Sixth Avenue Elevated tracks above Murray Street, April 14, 1902. The elevated trestle carrying the Sixth Avenue El ran over Murray Street for one block, after its downtown route over Church Street, before turning uptown at West Broadway. In the background, the Ninth Avenue El trestle is visible over Greenwich Street.

The Barclay Vesey Telephone Building was one of the first skyscrapers built on downtown's gritty westside - a working waterfront dominated by piers, warehouses, and small-scale industry. The building housed offices and communications machinery for the New York Telephone Company. This dual function explains the building's unusual massiveness, as the machines housed on the interior did not require natural light. At ground level, the builders provided generous public arcades as well as a fantastically decorated lobby. Architect Ralph Walker's complex sculptural accents play off of the skyscraper's somber brick bulk. These accents on the building's exterior and in the lobby feature stylized shallow-relief trees, flora, and fauna. The Barclay Vesey Telephone Building was one of the first major skyscrapers of the "setback style," the ziggurat-like form suggested by the city's 1916 zoning law. It was also a masterpiece of Art Deco design by the architect. The famed French architect and theorist, Le Corbusier, used the Barclay Vesey Telephone Building as the frontispiece for the English language edition of his polemic, Towards a Modern Architecture. For him, it represented the functionality and power of American building in the late 1920's.

The Schepp Building at 165 Duane Street was completed in 1881 for the businessman Leopold Schepp who needed a large manufacturing building for his spice business. His main commodity was coconut, which was processed and packaged here (millions passed through the building each year 🥥). Schepp was an interesting character who according to the NY Times in the later 1880s had "a temper that would make the North Pole melt." In the 1920s, he began giving away his large fortune: gifts up to $5,000 to his employees and the establishment of a foundation to assist boys who pledged "to abstain from bad habits." By the time of his death in 1926, he had given away more than $7 million. The Leopold Schepp Foundation continues to award educational scholarships to this day. The building lost its mansard tower between 1915 and 1928, according to a 1991 Christopher Gray Streetscapes article. The building has been co-ops since 1980 and is part of the TriBeCa Historic District.

New York Telephone Building, 1936. Designed by Ralph Walker of the firm McKenzie, Voorhees & Gmelin in a Mayan-inspired Art Deco style, the massive New York Telephone Building was one of the most impressive buildings of the 1920s. The 32-story, buff brick clad structure, completed in 1927, has unusual massing with a short obliquely-angled tower, vertical piers ending on battlements at the top and sculptural ornaments on the many setbacks. It is considered one of the first skyscraper designed under the 1916 Zoning Law that required setbacks. The interior was designed as monumentally, with a neo-Romanesque Guastavino-vaulted arcade that runs the whole length of the Vesey Street side. The five sub-basement levels were built for and continue to house communications equipment, today a telephone switching center. The building's east and south facades were damaged following the collapse of WTC Building 7 in the attacks on September 11, 2001. In the years after the attacks, the original limestone carvings on the facade were reproduced.

Detail of Western Union Building, Hudson Street base, 1930. 60 Hudson Street was Western Union’s headquarters from 1930 to 1973, when the company moved operations to New Jersey. Designed by Ralph Walker of the Voorhees, Gmelin and Walker firm — who promoted the project as “the largest telegraph building in the world” — the massive building occupies the entire square block bounded by West Broadway, Thomas, Worth and Hudson Streets. Walker’s design incorporated German Expressionist elements, including a 19-shade color gradient brick, as well as Art Deco entranceway details closer to street level. Throughout its history, the skyscraper has been a key telecommunications hub: first for regional telegraphy; and, today, as a colocation (data centre) site for various Internet service providers.

Staple Street Skybridge, 2000.

