St. Francis Court, ca. 1910. Early advertising for St. Franics Court notes that its location on "the choicest corner' of Riverside Drive afford it 20-mile views of the Hudson River and the hills of New Jersey. The apartments offered in this Neville & Bagge-designed building were five, six, or seven rooms with wood floors and a long distance telephone in each apartment! They rented for between $700 and $1500 a year.

Known locally as the “castle,” A late Gothic Revival building with a façade of roughhewn stone and terra-cotta trim was built for Saint Walburga’s Academy of the Holy Child of Jesus. Founded in 1904 to educate and house orphans, the convent and school were originally located in the two ornate mid-19th century mansions shown here. In their place rose an imposing, five-story, nine-bay structure with a crenellated tower puncturing its gable roof. Similar in appearance to the nearby City College campus, both institutions were constructed of schist excavated during the construction of the IRT subway. In 1957, the academy relocated to Rye, New York, and rechristened itself as the School of the Holy Child. After numerous failed attempts to repurpose the abandoned school, the Fortune Society purchased the building in 1998 and utilized historic tax credits to restore the exterior. It was converted into emergency and longterm housing for the formerly incarcerated

(Carlson & Wiseman, 1921) This three-story commercial structure, spanning the full block-front on Broadway, was originally the Gotham Theatre. Although most of the building’s exterior finishes have been removed, the inscribed words “Gotham Theatre,” flanked by Corinthian pilasters, exhibit the building’s original use. It was commissioned by Harris Theatrical Enterprises, which operated numerous theaters throughout the city, including the nearby Dorset/ Bunny Theatre at 3589 Broadway. The company hired the firm of Carlson & Wiseman, which designed a number of other theaters, including Brooklyn’s Alpine Cinema and Alhambra Theatre. Renamed the Delmar Theatre in 1937, the building remained in use as a theater until 1961. Located next to Montefiore Park, the theater was constructed on the site of the Montefiore House, founded by Jewish philanthropists to serve those suffering from chronic illnesses and the predecessor to the Bronx’s Montefiore Medical Center.

St. Walburga Convent and School, 1931. St. Walburga Convent and School (named after an 8th-century British female saint) provided housing and education for orphans administered by nuns. It was both a boarding and a day school for girls. It was originally housed in a pair of large 19th-century homes. This Gothic Revival building was constructed between 1911 and 1913 and remained St. Walburga until the late 1950s when the school moved upstate. In 1998 the building was purchased by an organization that assists formerly incarcerated people in reintegrating to society called the Fortune Society. With this new occupant, the building was restored and now can house up to 62 individuals.

Although European settlers had begun farming the area now known as West Harlem in 1625, the community was not formally incorporated as the village of New Harlem (or “Nieuw Haarlem” in Dutch) until 1658. The development of New York City and the introduction of rail and transport allowed Harlem to become a thriving neighborhood over the 19th and 20th centuries. Today, local organizations continue to fight to preserve West Harlem and promote its unique identity as increased development threatens this dynamic community and its architectural beauty.

Hamilton Place and West 138th Street. February 1, 1949. The building at center-right is No. 30 Hamilton Place. At left is Montefiore Square Park, named for Sir Moses Haim Montefiore, a prominent 19th century British-Italian Jewish philanthropist. In 1884, members of New York’s Jewish philanthropic community established the Montefiore Chronic Individuals on the Upper East Side. The Home moved to 138th Street in 1889; the park was acquired and named for Montefiore in 1906. Today, the institution is known as the Montefiore Medical Center, and has been located in the Bronx neighborhood of Norwood since 1913.

Block 2075, made up of 17 apartment buildings, is representative of the “Apartment Court” building typology found throughout West Harlem. Derived from Ernest Flagg’s “New Law Tenement” design, these apartment buildings were designed to meet the 1901 Tenement House Act requirement that every room contain at least one window. Building codes only permitted self-service elevators in low rise buildings, so apartment courts typically ranged from five to seven stories. These buildings proliferated in the city’s expanding middle class districts, with 63 apartment courts built on Broadway and Riverside, from West 135th to West 165th Streets, between 1905 and 1908. The prolific firm of Neville & Bagge designed at least three of the buildings on Block 2075: Washington Court at 3502-3512 Broadway; Lucerne Court at 505 West 143rd Street; and Hamilton Court at 501 West 143rd Street and 144 Hamilton Place. All of these feature brick and limestone façades designed in the neo-Renaissance and Italianate styles and included self-service elevators and servants’ quarters. Before these buildings’ construction, this block was the home of the Colored Orphan Asylum, constructed in 1867. Founded in 1836 by Quakers, it was originally located at 5th Avenue and 42nd Street until it was burnt to the ground during the Draft Riots of 1863. Although the 233 children at the orphanage escaped unharmed, the building’s destruction prompted the institution to move to the then isolated environs of rural West Harlem. The three-story brick building with a central tower was laid out in a cross plan and positioned mid-block. As professional opinion shifted against large institutions, the asylum constructed a new campus of smaller “cottages” in Riverdale in 1907, selling off its West Harlem site just as the construction of the IRT subway spurred a building boom in the neighborhood.

35 Hamilton Place, north east corner of West 138th Street, ca. 1922.

This group of 15 Italianate rowhouses was constructed around 1899 by an unknown developer. Each three stories with an English basement, they were built as speculative housing for working class families, including some European immigrants. The houses can be divided into four sub-groups based on their distinctive ornamentation, such as the rock-faced brownstone basements at 611-619. Over time, the houses were subdivided and eventually hosted a number of artists after the 1921 opening of the Gotham Theatre (site 19). The unified appearance of this block has been compromised over the years, as stoops have been removed and window openings altered.