Oscar Hammerstein I opened the Columbus Theatre on 125th Street in 1890. It presented lighter theatrical fare than its sister theater down the street, the Harlem Opera House. The playhouse was sold to F.F. Proctor and renamed Keith & Proctor's 125th Street Theater, showing vaudeville acts. The Proctor/Keith partnership ended in 1911. Films had been added to the theater's program by the time, and it was renamed Proctor's 125th Street Theatre. The theater was taken over by RKO in the 1930s and closed in 1953.

Storefront law offices in East Harlem, May 18, 1938. These law offices, run by the two sons of founder David Flam, occupied 165 East 121st Street for 25 years. Located directly across the street from the Harlem Courthouse, the firm offered an array of court-related services. A variant image shows two lawyers, perhaps the brothers Flam, standing at the front door. Abbott rejected this version, however, in which the men detracted from the colorful names stenciled on the plate glass. Only weeks after Abbott’s photograph, the firm moved to larger quarters at 181 East 121st Street. Today no. 165 is an overgrown vacant lot, and the rest of the block is largely abandoned. The imposing courthouse, built in 1891 and long neglected, was granted landmark status in 1967 and is under renovation.

Take your mother for a stroll around East and Central Harlem above 125th Street, straddling Fifth Avenue, the traditional dividing line between East and Central Harlem. Members of Landmark East Harlem (LEH) will introduce you to the treasures of the second historic district that LEH has proposed for listing on the National and State Registers of Historic Places. Featured sites include 19th-century wood-frame houses, Victorian-era rowhouses, landmarks associated with James Baldwin and Langston Hughes, former church buildings that have been given new purpose, and the brownstone stoop that served as the site of the iconic 1958 photograph of jazz musicians by Art Kane for Esquire magazine.

St. Andrew's Episcopal Church ca. 1912 St. Andrew's, the first Protestant Episcopal congregation in Harlem, was organized in 1829 and opened its first church on Fourth (now Park) Avenue between 127th and 128th Streets the following year. Several additions enlarged the church before fire destroyed it in 1871. The next year, the congregation broke ground on the same site for a new church designed by Henry M. Congdon (1834-1922). The Gothic-style building was completed in 1873. St. Andrew's grew along with Nieuw Haarlem, a village established in 1658 by Peter Stuyvesant and bounded by the Harlem River, Morningside heights, 110th Street, and 155th Street. Because of the congregation's steady growth and the noise and smoke of the railroad along Park Avenue, a larger building on a different site was deemed necessary for St. Andrew's. In 1888, the building firm of Mahoney and Watson was hired to dismantle the church, brick by brick, and to reassemble and enlarge it on its present site, the east side of Fifth Avenue between 127th and 128th Streets. The larger building, shown here, accommodated congregants from the "aristocratic apartment houses and the popular brownstones'" of the neighborhood, populated primary by Germans and Irish and graced by such amenities as Oscar Hammerstein's Harlem Opera House on West 125th Street.

12 West 129th Street, ca. 1932. This building was erected in the late 19th century by William Paul and Thomas Wilson. The two men, carpenters and business partners, had purchased the lot late in 1862 to construct a two-and-a-half-story house that they initially addressed as "129th off Fifth." Since 1862, this house has seen numerous alterations. The Moorish-inspired porch was added in 1882-83 after John Simpson, the founder of the Estey Piano Company, and his family moved into the home. A full third story was added in 1896 when an order of Franciscan Sisters took over the property. The Sisters converted the home into a convent and reception home for poor children. According to the 1900 census, six sisters resided here; in 1903, one priest, four sisters, and eight servants were in residence; in 1920 there were nine sisters; and in 1925, there were five sisters and fifteen children between the ages of two and nine. In order to accommodate its new use, the Franciscan Sisters made many grand changes to the home—including enlarging the building itself. Now known as 12 West 129th Street, the home is a landmarked building and one of the last free-standing houses in Harlem.

Northwest corner of 125th Street and Lexington Avenue looking west, March 15, 1915.

New York Public Library, Harlem Branch. March 20, 1928. A Carnegie Library designed by the McKim, Mead & White firm, the Harlem Branch opened to the public in January 1909. It replaced an earlier Harlem Branch library which, according to the NYPL, had been in operation as early as 1826.