Western Union Building, First Floor Interior ARCHITECT: Voorhees, Gmelin & Walker; Ralph Walker DATE: 1928-30 Style: Modernist The First Floor of the Western Union Building is a recognized achievement in Modernistic design. Its design was influenced by the work of German and Dutch Expressionist architects and drew upon Ralph Walker’s well-defined design theory emphasizing harmony and unity. In the design of the first floor interior, executed in the expressionistic style of the exterior of the building, Walker used materials and design motifs in an innovative manner to link the interior and exterior. The design of the interior is exceptional in its extensive use of brick with ingrained, modeled ornament of various colors and patterns.

New York Mercantile Exchange entrance, ca. 1975. Completed in 1884 (as the entrance way tells us), the New York Mercantile Exchange Building was designed by architect Thomas R. Jackson. The "exchanges" were the way that a number of trades (butter, cheese, egg, dried fruits, poultry and canned goods) organized in order to maintain quality and standards, eliminate shady practices and lay out rules. (The 1872 on the facade notes the establish date of the Butter and Cheese Exchange of New York, the first exchange that would later become this larger organization.) The red brick, Queen Anne style structure has an imposing off-set tower and a mansard roof. Today the building, which sits within the Tribeca West Historic District, includes condos, office spaces, ground floor retail.

Entrance to New York Telephone Building, ca. 1995.

Workers lay pipe for the high pressure water system along Chambers Street, between Church Street and West Broadway; undated photo.

Laing Stores, 1954. Famed cast-iron architectural pioneer James Bogardus designed this curved corner building at the northwest corner of Washington and Murray Streets in 1849. The four-story building was completed for the stores of Edward H. Laing. Construction on the building took just two months, an impressive accomplishment for the period. It was one of the earliest uses of prefabricated, mass-produced, modular iron parts for curtain-wall construction, and it was one of the oldest cast-iron building in the world. The building was scheduled for demolition in the late 1960s as part of the urban renewal of the Washington Market area. It remained standing until 1971. Owing to its iconic place in architectural history (the NY Times suggested that " in a sense, all skyscrapers are its grandchildren") the building was carefully dismantled. The pieces were labeled and stored in a nearby vacant lot. The hope was that the building would be reassembled next to its original site on the campus of Manhattan Community College. But in 1974 disaster struck, three men were discovered removing the building pieces from the lot. While a small section of panels was recovered, broken, in a Bronx junkyard, more than 60% of the pieces had already been sold for scrap. Later a building in the South Street Seaport was planned, and it was to use the remaining panels and new parts. While the remaining pieces were under lock and key following the earlier burglary, they too were stolen in 1977. An entirely new building, a reproduction of the Laing Stores, was completed at the corner of Fulton and Fronts Streets in 1983 and still stands.

176 Franklin Street, ca. 1980. The three-story Franklin Street structure was completed in 1907, replacing a Methodist chapel that had previously occupied the site. The family of Ida May Powell, the owner of the new building, had purchased the adjacent property at the corner of Hudson Street (at right) in 1903, to house their candy manufacturing business. Powell enlisted architect Henri Fouchaux, the architect who had just competed an eleventh-story extension next door, to design the Beaux-Arts building on Franklin Street. The facade was substantially altered in 1916, when another Powell, George, converted the storefront level to a restaurant. The leaded glass windowpanes date to this renovation. The Franklin Inn restaurant became a popular meeting place for the districts produce merchants, while a booster club for produce wholesalers was headquartered in the upper stories. No. 176 Franklin was raided multiple times during Prohibition, with the restaurant and a cabaret operation on the second floor censured by the authorities. In later years, the building was home to small manufacturing operations, which gave way to galleries, residences, and high end retail in more recent decades.

Western Union Building ARCHITECT: Voorhees, Gmelin & Walker; Ralph Walker DATE: 1928-30 STYLE: Modernist, Skyscraper The Western Union Building is a recognized achievement in Modernistic skyscraper design. The building is characteristic of a group of communications buildings designed by Ralph Walker in the late 1920s, primarily for the telephone companies, in which he developed a distinctive design approach related to the contemporary Art Deco style. The design of the Western Union Building was influenced by the work of the German and Dutch Expressionist architects, and drew upon Walker’s well-defined design theory which emphasized harmony and unity.

