Jumel Building, 1925. In 1899, Frank Winfield Woolworth commissioned architect C.P.H Gilbert to design him a mansion at Fifth Avenue and 80th Street. Seven years later Woolworth hired him again, this time to build a two-story commercial building in Washington Heights for his retail store. Attractive but unremarkable for such as illustrious architect, the building is pictured here in 1925 during survey work for the IND Eighth Avenue Line. It still stands today, though most of the facade is obscured by oversized signage.

Apartment Houses of the Metropolis, a 1908 survey of New York’s residential buildings, describes “The Grand View” at St. Nicholas Avenue and 155th Street: “There are three apartments on a floor of eight rooms and two baths each. The parlors and libraries are finished in white enamel, dining rooms in oak, paneled and beamed ceilings. The latter two rooms have parquet floors, while all other rooms have hardwood polished flooring.” Other amenities include long-distance telephone, electric lighting and plumbing and other material of “the highest character.”

The west side of Eighth Avenue, as it was known until 1977, underneath the Ninth Avenue El (which ran above Eighth Avenue from 110-155th Streets), 1932. The El was discontinued in 1940, having been made redundant by new subway services in the Bronx and along the IND Eighth Avenue Line.

Congregation Ahavath Israel, October 12, 1934. Built in 1922, the synagogue operated on 157th Street until the late 1980s.

In the 1920s, New York teams signed players who would appeal to a growing Jewish fan base, including second baseman Andy Cohen, signed by the Giants in 1926, and catcher Moe Berg, who played for the Brooklyn Robins (later Dodgers). Cohen achieved legendary status and had a Polo Grounds treat named for him: ice cream Cohens. Berg, known as “the brainiest guy in baseball,” later served as a spy for the Office of Strategic Services during World War II

Manhattanites out on horseback, ca. 1910. At left is the North Presbyterian Church, designed by the firm Bannister and Schell and built between 1903-05. At far right, a man drives a Pierce-Arrow automobile.

The Audubon Terrace complex, as viewed from the Audubon Park Apartments at 3750 Broadway, 1919. At right is the American Geographical Society, completed in 1911 (now Boricua College). At left is the Museum of the American Indian, which would be completed in 1922.

Polo Grounds ca. 1896 Known as the "Gothams" until 1885, the team that became the New York Giants, played their first game on May 1, 1883, at the Polo Grounds at 110th Between Fifth and Sixth Avenues in Manhattan. They would close out the 1880s with pennant wins in 1888 and 1889. In the early 1890s, the team moved further uptown to the new Polo Grounds at 157th Street on the Harlem River, depicted here. The Polo Grounds was also home to the New York Cuban Giants, which became the first salaried professional black baseball team in 1885.

The Audubon Park Apartments, across from the Audubon Terrace complex, then under construction, 1908. Its listing in Apartment Houses of the Metropolis advertises “an unobstructed view of the Hudson River and surrounding country” and “suites of five, six and seven rooms and extra servants’ rooms” for rents between $720 and $1,200 a year.

View of the Church of the Intercession from West 155th Street, near the burial site of John James Audubon. Audubon was originally interred close to the southwestern corner of the Trinity Cemetery. In 1892, his remains were exhumed and reburied, due to construction related to the extension of Riverside Drive. Audubon’s second resting place is marked by a Celtic Cross, made from Saugerties bluestone, near 155th Street, behind the Church of the Intercession.

South side of West 161st Street, ca. 1905.

Chapel, Church of the Intercession, ca. 1910. The second home of this Episcopal congregation, the chapel at 158th Street and Grand Boulevard (now Broadway) was built in 1872. By 1906, the parish was suffering from both overcrowding and financial difficulties. To solve both issues, parish officials struck a deal with the Trinity Church, whereby the new Church of the Intercession was built on the grounds of the Trinity Cemetery, at Broadway and 155th Street.

