Sydenham Hospital, 1925. Sydenham opened as a private hospital in a Harlem brownstone in 1892. The hospital served mostly African-American patients who lived in the neighborhood. To meet the needs of its growing community, Sydenham moved to West 125th Street and Lenox Avenue in 1924. Though Harlem was a largely African-American neighborhood, the staff of the hospital was reported to be all-white in 1944; likely due to the fact that discrimination within the medical community left little to no opportunities for African American healthcare professionals. To amend this, the hospital employed a desegregation policy, which was radical at the time. Sydenham hired twenty African Americans to its staff and brought six African Americans onto its Board, making it the first full-service hospital to hire black physicians. By 1947, the New York Times wrote that it was "praised...for its inter-racial activities...an example for the entire world," by Eleanor Roosevelt, who spoke at a fundraiser on behalf of the hospital. After the fundraiser, the director Dr. Sigmund L. Friedman made the statement that Sydenham was "the best place to prove that race, creed, and color have no importance in the hospital." The fundraiser that Mrs. Roosevelt spoke at was just one of many attempts to keep the hospital fiscally afloat. Throughout its existence, Sydenham was ridden with money problems. Finally bending to financial strain in 1949, the hospital was transferred from private ownership to New York City's municipal hospital system, though it allowed private patients to continue seeing doctors at Sydenham to "preserve the interracial practice of the hospital." In 1979, Sydenham Hospital became the center of a massive walk-out staged by the Committee for Interns and Residents. When Ed Koch took office as the Mayor in 1977, he reduced city spending on all municipal hospitals. Two hospitals in Harlem, Sydenham and Metropolitan, were slated for closure. Harlem was a "medically underserved area," and the two public hospitals were vital for the community's wellbeing. Additionally, Sydenham's sickle cell anemia clinic, led by Florence Gaynor, was of importance to the medical community at large. Unfortunately, countless public rallies and demonstrations were ignored by the city and in 1980, the city officially closed Sydenham. The hospital was subsequently occupied by "The People's Administration," for 10-days of protest, who brought national attention to the importance of the hospital. Sydenham's demise provided a cautionary lesson. In 1998, reflecting on the changing terrain of public healthcare in New York City, Sharon Lerner wrote in the Village Voice: "The Sydenham blunder paved the way for today’s more clandestine approach to hospital downsizing, in which the city reduces its contribution to the Health and Hospitals Corporation and the agency is thereby ”forced” to make cuts to the public hospitals."

498 West 130th Street, ca. 1932.

L.M. Blumstein department store, 125th Street. March 21, 1954. Louis Blumstein, a German Immigrant, opened a department store on West 125th Street in 1898. Over the next two decades, the street continued to develop into an uptown shopping district. Blumstein died in 1920, but his family pressed on with expansion plans, breaking ground on a new, eight-story building in 1921. The hybrid Art Nouveau-Art Deco structure stretched the entire block between 124th and 125th Streets and made extensive use of copper ornamentation on its main facade. As African-American families moved to Harlem in greater numbers, the entirely white sales staff at Blumstein’s became a point of tension in the neighborhood. In 1934, the Citizens’ League For Fair Play organized a successful boycott of the store, leading to a change in its hiring practices. In 1943, Blumstein’s became the first department store to feature black mannequins and a black Santa Claus as part of its holiday programming. On September 20, 1958, Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. was stabbed at a book signing held at Blumstein’s. Izola Curry stabbed the civil rights leader with a letter opener, nearly piercing his aorta. A bystander wisely cautioned onlookers not to remove the letter opener, lest it cause damage on the way out, likely saving King’s life. The Blumstein family sold the building in 1976.

This view looking west into the park from 120th Street and Morningside Avenue shows the Morningside Drive overlook at the top of the steep east-west rise. Preserving views across the park and from the park towards Harlem and Long Island was a key concept of the Olmsted and Vaux design for Morningside Park.

407 West 130th Street, unknown date.

The Winfield Scott Hancock Statue commemorates the United States Army Officer and presidential nominee who fought in numerous wars including the Mexican War, Seminole War, and Civil War. The Board of Aldermen dedicated this recently acquired plot of land to the war hero in 1886. Sculptor James Wilson Alexander MacDonald likely based this piece on a plaster mask taken of Hancock the year he ran for president. A smaller casting is part of the Metropolitan Museum of Art's collection.