Election in East Harlem, October 28, 1912. Political banners promoting Republican candidates line the streets at Lexington Avenue and East 125th Street, a little over a week before Election Day. In the Presidential race, Woodrow Wilson, the Democratic candidate, defeated the incumbent Republican William Howard Taft; Theodore Roosevelt, running as a candidate of the Progressive Party, having failed to secure toe G.O.P. nomination; and Socialist candidate Eugene V. Debs. In the background, the elevated 125th Street station of the New York Central Railway is visible.

The cast-iron frame watchtower predates the surrounding park's completion. Built in 1856 by Julius Kroehl, it occupies the highest point in the area. A watchman in the tower constantly looked out for fires and sounded the alarm by ringing an enormous bell. Samuel F. B. Morse's telegraph would eventually put such towers out of business. This tower, which ceased operations in the 1870s, is the only surviving watchtower in the city.

Also known as the Mount Morris Turkish Baths, June's Landmark Spotlight for NYC Pride Month is located at 28 East 125th Street. Built in 1889-90 by C. Abbott French & Co., the structure was designed as a blend of two popular styles at the time, neo-Grec and Queen Anne.

St. Andrew's Protestant Episcopal Church, ca. 1908. In 1829, St. Andrew’s became the first Episcopal parish in the Village of Harlem. After its first church on East 127th Street was destroyed in an 1871 fire, architect Henry M. Congdon designed a new Victorian Gothic structure as its replacement. In 1889, the Congregation elected to move to a new site at 127th Street and Fifth Avenue in order to better reflect the geographic distribution of its pewholders (in the 19th century, it was commonplace for churchgoers to rent their pews). Rather than build a new church, Congdon was enlisted to develop a plan for a new building incorporating elements of the current structure. Today’s church is Congdon’s relocated St. Andrews, with additional features added and adaptations made to suit the new site, including a 125-foot slate-clad clocktower.

All Saints Roman Catholic Church Complex ARCHITECT: Architect: Renwick, Aspinwall & Russell DATE: Year Built: 1883-1893 STYLE: Italian Gothic Revival, Venetian Gothic Revival, Gothic Revival The Roman Catholic Church of All Saints, with its lively and animated design and exceptionally fine ornament, was created by one of New York’s leading nineteenth-century architects, James Renwick, Jr., of the firm of Renwick, Aspinwall and Russell. Among the many churches he designed during his long career, the Church of All Saints has been called his best. Constructed over the course of several years, the church (1883-93), parish house (1886-89) and school (1902-04) formed an important anchor for the rapidly expanding Harlem neighborhood when they were built, and continue that role today. Renwick, architect of the original Smithsonian building in Washington, designed many of New York City’s most beautiful and well-known churches, including Grace Church and St. Patrick’s Cathedral. The Church of All Saints is his most fully evolved Italian Gothic Revival style design, an unusual stylistic choice for a late nineteenth century church in New York. The building displayed the texture, shape and color variations that were so important during that period due to the influence of the writings of John Ruskin. The facades of All Saints combine the mixed tones of light and dark brick, terra cotta and stone, with an assortment of window shapes and sizes in a building which is both spirited and inspiring. The neighboring parish house displays elements of the Venetian Gothic Revival style, with its stone balconies pierced by pinwheeling designs, and its narrow windows topped by filled gothic arches. The school building, located north of the church along 130th Street and completed several years later by Renwick’s nephew, William W. Renwick, displays a simpler version of the Gothic Revival style, with plain brick wall surfaces juxtaposed with light-colored stone and areas of elaborate terra-cotta ornament.

My Archive Spring 2019 "My parents' wedding day in 1958." —Teri Graham

Kopper House, ca. 1920. Referred to as the "oldest house in Harlem" at the beginning of the 20th century, the Kopper House was built in 1790 by architect Johann Hermann Raub for his family. As can been seen pointedly in this photograph, the front of the house (the porch at right) was constructed in brick, while the rear was clapboard. The front of the house was rendered in the more expensive material and the eventual layout of the street (here 124th Street) provided the stark view of the two halves. Originally the house would have been surrounded by a large plot of land and an orchard of fruit trees brought to this country by its builder. The house, referred to as "Haunted House" in a 1924 NY Times article about it, survived into the early 1930s but it is unclear when it was finally demolished.