822-888 St. Nicholas Avenue, east side, between West 153rd and 155th Streets, 1935. These four stately homes are inexplicably behind a large fence in this 1935 photograph. Upon closer inspection, the broken and open windows and the advertising on the homes themselves, indicate they are empty and deteriorating. The buildings date to at least 1899, when a real estate brochure listed them as in foreclosure. They are listed as the address of a number of residents in the first decade of the 20th century, including an officer in the Daughters of the American Revolution. It is unclear when the buildings were abandoned or demolished.

The first Washington Heights Library opened in 1868. The library moved twice before a generous gift from J. Hood Wright, a New York philanthropist, made its collection available free of charge to all residents of Washington Heights. In 1914, the library moved to its present building, designed by Carrère & Hastings, the architects of the New York Public Library’s Main Fifth Avenue Branch.

160th Street, east from Broadway, ca. 1905. Pope & Co. druggists at 3834 Broadway advertises stationary, drugs, and prescriptions at “downtown prices.”

"St. Nicholas Avenue, east side, from 162nd Streets, seen from Amsterdam Avenue at 162nd Street." The streetcar tracks in the foreground are on Amsterdam Avenue. Between 161st and 160th Streets (at the center of the photograph) is the western end of Sylvan Terrace (formerly Sylvan Place), with its two-story wooden houses, a real estate development of the early 1860's when this part of town was practically suburban. St. Nicholas Avenue in its present form had been laid out up to this point since around 1870. North from here it was still Kingsbridge Road.

1909 Amsterdam Avenue, 1941. The debris seen here was the result of a fire on April 23,1941. The fire began in an abandoned lumberyard on the corner and given the large amounts of wood, spread quickly. A nearby wood-frame building, also empty was also destroyed. The four-alarm fire injured a number of firefighters. At some point in next two decades the buildings to the north (seen at left) which survived the fire, were knocked down for the development of the NYCHA Audubon Houses. Constructed between 1959 and 1962, the complex is referred to as a "vest pocket" public housing because it takes up less than one full city block. Designed by Greenberg and Ames, who built large apartment houses all over the city, the building is 20-stories tall and has 168 apartments.

Built in 1765 by British military officer Roger Morris, the Morris-Jumel Mansion is the oldest house in Manhattan. During the Revolutionary War, the house was used as a headquarters by officers from both sides. The mansion was confiscated from Morris, a Loyalist, at the end of the Revolution and later converted to a tavern, the Calumet House. In 1810, the French merchant Stephen Jumel purchased the home, adding a Federal style entrance. Following Jumel’s death, his wife Eliza remarried to Vice President Aaron Burr, in a ceremony held in the front parlor. The City of New York purchased the house in 1903, converting it to a house museum.

Attached clapboard and brick buildings on West 155th Street, sharing a covered wooden porch. At left is the William McKinley Temple, a Masonic lodge built in 1925. The houses have long since been demolished. Today, the lodge is the Prince Hall Masonic Temple, named after the 18th century founder of African American Freemasonry.

Although European settlers had begun farming the area now known as West Harlem in 1625, the community was not formally incorporated as the village of New Harlem (or “Nieuw Haarlem” in Dutch) until 1658. The development of New York City and the introduction of rail and transport allowed Harlem to become a thriving neighborhood over the 19th and 20th centuries. Today, local organizations continue to fight to preserve West Harlem and promote its unique identity as increased development threatens this dynamic community and its architectural beauty.

Audubon monument in Trinity Church Cemetery, near West 155th Street. Inscriptions read: O ALL YE FOWLS OF THE AIR, BLESS YE THE LORD, PRAISE HIM, AND MAGNIFY HIM FOR EVER. / O ALL YE BEASTS AND CATTLE, BLESS YE THE LORD, PRAISE HIM, AND MAGNIFY HIM FOR EVER.