Hot dog vendor at West and North Moore Streets, April 8, 1936. The tall building in the background is the AT\&T Long Distance building at 32 Sixth Avenue.

Duane Park 1797; redesigned: Calvert Vaux, 1887; redesigned: Signe Nielsen, 1999 161-163 Duane Street, Babcock & Morgan, 1891-92 165-169 Duane Street, Stephen D. Hatch, 1881 173 Duane Street, Babb & Cook, 1880 168 Duane Street, Stephen D. Hatch, 1886 172 Duane Street, Jacob Weber, 1871-72 Named for James Duane, a Revolutionary War figure and mayor of New York City (1784-89), this is the city’s second oldest public park after Bowling Green. Its formal layout was redesigned by Calvert Vaux in 1887, paved over in the 1940s, and restored to evoke Vaux’s design in 1999. The buildings lining the park were originally warehouses for Washington Market, many housing dairy products. Tribeca’s iconic entrance canopies, of which there are many in this nook, were installed to protect goods from the sun. Numbers 161-163, 165-169 and 173 were designed in the Romanesque Revival style of brick, brownstone and terra-cotta. They feature intricate cornices, round arches and pilasters. The gabled corner tower on number 165-169 is particularly striking. On the south side, number 168 stands out for its Flemish-style silhouette (in 1891-92, its architect designed another Flemish-style building at 451-453 Washington Street) and number 172, whose cast-iron façade was preserved in front of a renovation in glass, evokes the Maison de Verre, an iconic 1931 Paris work by Pierre Chareau. Each site is located in the Tribeca West Historic District.

A walking tour through Lower Manhattan's skyscraper canyons and more than a century of high-rise construction. This walk focuses on the buildings on the west side.

Chambers Street: Ruby's Book Sale (No. 119, left) and the former Irving Savings Bank (No. 115, center), ca. 1976. Ruby’s Book Sale, which opened in 1960 and moved to Tribeca in 1970, closed in March of 2005 after 45 years of business.

Workers at a trench on Greenwich Street, beneath the Ninth Avenue El.

Ferry, Erie Railroad, April 9, 1936. A ferry crossing from the foot of Chambers Street was established in the 1850s, carrying passengers from lower Manhattan to Jersey City. Run by the Erie Railroad Company, the Chambers Street Ferry Terminal conveyed travelers to Erie Railroad lines leaving from the Pavonia Terminal on the New Jersey side. The building at the foot of Chambers Street was constructed prior to 1890. Following the decline of passenger rail service in the United States, the ferry service from this terminal saw its last trip on December 12, 1958. The terminal was demolished in 1964.

Prior to the boom of free public bath houses in the early 20th century, a series of floating baths were already sprinkled throughout the waterfronts of New York City. These baths were seasonal and eventually phased out after the rivers had become too polluted. / Floating Bath for installation citywide, architect Johnathan B. Franklin. These designs were granted final approval by the Art Commission on April 24, 1907.

Powell Building, 105 Hudson Street, ca. 1975. The Powell Building, a ten-story Carrère & Hastings design completed in 1892, was originally home to the Baker Chocolate Company and other food producers. The building was purchased by candy manufacturer Alexander Powell in 1903. Powell elected to add a further eleventh story, though the facade bears little trace of its alteration.

140 West Street ca. 1926 The east side of West Street was lined with cheap hotels, bars, luncheonettes, auto repair shops, and gas stations. Rising over these low buildings and filling an entire city block was an Art Deco behemoth, the headquarters of the New York Telephone Company (1926). Designed with a huge base, setbacks, and a tower, the building offered an ingenious solution to the height and mass restrictions of New York’s 1916 zoning law. Today it is a designated landmark.

