Public School 109 was designed by C. B. J. Snyder, superintendent of school buildings for the Board of Education from 1891 to 1923. Roughly 400 schools were constructed during his tenure, when the city’s population was growing and new laws mandated children’s education. Snyder was a great innovator, incorporating advances in fireproofing and air circulation, as well as laying out buildings in an H-plan, like P.S. 109, to increase light and air to classrooms and provide opportunities for recreation. With its many decorative details, the Collegiate Gothic style building is a great example of Snyder’s emphasis on the power of aesthetics in architecture. The school was decommissioned in 1995 and sat neglected for about 15 years until its restoration and conversion to artists’ housing. It reopened in 2015 as El Barrio’s Artspace/PS109, holding 89 units of affordable live/work space and 10,000 square feet for arts organizations. Artspace is a nonprofit that operates 35 arts facilities in 15 states. The Former Public School 109 is listed on the State and National Register of Historic Places.

My Archive Spring 2019 "This photo was taken by my buddy "Willie" who was attending Manhattan Community College and was in the school's student photography club. Willie had taken me to visit his old neighborhood since moving to my neighborhood on West 145th Street." —JP Nieves

Third Avenue, North from 95th Street, 1876. Telegraph lines along Third Avenue and buildings visible in the distance indicate the late-19th century transition from farmland to the Upper East Side’s familiar street grid. In this photo, Third Avenue is likely being prepared for the construction of the elevated railway tracks. The Third Avenue El’s Upper East Side stations opened in December 1878. Wooden advertising boards for Murtaugh’s Dumb-Waiters and Rising Sun Stove Polish are visible on the East side of Third Avenue, while graffiti on rocks lining the West side promotes “cigars” and “liver oil pills.”

Ogden Codman House ARCHITECT: Ogden Codman DATE: 1912-13 STYLE: French The Parisian character of the house is most emphatically to be found in the street elevation, with its strong, rusticated first floor and high double carriage door entrance, which serves also as a vestibule. It is again expressed in the second floor stone balcony supported on carved brackets, with beautifully detailed wrought iron railing extending across the width of the entire front. The second floor windows are very high with arched heads indicating the importance of the drawing room behind them. The third-floor windows are square in shape with heavy molded stone frames with swags beneath the sills. All windows of this three-story section are shuttered in a typically French manner. Completing the composition of the facade is a well-proportioned stone cornice at the fourth floor level behind which rises a slate Mansard roof with three unusual dormer windows, distinguished by their handsome semicircular stone frames and arched roofs.

Park Avenue and East 100th Street, to the east of the New York and Harlem Railroad's Harlem line tracks.

Saint Nicholas Russian Orthodox Cathedral ARCHITECT: John Bergesen DATE: 1901-02 STYLE: Church The St. Nicholas congregation, which was established in 1894, met in a rented house at 323 Second Avenue until a permanent building could be erected. The purchase of the 75-by-100-foot lot, on which the present church buildings stand, was undertaken by Dean Alexander Hotovitsky on behalf of the congregation in September 1899. The lot was smaller than what had initially been sought, and it was not a corner site, but the high cost of real estate in New York limited the selection. The New York City congregation was unable to fully finance the building, so the Synod of Russia was given Imperial permission to collect money throughout the Russian Empire.

The Harlem line railroad tracks, then operated by the New York Railways Corporation, as seen from the northeast corner of Park Avenue and East 100th Street. Today the buildings on the western side of Park Avenue have been replaced by the NYCHA George Washington Carver Houses.