The beginnings of the community now known as Audubon Park date back to 1841, when John James Audubon purchased fourteen acres and built a large mansion along the Hudson River shortly after publishing his famous work, Birds of America. Audubon named his farm, a pastoral landscape of woods, wildlife and rocky outcroppings, “Minnie’s Land” in honor of his wife. After bringing back plant and animal specimens from his 1843 expedition to the American West, Audubon lived on this secluded estate until his death in 1851. Facing financial hardship, Audubon’s family sold the land in small portions through the 1850s and 1860s. As early as 1854, the name Audubon Park was used for an enclave of ten large homes located on the former estate. Into the 1890s, Audubon Park retained a distinct identity from that of the rest of Washington Heights, remaining relatively secluded even as improvements in the street system and the introduction of cable cars and the Ninth Avenue elevated railroad brought residential development to its borders. In 1892, the city extended its fire limits up to West 165th Street, prohibiting new wood frame construction. The first masonry structures to appear within Audubon Park were a row of 12 three-story rowhouses constructed in 1896-98 on West 158th Street. When the Interborough Rapid Transit subway line along Broadway arrived at West 157th Street in 1904, Audubon Park was ripe for explosive growth. In 1905, the first apartment buildings in the area were built just outside Audubon Park’s boundaries at 609 West 158th Street and 3750 Broadway. However, most development occurred after the Grinnell family, which had controlled most of the former Audubon estate since the 1880s, sold its holdings to a syndicate of developers in 1908. Within a year, nine apartment buildings replaced most of the area’s winding roads and wood frame villas. From 1905 to 1932, 19 apartment houses were constructed in what is now the Audubon Park Historic District. Elegantly designed in a variety of styles and equipped with modern amenities, these buildings were marketed for upper middle-class tenants. Anchoring this neighborhood was Audubon Terrace, a unique complex of educational and cultural institutions whose construction began in 1904 and included the Church of Our Lady of Esperanza and the Hispanic Society of America. The influence of Audubon Terrace on the surrounding neighborhood is reflected in the names of some of its apartment buildings, including the Cortez, Goya, Hispania and Velazquez. Audubon Park has served as the site of significant preservation battles throughout its history. Efforts to create a park out of the remaining undeveloped portions of the Audubon estate and to save the John James Audubon house as a museum were scuttled by the construction of a viaduct carrying Riverside Drive from 151st Street to 161st Street in 1928. With the imminent development of new apartment buildings, a local community group successfully moved the house, but it was eventually demolished despite these efforts. Fortunately, success stories can be found in the designation of the Audubon Terrace and Audubon Park Historic Districts in 1979 and 2009, respectively. Today, a group of residents working with the Riverside Oval Association is advocating for the protection of the aforementioned 12 rowhouses on West 158th Street, constructed in 1896-98.

Audubon Park Apartments 3750 Broadway Designed by Schwartz & Gross 1905 Completed in 1905, the Audubon Park Apartments was one of the first apartment buildings constructed in the neighborhood. A 1906 advertisement for the building described the unspoiled nature of the area, promoting its location “on Washington Heights, Manhattan’s only section of natural beauty - adds the charm of country to the city house.” Offering unobstructed views of the Hudson River and surrounding countryside, the building’s “extra large” apartments boasted a “long distance telephone in each apartment.” Notice the building’s initials “APA” inscribed in the cartouche above the entrance. Many apartment buildings built during the subway boom of the 1900s were given names to lend them an air of prestige and distinguish themselves from their neighbors.

514 West 160th Street, ca. 1932.

517 West 161st Street, north side, between Amsterdam Ave., and Broadway. Building is a frame house. November of 1927.

455 West 164th Street, ca. 1932.

An eclectic three-story semi-detached frame house owned by the Church of Our Lady of Esperanza, a part of the Audubon Terrace complex, with an entrance across Broadway on 156th Street, 1932.

The earliest development of Madam Stephen Jumel’s property (at present-day St. Nicholas Avenue and 160th Street) was undertaken in 1882 by members of her family who were anxious to derive some income from her land-rich estate. By 1880 the old carriage drive from Kingsbridge Highway had been graded, widened, paved and renamed St. Nicholas Avenue in honor of the patron saint of the Netherlands. In 1882 architect Gilbert Robinson Jr. designed a row of wooden houses meant to be rented to working-class Irish immigrants. These structures, which seem so charming to us today, were quite commonplace in the poor sections of northern Manhattan at the end of the nineteenth century. Considered to be just a step above tenement houses, such small frame dwellings were discouraged in lower Manhattan by both the higher valuation of property and a more stringent enforcement of fire codes. Over the years, the owners of these houses fell victim to promises of maintenance-free living offered by high-pressure brick-face and stucco, asphalt, and aluminum-siding contractors. In 1979, through an almost unprecedented program, the Landmarks Preservation Commission used federal funds to restore the houses to their original appearance. This ambitious project was carried out by Polonia Restoration.