Workers dig trenches along Duane Street, near West Broadway and the Sixth Avenue Elevated trestle; undated photo.

23, 25, 27, 29, 31, 33, 37, 39 and 41 Harrison Street 1796-1828 The formation of this L-shaped enclave of nine Federal houses is the result of a preservation effort in the late 1960’s, when plans for the Washington Market Urban Renewal Area left many buildings in danger. The newly-established Landmarks Preservation Commission negotiated funding to move three Federal buildings on a now-extinct part of Washington Street to join six similar structures on Harrison Street. All nine were designated as individual landmarks in 1969. The only two with a known architect are 25 and 27, designed by John McComb, Jr., one of the architects of City Hall, who is thought to have occupied one of them. The stairway and bridge at the end of Harrison Street, part of the Borough of Manhattan Community College, provides a good vantage point from which to view them. Each site is a New York City Individual Landmark.

196 Reade Street (at left), April 8, 1936.

Sixth Avenue El tracks above West Broadway, April 14, 1902. The photographer is facing uptown, just north of the Chambers Street elevated station. The building at left, No. 16 Hudson Street, is a six-story neo-Grec warehouse dating to the 1870s and operated by the Thurber, Wyland & Co. grocery wholesalers. Bogardus Triangle, a small park bounded by West Broadway, Reade and Hudson Streets, is out of frame at left.

West Street at the corner of Warren Street, 1936. Most of the commercial buildings on this stretch of West Street date to the 1880s, when the Hudson waterfront was City's primary port. Known as "The Farm" these buildings contained wholesale distributors of fresh produce. The photograph shows, suspended from the building facades, the corrugated metal awnings that shielded the fresh fruit and vegetables from the sun. At the near corner is No. 176 West Street, the Lucky Star Cafeteria. The New York Telephone Building is in the background to the right and the Woolworth Building appears on the left. These blocks were demolished as part of the Washington Market Urban Renewal Project in 1962. Today, the site is occupied by 101 Warren Street, a massive luxury development by Skidmore Owings & Merrill completed in 2008.

New York Mercantile Exchange Building 2-6 Harrison Street Thomas R. Jackson, 1884 In the mid 19th century, buyers and sellers of various commodities recognized the need to organize in order to maintain quality and standards, eliminate questionable practices and set down business rules. Among the city’s many industry-specific "exchanges" established prior to the creation of a central stock exchange was the Butter and Cheese Exchange of New York, formed in 1872. After admitting the egg, dried fruits, poultry and canned goods trades, the exchange changed its name to the all-inclusive New York Mercantile Exchange in 1882.To accommodate this expansion, land was purchased from Trinity Church for a new building at the corner of Harrison and Hudson Streets. Architect Thomas R. Jackson, who had been head draftsman under Richard Upjohn (architect of Trinity Church), created a five-story, red brick, Queen Anne style building with an imposing off-set tower. Ornament includes rusticated granite pillars, brick pilasters with terra-cotta Corinthian capitols, paired stone columns on the fifth floor and picturesque dormers in the tower’s mansard roof. The Former New York Mercantile Exchange is located in the Tribeca West Historic District.

Western Union Building Interior By the late 1920s, the grandeur of Beaux-Arts architecture had begun to seem old-fashioned. Meanwhile, new concrete vaulting methods started to rival the Guastavino system for spanning large spaces. Commissions like the Western Union Building reflect the company’s adaptation to these changing times. The Guastavino tiles in this magnificent Art Deco interior are primarily an ornamental finish, hanging from a superstructure of steel and concrete.