East Harlem/El Barrio is home to a great number of murals that build on a long tradition in Latin American art, wherein residents may express themselves and tell their stories. Protecting these significant cultural symbols has become a great challenge, but an important endeavor, in a rapidly changing neighborhood. Modesto Flores Community Garden, Lexington Avenue between East 104th and 105th Streets Yasmin Hernandez 2011 Commissioned by Art for Change, an organization that encourages progressive social change through the arts, this mural, in the artist’s words, “pays tribute to the common histories and struggles of Mexicans and Puerto Ricans and is a call for continued and increased political solidarity between the two communities.” Hernandez was inspired by Frida Kahlo’s painting, Las dos Fridas, and substituted the Puerto Rican poet Julia de Burgos for the second Frida. She also took elements from photographs of the soldaderas (women soldiers) who fought in the Mexican Revolution. The words in the mural are from a poem by de Burgos, “El regalo de los Reyes”.

Congregation Orach Chaim at 1461 Lexington Avenue, 1927. Founded in 1879, the Orthodox congregation’s synagogue opened in its present location in 1907.

Hydrant at 1181 Fifth Avenue, on the northeast corner of East 99th Street

“1215 Park Avenue, adjoining the S.E. corner of 95th Street. This and its neighbors will be standing in 1935. About 1912.” Indeed, 1215 Park Avenue (once home to the writer Joan Didion) and its neighbors are still standing in 2016.

97th Street, between First and Second Avenue, 1929. The Metropolitan Hospital dates to 1875 when it was founded as the Homeopathic Hospital on Ward's Island. The medical facility moved to Blackwell's Island (now Roosevelt Island) in 1894, and in 1955 it moved again to a campus in Manhattan, here, between First to Second Avenues and from East 97th to East 99th Streets, where it remains today.

Public School 72, ca. 1920. Constructed as Public School 72, this neo-Grec structure is one of the oldest intact school buildings in Manhattan. Built to accommodate the growing immigrant population of East Harlem, it was the first full block school building in the city. Its architect, David I. Stagg, was Superintendent of Public School Buildings from 1872 to 1886. The original portion of the building was completed in 1882 and the annex (by C.B.J. Snyder) was added in 1913. The Board of Education closed the school in 1975, and for the next two decades it provided classroom and office space for various institutions. In 1994-95, the building was converted to a cultural center. The conversion was spearheaded by El Taller Boricua, an arts organization founded in 1969 to bring attention and relevancy to artists who were being ignored and systematically marginalized by the cultural gatekeepers of the times. Named in honor of the Puerto Rican teacher, journalist and, poet who died in East Harlem, the Julia de Burgos Latino Cultural Center is home to El Taller Boricua (the Puerto Rican Workshop), the Heritage School and Los Pleneros de la 21.

No. 1217 underwent extensive restoration and facade resurfacing in 2006 when it was converted back to a single-family dwelling. Except for the absence of carved panels, the upper two stories on Park Avenue are identical to those of No. 1213. Under the oriel, a corbeled brick facing was added. Round-arched windows on the parlor floor have hood moldings; a trio of whimsical creatures eye passersby. On either side are terra-cotta escutcheons, incised to suggest tiny bearded faces. The basement doors on Park Avenue are windows, restoring the original entrance to 95th Street. A wide three-step stoop is flanked with newel posts and iron railings. On either side of the door are gas-burning lanterns. Only the lowest portion on 95th Street is of brownstone; the top three stories are of red brick, with brownstone quoins defining the corners. Centered over the entrance, brick pilasters flank second and third-story windows, between which is a carved spandrel (including, perhaps, another face). The upper round-arched window has a hood molding. Narrow arched niches shelter foliate carvings.

96th Street Branch, NYPL, September 24, 1928. Constructed between 1904 and 1905 to the plans of architectural firm Babb, Cook & Willard, the 96th Street Library is a Italian Renaissance Revival building. Typical of other upper Manhattan Carnegie libraries, it is a mid block three-story, three-bay structure. The library closed for six months in 2012 for HVAC and additional infrastructure updates.

141-145 East 103rd Street between Lexington and Third Avenues.