The 159th Street Yard, ca. 1945. Just north of the Polo Grounds, the 159th Street Yard served the Ninth Avenue El until its closure in 1940. By 1942, the city was accepting bids for the yard to be dismantled, and for its scrap metal to be salvaged for the war effort. Eventually, the yard was cleared for the construction of the Colonial Park Houses (now the NYCHA Ralph Rangel Houses) between 1948-51.

North side of West 154th Street from St, Nicholas to Amsterdam Avenues, 1924. This row of seven houses (of an original 11) were constructed in 1883-1884 and designed by architect James Stroud. The Queen Anne style rowhouses have alternating models in a symmetrical order with no. 417 being the center of the grouping. No. 417 is seen at the center of this photography with the projecting gambrel gable and half timbered central pedimented dormer. These features were unique colonial style elements added to the Queen Anne buildings. George H. Putnam, head of the G. P. Putnam book publishing company, lived at no. 417 for some time around the turn of the 20th century. All of the homes are set back from the front lot line, have a stepped garden, and all are entered by a long double flight set of stairs. Today they are in various conditions, though most have not been drastically altered.

1932 storefronts on Amsterdam Avenue include the Akaleus Bakery lunch counter, a butcher and dairy shop, carpenter, and Bond Bread, whose awning advertises “hot roast chickens.” Though the facades have been altered, each building remains standing.

Church of the Intercession 550 West 155th Street Design by: chapel: Bertram Grosvenor Goodhue, 1912-15 vicarage: Cram, Goodhue and Ferguson, 1911-14 NYC Individual Landmark, National Register of Historic Places This Gothic Revival style church was completed in 1915, but its Episcopal congregation was founded in 1846. Before its construction, the congregation occupied two other buildings: the first at West 154th Street and Tenth Avenue (later Amsterdam Avenue) and the second at West 158th Street and Broadway. In 1906, in need of a larger space but facing financial constraints, the parish entered into an agreement with Trinity Church, which owned the surrounding cemetery, to become a chapel of Trinity, which had been planning to construct a chapel in the cemetery anyway. The parish and structure would be known as the Chapel of the Intercession until 1976, when the parish became independent once more. Its architect, Bertram Grosvenor Goodhue, was a partner in the firm of Cram, Goodhue & Ferguson, which was renowned for its ecclesiastical architecture, and this building is considered one of Goodhue’s masterpieces. Goodhue clearly favored the building, as he is buried in a tomb in the church’s north transept. The Tudor Revival style vicarage is connected to the church by a cloister surrounding a small courtyard.

Row houses at 508-510 West 159th Street, “both are frame houses with part stucco and brick fronts,” 1932. This block of 159th Street once included an eclectic mix of row houses, large wood-frame homes, garages and, by the 1930s, apartment buildings.

447 West 163rd Street, ca. 1932.

The Polo Grounds from atop Coogan’s Bluff, ca. 1910. Home to the New York Giants baseball team, the stadium pictured is the third to use the name Polo Grounds: the first was located at the northeast corner of Central Park, and the second at an adjacent site in Coogan’s Hollow. A 1911 fire caused extensive damage, leading to the reconstruction of a concrete-and-steel stadium, the “fourth” Polo Grounds. In the background, the Macombs Dam Bridge (right), Putnam Bridge (left), Harlem River and the western edge of the Bronx are visible.

Food merchants along Amsterdam Avenue, including dairy, fruit, meat, and seafood vendors, 1932.

Morris-Jumel Mansion, entrance detail, ca. 1970.