The brick building at 161 Duane Street was originally constructed in 1843 as a private house. From 1860 until 1920 the structure housed a whalebone cutting business (as can be inferred by the painted sign on the facade). The workers here created hoops for horse whips, women's skirts, corset stays, collar stiffeners, and umbrella ribs out of whalebone, but by the early 20th century, fashion, material technology, and a significant decline in American whaling rendered this business largely obsolete. In the 1890s the whalebone work moved to the top floors, while the Ye Olde Tavern (seen here in 1902) moved into the ground floor. When the firm's final owner, a man named George Massmann, retired in 1920, he had worked in this building since 1866 (under both of the previous owners). Later in the 20th century, the building was home to a shoe company and likely dozens of other unknown businesses. During that time the facade and its Whalebone sign were painted white, and the older faded sign attached above the second floor was removed. In 2002 architect and developer Joseph Pell Lombardi purchased this building and its neighbor at the corner (at left). Known as the Mohawk Building—it was once the home to the Mohawk Electric Company— the 1891 corner structure was built for a confectioner. Pell combined the two interiors for residential condos while restoring both facades and repainting the building's eponymous signage.

My Archive Spring 2019 "This photo shows the southernmost bay at the Hudson Street facade on the occasion of Morse & Rogers employees moving office furniture and inventory into their newly constructed building from previous locations on Duane Street, around March 1, 1911. This photo is from a family album that I own and features my great-grandfather William Paul Fitzpatrick (1883-1968) of Richmond Hill, NY, third from left in the center with his hands on his hips. I have a large company photo of Morse & Rogers at an outing near the docks, and photos of his retirement locking up the office one last time. Morse & Rogers was a shoe seller/distributor and later manufacturer founded by Daniel P. Morse on August 1, 1884, and originally located at the first-floor loft of 132 Duane Street. On March 1, 1911, the company moved into a brand new twelve-story building developed by Central Building Improvement & Investment Company, built in 1910-1911 and designed by Rouse & Goldstone." —James Russiello

Workers laying pipes for the high pressure water system into a trench along Hudson Street, at Reade Street; undated photo. The covered sidewalk at center-left stands outside No. 13-15 Hudson Street. The market stand was operated by William Orlando Saxton, "one of the city's leading butter and egg merchants." Saxton, a Long Island native, founded W.O. Saxton & Co. in 1884; the company operated from a series of storefronts in present-day Tribeca, including, from 1901-12, the stand pictured above at the northwest corner of Hudson and Reade.

The area now known as Tribeca was originally developed in the early 19th century as a residential neighborhood close to the city’s center in Lower Manhattan. Its street grid was laid out at right angles off of Greenwich Street and on a diagonal off of Broadway, creating blocks of different lengths and irregular open spaces. The residential character of these blocks allowed for the retention of small lot sizes in future waves of development, thus creating a neighborhood with richly textured streetscapes of varying styles of architecture. After the Civil War, shipping hubs moved from the East River to the North River (later renamed the Hudson River), and South Street Seaport was traded in for steam-powered shipping on the west side via long piers. With a newly thriving industrial waterfront, the neighborhood was poised for change. Around 1812, Washington Market was established on the streets from Fulton to Vesey and Washington to West (near the current site of the World Trade Center). The market grew considerably between 1812 and the middle of the century, becoming the city’s major source for consumables. Hundreds of vendors sold all manner of imported and locally made goods and produce to store owners, restaurateurs and home cooks alike. The growth of the market was, no doubt, fueled by the shipping industry on the river nearby, facilitating the transfer of goods. The market moved to Hunts Point in The Bronx in 1967 and the World Trade Center was developed shortly thereafter. Washington Market Park, located at Greenwich Street between Duane and Chambers Streets and designed by Lee Weintraub in 1978, was named after the historic market. With the combination of a bustling industrial waterfront and thriving commerce, the Federal and Greek Revival residential buildings north of the market were transformed into food storage warehouses and over the course of the rest of the 19th and into the 20th century, the majority of these would be replaced entirely with store and loft buildings and warehouses. This architectural development, which spanned roughly 50 years from 1860 to 1910, encompasses a balance of utilitarian and decorative forms in a range of popular styles of the period, all while defining the identities of the enterprises housed within and the expression of American commercialism as a whole. These buildings still dominate the character of the neighborhood today. Originally referred to as the “Lower West Side,” there are differing accounts as to where the name “Tribeca” came from. It originated in the 1970s, after a Special Lower Manhattan Mixed Use District was adopted for the area south of Canal Street, between Broadway and West Street. A realtor, advertising real estate within the new district, referred to it as Tribeca, which stood for the Triangle Below Canal. Most likely, the realtor hoped to inspire a similar transformation to that of Soho, whose industrial buildings had been converted into artists’ lofts and trendy apartment buildings. Four historic districts were designated in 1991–92: Tribeca East, Tribeca West, Tribeca North and Tribeca South, which was extended in 2002. These are located in Tribeca’s center, while pockets around the historic districts and most of the neighborhood’s periphery remain unprotected. Community members are currently advocating for more individual landmarks and expansion of the historic district borders.