The Lucy Drexel Dahlgren House is a historic home located at 15 East 96th Street. It was built in 1915-16, and was designed by Ogden Codman, Jr. in the French Renaissance Revival style. Codman, Jr, with the novelist Edith Wharton, authored The Decoration of Houses (1897), a well-respected manual on interior design that criticized Victorian interior design as heavy, poorly planned, and wasteful of space. The wealthy and socially prominent Lucy Drexel Dahlgren spent little time in her house at 15 East 96th Street. Apparently, Dahlgren rented the house to the French jeweler Pierre Cartier from 1922 until she sold it to him in 1927. In 1945, on his retirement, Cartier sold the house to the Roman Catholic Church of St. Francis de Sales (135 East 96th Street), which used it as a convent for the nuns who taught at the church's parochial school. In 1981 the church sold the house to a private owner, who restored it.

Engine 53, undated photo. This fire station was designed by the firm of Napoleon LeBrun & Sons, which served the as architects for the Fire Department from 1879 to 1895. During this time, the firm designed more than 40 buildings that defined the department’s architectural presence in the city. This Queen Anne/Romanesque Revival style structure, completed in 1884, is considered a fine example of their work. The fire station and its neighboring police station were both decommissioned in 1974. Today the former firehouse is occupied by the Manhattan Neighborhood Network, a local public access cable network.

East Harlem encompasses a large section of northeastern Manhattan bounded by 96th Street, 142nd Street, Fifth Avenue and the Harlem River. Also known as El Barrio, the area is famous as one of the largest predominantly Latino neighborhoods in the city. Echoing the city’s development patterns, the neighborhood was largely built in response to the availability of transportation. In the 1830s, tracks were laid along Park Avenue for horse-drawn streetcars and later, the tracks became the New York and Harlem Railroad line, with train stops in East Harlem. Several resorts were built to take advantage of the higher elevations with views toward the growing city to the south and residential estates were built near the waterfront. Development increased with the construction of the Second and Third Avenue elevated rail lines to 125th Street in 1879- 80, and with the arrival of the subway in 1919. Rowhouses, tenements and flats buildings housed the area’s largely working class population, while Third Avenue became its first commercial thoroughfare. Early residents included German, Irish, Russian, Scandinavian, Jewish and Italian immigrants, the latter making up a particularly significant group. At its peak in 1930, East Harlem was home to roughly 100,000 Italian-Americans, many more than the Lower East Side’s Little Italy. It was also the founding location of the Genovese crime family, one of five organized crime families formed in 1931 making up the Italian American Mafia in New York City. One of East Harlem’s most famous Italian-American residents was Vito Marcantonio, famed lawyer, member of the American Labor party and an early leader in the movements for civil rights and Puerto Rican independence. He was extremely popular with both the Italian and Puerto Rican communities, representing the neighborhood in the U.S. House of Representatives for six terms from 1939-51. Most of the tangible references to Italian East Harlem are gone, as the community began to leave after World War II, but a few are identified in the brochure and some storied Italian businesses continue to thrive, including Patsy’s Pizzeria and Rao’s restaurant. Soon after World War I, a large community of Puerto Ricans and South and Central Americans had settled in East Harlem, with a second influx after World War II, leading to the lasting monikers “Spanish Harlem” and later “El Barrio.” The first Puerto Rican elected to public office in the U.S., Oscar García Rivera, was a resident of East Harlem, and represented East and Central Harlem in the New York State Assembly from 1937-40. García Rivera was a strong advocate for child labor laws, workers’ rights and anti-discrimination legislation. The Hellgate Post Office on East 110th Street was renamed in his honor in 2002. In the mid-20th century, urban renewal resulted in the construction of subsidized housing projects by the New York City Housing Authority (NYCHA). With funds from the 1949 Federal Housing Act, Robert Moses led an initiative to clear sections of the neighborhood, resulting in the construction of 24 public housing developments, in which 30% of East Harlem’s population resides. The bankruptcy of New York City in the early 1970s and broader municipal disinvestment hit East Harlem particularly hard. Lots were cleared for investment that never came, leading to a fragmented landscape that exacerbated issues seen across the city: urban flight, race riots, drug abuse and poverty. However, East Harlem residents fought back with strong expressions of their identity and political will, with inspiring murals that continue to be a neighborhood hallmark today. In 2015, the city announced that East Harlem would be one of several neighborhoods in the five boroughs to be rezoned for increased density as part of Mayor Bill de Blasio’s Housing New York plan. Many expect the plan to mark a new era in the evolution of East Harlem, as new development has already destroyed historic buildings and shifted the neighborhood’s socioeconomic makeup and prevailing culture.