The Chapel of the Intercession, ca. 1915. Designed by architect Bertram Grosvenor Goodhue, the Gothic Revival church was completed in 1915 on the grounds of the Trinity Church Cemetery (itself on former estate of John James Audubon, a founder of the congregation).

"The New York Elevated Railroad Company built a line on Third Avenue to 129th Street at the Harlem River in 1878; a year later the company upgraded the Ninth Avenue line and extended it to 155th Street in northern Manhattan. The Gilbert (after 1878, Metropolitan) Elevated Company built and opened a line on Sixth Avenue to 58th Street in 1878, built a connection to the Ninth Avenue line on 53rd Street, and by 1880 completed a line on Second Avenue. In 1879 the companies merged to form the Manhattan Railway Company. By 1880 all four elevated lines had reached the Harlem River. Early in 1954 the New York City Transit Authority, NYCTA, which succeeded the Board of Transportation, concluded that the Third Avenue line was no longer needed south of 149th Street. Supposedly, the Lexington Avenue subway and East Side buses had adequate capacity to carry former Third Avenue riders in Manhattan. In the best interests of the city, the El would be closed and demolished. With one exception, the Third Avenue El fleet was destroyed..." For more on the Third Avenue El, check out this article by Lawrence Stelter in Gotham: A Blog for Scholars of New York City History.

A restaurant at the corner of West 163rd Street and Amsterdam Avenue advertises chop suey, 1934.

Top view faces south on Broadway, from between 159th and 160th Streets. Bottom view is the reverse, north on Broadway, with the Loew’s Rio Theatre at center, ca. 1914. Cab drivers are using the Broadway median to park, while they await fares from theatergoers. Due to competition from larger theaters in the area, the Rio closed in 1957.

William McKinley Temple, data unknown. Built in 1925 for the William McKinley Lodge No. 840, today the building maintains this Masonic purpose. The Classical Revival style lodge was lost to foreclosure in 1936, though it seems that the groups continued to meet in the space for some time. From 1938 until the late 1980s, the building was occupied by the Savage School for Physical Education, a training school for physical education teachers. Today the building is the Most Worshipful Prince Hall Grand Lodge, a African American masonic community that was actively involved in the Civil Rights movement and continues to work on social service projects in the communities surrounding their lodges.

Washington Heights Free Library, undated postcard. The Washington Heights Free Library was originally established in 1868 as a fee-based membership institution called the Washington Heights Library. In the 1870s, J. Hood Wright, a Wall Street banker and member of the local community, became involved with the library. He began making donations with the agreement that the services be rendered free. The renamed Washington Heights Free Library constructed a neo-Classical building on St. Nicholas in 1900 after occupying a series of rented spaces. The cost of the building was underwritten by subscriptions from friends of the library, and a late donation from Andrew Carnegie helped the institution reach the required amount. In 1901, the Washington Heights Free Library was absorbed into the New York Public Library system. The small library building seen in this postcard was replaced with a larger more modern library facility a few block to the north at 1000 St. Nicholas Avenue in 1914. (This one was funded by entirely by Carnegie.) Today the Free Library building still stands, and is the long-time home to the Bethel Holy Church, who has occupied the building since 1949.

504 West 160th Street, ca. 1932

The naturalist John James Audubon is best known for "The Birds of America," the comprehensive, hand-painted ornithological survey published between 1827-1839, but it was his 1841 purchase of a riverfront estate that came to influence the development of Washington Heights, Riverside Drive, and Upper Manhattan beyond the Commissioner’s Plan grid.

“519-521 West 158th Street, north side, west of Amsterdam Avenue. Both are three-story frame houses. 1932.” The sign advertises a tailor at no. 521. The clapboard and shingle facades have been replaced, and the wooden porches dismantled, but the bones of this row of frame houses remain.

“St. Nicholas Avenue (Old Kingsbridge Road) at N.E. corner of 155th Street, showing houses numbered 906 to 918, adjoining the vacant corner. One of these, no. 906, antedates 1885; the others were built shortly after. Early in the 1920s 906 and 908, the two nearest to the camera, will be taken down and the block rebuild to the corner. About 1912.”