\#386 Washington Street shows Lewis DeGroff and Son Wholesale Grocer. There are horse-drawn wagons at the loading dock, loading barrels onto their carts. There are several other business next to DeGroff and Son. 1906.

Hudson River Railroad Passenger Station, 1860. The station, opened in 1851, was the southern terminus of the Hudson River Railroad passenger line. In 1864, Cornelius Vanderbilt gained control of the railroad. When the new freight depot at St. John’s Terminal was completed in 1868, Vanderbilt closed the Chambers Street Station.

Prior to the boom of free public bath houses in the early 20th century, a series of floating baths were already sprinkled throughout the waterfronts of New York City. These baths were seasonal and eventually phased out after the rivers had become too polluted. / Floating Bath for installation citywide, architect Johnathan B. Franklin. These designs were granted final approval by the Art Commission on April 24, 1907.

Puffy's Tavern at 81 Hudson Street is a famed watering hole founded in 1977 by Frank E. Marco, Ned Schnier, and Jim Stratton at 81 Hudson Street. The pub served as a meeting place for local artists and intellectuals in the 1970s, 1980s, and 1990s. The tavern is still open, serving the ever-changing residents of TriBeCa.

Cosmopolitan Hotel, 1935. The first part of this structure was built in 1844-5 by James Boorman, a merchant and later President of the Hudson River Railroad. Boorman likely anticipated the construction of the railroad’s southern depot at Hudson and Chambers Streets, and continued to buy and develop property for a hotel serving railroad passengers and those conducting freight business. In 1853, the Girard House hotel opened, while Boorman broke ground on the first of two additions. Renamed the Cosmopolitan during the 1860s, the hotel continued serving business clientele through the turn of the 20th century, despite the shift of railroad business further uptown following the construction of the St. John’s Terminal. By the 1960s, the hotel had been converted to S.R.O. dwellings and renamed “the Bond.” Today, the Cosmopolitan name has been restored and, despite its many alterations, the building is included in the Tribeca South Historic District.

Workers dig a trench for the installation of the high-pressure water system at the northeast corner of Hudson and Thomas Streets; undated photo. The sidewalk shelter at right covers the loading area for the R.C. Williams & Co. building at 56 Hudson Street. Established in 1811, the wholesale grocers had been headquartered in this building since the late 1880s. Contemporaneous trade publications show the firm to have been an active player in the city's produce distribution sector (albeit with predictably dry headlines, e.g.: "Green Olive Importers Engage in Advertising"). In 1926, R.C. Williams purchased a full-blockfront site on Tenth Avenue, between West 25th-26th Streets, in anticipation of the construction of the High Line freight railway. The ten-story R.C. Williams warehouse, designed by Cass Gilbert and completed in 1928, occupies the full site between Tenth Avenue and the elevated trestle to its west. In fact, when the High Line opened to rail traffic on August 1, 1933, the first carload was delivered to R.C. Williams. After R.C. Williams departed, the Hudson Street warehouse was demolished to make way for Ralph Walker's Western Union Building at 60 Hudson Street.