Squadron A Armory 1339 Madison Avenue In 1884, a group of gentlemen horseback riders formed the “First New York Hussars” or “First Dragoons,” and by 1889, its 53 members became Troop “A.” By 1895, the group became Squadron “A,” and served in the Spanish American War and in World War I as the 105th Machine Gun Battalion. The Squadron A Armory was built for the group in 1895 and initially included roughly 100 horse stalls. Its Madison Avenue frontage was landmarked in 1966 as part of a dramatic, mid-demolition emergency action by the LPC. Based on what the Landmarks Preservation Commission calls, “twelfth-century French prototypes” and “American Inventiveness,” the Squadron A Armory was designed as “an excellent example of a medieval castle,” by John Rochester Thomas (who also designed New York’s Surrogates Courthouse – now home to the Municipal Archives).

Sub Station Seven was one of seven buildings that provided power to the elevated trains operated by the Manhattan Railway Company on Second, Third, Sixth and Ninth Avenues. These substations received 11,000-volt alternating current from the power house at 74th Street and the East River and converted it to 625-volt direct current for the third-rail distribution system to the trains. The power station and substations began operating in late 1901, and all trains were running by electric power by the spring of 1903. No. 7 was the primary supply of power for the upper portion of the Lexington Avenue subway from 1918 into at least the late 1970s, when other substations were constructed underground. It is the only Manhattan substation that dates from the electrification of the pre-subway elevated system and also retains its original appearance.

1185 Park Avenue Designed by Schwartz & Gross, 1928-29 – NYC HD, NR-D Occupying the entire blockfront, this enormous Gothic Revival style apartment building is accessed through a grand triple-arched doorway leading into a landscaped interior courtyard and to the building’s six lobbies. The five bays on either end of the building resemble bookends, as their windows are surrounded by cream-colored, ornamental terra-cotta. Across the street, 1192 Park Avenue now stands where the home of prominent brewer George Ehret once stood. The brownstone mansion was built in 1878 (demolished 1928) when the area was largely unoccupied, but its location was convenient to Ehret’s Hell Gate Brewery on the East River. As one of the first “fine” residences on upper Park Avenue, the mansion inspired other prominent families to move here.

This 1913 photo of Lexington Avenue, between 105th and 106th Streets in Manhattan shows a construction method called cut and cover. Like the name suggests, this method involved cutting or digging a trench in the street, installing the necessary infrastructure, and then covering with the street on top. During construction business went on as usual around construction. With temporary wooden structures placed over the work below, trolleys and other traffic were able to pass over top of the construction. Many of our first subway tunnels were built using this method beginning in 1900, which made construction faster, cheaper, and easier than trying to dig deep under the ground. It allowed sand hogs (the nickname given to tunnel workers) to avoid the difficult and unstable bedrock underneath most of Manhattan called Manhattan schist.

“View from the roof of George Ehret's home at Park Avenue and 94th Street. Looking northwest, showing High Bridge and water tower in the distance.” At right, the Park Avenue Tunnel at 97th Street. The New York Central and Hudson River Railroad lowered the tracks into what was originally called the Yorkville Tunnel from 59th Street to 96th Street between 1872-1876, at the same time that the final destination of the trains —the original Grand Central Depot— was being built.