Trinity Church Cemetery and Mausoleum, ca. 1910. Trinity Church Cemetery and Mausoleum has the distinction of being the only truly active cemetery in Manhattan (Ed Koch was buried there in 2013). Established by Trinity Church, the graveyard began interments in 1842 when a ban on burials in lower Manhattan was enacted. The cemetery grounds were laid out by architect James Renwick, Jr. (the land had earlier been the site of the Battle of Fort Washington). Famous and infamous permanent residences include John James Audubon, John Jacob Astor, Clement Clarke Moore (among the three named persons) as well as writer Ralph Ellison, Aaron Burr's ex wife, Eliza Jumel, and well-loved actor Jerry Orbach.

This Presidents Day, we wanted to take a look back at some of the most iconic places that the nation's executives have occupied in New York over the years. Here is a list of a few of our favorites!

Independent Subway System Station (155 Street and St. Nicholas Avenue). Phone booth, 1932. This photograph depicts the booths at 155th Street Station of the IND Eighth Avenue Line (now a local station on the C train). This station opened on September 10, 1932. Because of the tiled walls, callers had issues with echoing and reverberations from the noise outside the booth. In the IND stations opened in 1940 on the Sixth Avenue Line, similar phone booths were constructed but with sound absorbing material on the upper halves of the niche. Signage near these later booths announced, "New Sound Absorbing Booths- You Hear Clearly."

Manhattan's oldest surviving house, the 1765 Morris-Jumel Mansion, is today located at West 160th Street and St. Nicholas Avenue. Perched upon Mount Morris, Harlem Heights' highest elevation, the house is now set within a ten-acre city park and is flanked by Victorian row houses and apartment buildings of a later date. Originally, it dominated the open countryside, occupying some 130 acres between the Harlem and Hudson Rivers. Mary Phillipse Morris and Colonel Roger Morris moved into the mansion the year after it was completed in 1765. Public agitation against the English Crown soon forced Loyalist Morris, a member of the King's Council that governed New York, to flee to England with his family. In 1776, General George Washington established his headquarters there; after American forces evacuated Manhattan, Hessian soldiers fighting for England made it their camp. In 1779, the property was confiscated by the State of New York. It served for some years as an inn. The most imposing of houses built by English colonists in Harlem, the Morris Mansion also is among the earliest examples in the United States of a temple-fronted house with a giant order of columns. During the nineteenth century, the mansion was wrongly regarded as a rare example of southern architecture in the North. In fact, both the antebellum plantation house and the Morris Mansion were inspired by work of sixteenth-century Venetian architect Andrea Palladio, popularized and modified by British architects. In April 1810, French-born wine merchant Stephen Jumel and his wife, Eliza Bowen Jumel, purchased the mansion and the surrounding thirty-six acres. Along with many of his compatriots, Jumel had fled the Haitian revolution and settled in New York City. The Jumels renovated the mansion, generally preserving its interior. New additions included the front door, with a fanlight and leaded-glass sidelights inset with stained glass, a pioneering innovation. Madam Jumel died in 1865, leaving Harlem's finest house as a monument not only to its previous inhabitants but also to the entire eventful past and transforming fortunes of the area. Her heirs soon began a protracted fight over her estate that ended with a marathon auction. The house came into the possession of her great-nephew. In 1903, the City of New York purchased the property. The following year, it opened as a house museum, now administered by Morris-Jumel Mansion, Inc

79-81 St. Nicholas Place, west side, between West 153rd and 155th Streets, showing a 6-story apartment house (no. 79), 1924.

516-518 West 160th Street, ca. 1932.

From its beginning, the Forward covered sports – the sports of chess and fishing, that is. In fact, its early highbrow sports coverage was a bit of a joke around town. But by the 1920s, the Forward’s sports pages began to give its readers the baseball news they wanted.

The Day Star Baptist Church at 512 West 157th Street, 1932. Despite numerous renovations, the shared covered porch between nos. 516-520 is still visible today. The advertisement on the side of no. 522 is for Chas. Berlin property management.