St. Nicholas Russian Orthodox Cathedral, ca. 1970. The congregation of St. Nicholas Russian Orthodox Church was founded in 1894. When fundraising for a church building was undertaken in 1900 the Synod of Russian was given permission to ask for donations within the Russian Empire. One of the earliest gifts from this effort was from Czar Nicholas II himself. The Baroque style design of the church, inspired by Moscow cathedrals, was created by John Bergesen, a New York architect of Russian descent. The church, topped with its eye-catching onion domed cupolas, was dedicated in November of 1902. The church was elevated to cathedral status in 1903 and in 1905 the Diocesan seat was moved from San Fransisco to here.

“George Ehret residence and garden, 1197 Park Avenue at S.E. corner of 94th Street. The house, which is at least fifty years old, has just been sold for demolition. 1928.” A German immigrant, Ehret established the Hell Gate Brewery in 1866, overlooking the Hell Gate strait of the East River from a large facility occupying an area bounded by 91-94th Streets and Second-Third Avenues. Built in 1878, Ehret’s Park Avenue mansion was sold in 1928, one year after his death. In 1929, a fifteen-story apartment building was built on its site.

Public School 109, June 7, 1940. Public School 109 was designed by C. B. J. Snyder, superintendent of school buildings for the Board of Education from 1891 to 1923. Roughly 400 schools were constructed during his tenure, when the city’s population was growing and new laws mandated children’s education. Snyder was a great innovator, incorporating advances in fireproofing and air circulation, as well as laying out buildings in an H-plan, like P.S. 109, to increase light and air to classrooms and provide opportunities for recreation. With its many decorative details, the Collegiate Gothic style building is a great example of Snyder’s emphasis on the power of aesthetics in architecture. The school was decommissioned in 1995 and sat neglected for about 15 years until its restoration and conversion to artists’ housing. It reopened in 2015 as El Barrio’s Artspace/PS109, holding 89 units of affordable live/work space and 10,000 square feet for arts organizations.

Mt. Sinai Hospital ca. 1904 On May 22, 1901, Isaac Wallach, President of the Mount Sinai Board of Directors, placed the cornerstone of the new hospital buildings at 100th Street between Fifth and Madison Avenues, a neighborhood that was experiencing a surge of development. The ten new buildings, which filled the entire block from Fifth to Madison Avenues, 100th to 101st Streets, were dedicated on March 15, 1904. Equipped with 456 beds (up from 200 at the Lexington Avenue site), the hospital needed to expand again by 1913, when the campus took over two-thirds of the 99th Street block along Fifth Avenue. This expansion included larger private patient facilities (allowing the old private pavilion to be used for a new model of care: semi-private rooms), a larger employee dormitory on 99th Street to house the non-medical staff, a new children’s pavilion, and a pediatric outpatient department building on the south side of 100th Street. This building program was completed in 1922. Other expansions followed. In 1952, Mount Sinai’s obstetrical service began with the establishment of the Klingenstein Maternity Pavilion. Ten years later the Klingenstein Clinical Center opened on Madison Avenue to house the Psychiatry Department as well as medical-surgical semi-private rooms that replaced large, communal, open wards. The towering Annenberg Building opened in 1974. The next significant construction came with the razing of the 1904 buildings to make way for the Guggenheim Pavilion, designed by internationally-renowned architect I.M. Pei and dedicated in 1992. Three years later, the creation of the new Primary Care Building on Madison Avenue, 101st to 102nd Streets, brought pediatrics, geriatrics, and internal medicine outpatient services together to better serve the community. Also in 1995, the East Building on Madison Avenue opened with state-of-the-art laboratories as well as patient care areas.

Park Avenue and 95th Street, Looking South, 1936. The fifteen-story apartment building, built in 1929, occupies the former site of the George Ehret mansion.

Second Avenue Railway Car Barn, April 25, 1941. This block-long, fortress-like structure was constructed in 1870s to house the horses that powered the lines of the Second Avenue Railroad. When the railway was electrified in the 1890s, the building was used as the car barn for the rolling stock. The electrified streetcar lines were replaced in the early 1930s with buses, and this building was abandoned until it was razed in 1941. In 1947 a new 1.5 acre park was opened on the land, named for some former famous residents of the neighborhood. The Marx Brothers, children of Jewish emigrants from Germany and France, grew up in Yorkville before making it big as vaudeville performers and movie stars. As of 2018, plans for a playground-replacing 670-foot tower has stirred controversy between developers and the local community and preservationists regarding the planned structure and its effect on the neighborhood.

Streetcars on Lexington Avenue, as seen from the northwest corner of 102nd Street, 1931. Nicknamed "crackup hill" or "Duffy's Hill" for the Tammany Hall Alderman Michael James Duffy, who built rowhouses in the area, this block was the site of frequent traffic accidents. Visible in the lower-left portion of the frame is the entrance to the 6 train at 103rd Street.

Green Line Car Barns, March 1, 1928. Constructed in the late 1880s or early 1890s as a streetcar barn, this building on Lexington Avenue was used by the Metropolitan Street Railway Company during the height of their operations. By 1907 the company controlled 47 streetcar lines and 300 miles of track. This car barn served the Lexington Avenue and Lennox Avenue lines. The building functioned in the later 20th century as a MaBSTOA facility (Manhattan and Bronx Surface Transportation Operating Authority). The building was razed and replaced with a new bus facility in 2003 (described by the AIA Guide to NYC as functional, up-to-date, and banal). In 2012, the 100th Street Bus Depot was renamed the Tuskegee Airmen Bus Depot in honor of the World War II African-American military pilots and support personnel.

This 1913 photo of Lexington Avenue, between 105th and 106th Streets in Manhattan shows a construction method called cut and cover. Like the name suggests, this method involved cutting or digging a trench in the street, installing the necessary infrastructure, and then covering with the street on top. During construction business went on as usual around construction. With temporary wooden structures placed over the work below, trolleys and other traffic were able to pass over top of the construction. Many of our first subway tunnels were built using this method beginning in 1900, which made construction faster, cheaper, and easier than trying to dig deep under the ground. It allowed sand hogs (the nickname given to tunnel workers) to avoid the difficult and unstable bedrock underneath most of Manhattan called Manhattan schist.

“View from the roof of George Ehret's home at Park Avenue and 94th Street. Looking west. Shows the Metropolitan Museum of Art (and Cleopatra's Needle) and the 86th Street Station \[on Park Avenue].” Designed by Calvert Vaux, the Met’s original red-brick Victorian Gothic building (center-right) was completed in 1880.

“View from the roof of George Ehret's home at Park Avenue and 94th Street. Looking east by south. Looking east on 94th Street showing 2nd and 3rd Avenue Els. Also Hell Rock. On the right is Ehret's brewery.”

Originally constructed as Public School 72, this neo-Grec structure is one of the oldest intact school buildings in Manhattan, built to accommodate the growing immigrant population of East Harlem. Its architect, David I. Stagg, was Superintendent of Public School Buildings from 1872 to 1886. For about 20 years after the Board of Education closed the school in 1975, it provided classroom and office space for various institutions. In 1994-95, the building was converted to a cultural center. The Julia de Burgos Latino Cultural Center is a designated New York City Individual Landmark.

Learn about the history of transportation in New York City, and the past through the lens of subway construction. (This can be viewed in its original context here)

“E. 94th Street, north side, east from Third Avenue, as viewed across a clearance at the S.E. corner of this point, September 13, 1938." The Third Avenue El was the last elevated line to operate in Manhattan (apart from sections of the 1 train in Upper Manhattan).

The site of the Lexington Avenue Explosion on July 4, 1914. Members of the Anarchist Black Cross along with a member of the Industrial Workers of the World had been plotting to assassinate John D. Rockefeller by blowing up his home in Tarrytown, NY. Their dynamite explosive detonated prematurely, killing four — including three conspirators — and destroying the upper floors of 1626 Lexington Avenue.