We are looking east along West 123rd Street in this view from Amsterdam Avenue. This is the northern boundary of the park. We see the Block House No. 4, a remnant fortification built but never used to defend the city in the war of 1812. PS 36 now sits on this same outcropping. One of the other block houses built at this time still survives in the north woods of Central Park.

Hancock Park was dedicated to war hero Winfield Scott Hancock in 1886 by the New York City Board of Aldermen. The board gained possession of this property the year of Hancock's death and saw fit to celebrate the decorated general. The Coalition of 100 Black Women has maintained this small park since 1981. Recent plantings have included the introduction of evergreens, tulips, and a perennial garden.

Block House #4, ca. 1905. Block House #4 sat on the massive glacial rock outcropping at 123rd Street and Amsterdam Avenue. It was one of a series of stone defense fortifications constructed around the War of 1812. Despite the preparation for the perceived threat of British invasion, the British never made it to Manhattan during the war. The ruins of Block House #4 remained on the outcropping until the 1960s when Public School 36 was constructed on the site. The sections of the school where built directly on the large rock, which can still be seen on the 123rd Street side. A single block house survives in the northern section of Central Park; it is also situated on a large rock outcropping.

The Apollo Theater is located at 253 West 125th Street. For more than forty years it was the country’s most important venue for black entertainment. Built in 1913, it was originally a vaudeville and burlesque house known as Hurtig & Seamon’s New Theater. Amateur Night, introduced by showman Ralph Cooper, Sr., has been a staple at the Apollo since its opening in 1934. Ella Fitzgerald, Sarah Vaughan, Billie Holiday, James Brown, and the Jackson Five are just a few of the winners of Amateur Night.

Apollo Theater, ca. 1985. The most famous music venue in Harlem was opened as a “Whites Only” burlesque theater in 1914. It reopened as the Apollo Theater in 1934. From the swing bands of the 1930s to soul and gospel, rock, and blues, the Apollo has been host to Duke Ellington, Count Basie, the Staple Sisters, Mahalia Jackson, Ray Charles, Otis Redding, Aretha Franklin, Dave Brubeck, Stan Getz, Buddy Holly, Billie Holiday, Diana Ross & the Supremes, The Jackson 5, Marvin Gaye, Luther Vandross, Art Blakey, Dizzy Gillespie, James Brown, George Clinton and the Parliament-Funkadelic, Al Green, and in 2012, President Barack Obama singing "Let’s Stay Together" to Al Green.

Bancroft Hall Designed and built in 1910 by esteemed architect Emery Roth, Bancroft Hall differed from the general Beaux Arts flavored Morningside Heights. The Vienna Secessionist style building features copper-clad bay windows and a timber Tuscan-style roof. Though designed for apartments, it was purchased to serve as a dormitory by the Teachers College/

This rare early view of the north end of the park looks east-northeast from Amsterdam Avenue near West 122nd Street. We see what we now know as Morningside Drive (it was earlier called both Morningside Avenue and Morningside Avenue West) curving off to the right. We see how the park connected to Amsterdam Avenue. This connection was lost when a public school (PS36) was built in this section of the park in the mid 1960’s.

O'Reilly Storage, April 13, 1925. One of the tallest structures in this area of Harlem, the O'Reilly Storage was constructed in 1892 as a storage facility to serve the new residents of the booming middle class neighborhood. The orange and red brick building stood for more than a century, becoming the Dwyer Warehouse in the 1960s. By the start of the 21st century, the building was in poor condition and was largely razed in 2005. The condominium that rose in its place includes some small portion of the original building's base and calls to mind the former structure with orange bricks and a similar silhouette, complete with hexagonal corner tower.

Another view of the Block House No. 4 and the exposed manhattan schist face where West 123rd Street was cut through at the northern termination of the park. As we’ve seen in this story, the geology and resulting dramatic topography of a ridge of Manhattan Schist is a defining feature of Morningside Park. In fact, it’s only due to the daunting nature of this rock that Andrew Haswell Green decided to not extend the east-west street grid through this part of Manhattan and instead called for a park to be designed and constructed on this land.

Janus Court, 1913. Built by private developers in 1910, Janus Court would only function as a private residence for less than a decade. In 1919, Teachers College at Columbia University purchased the building to meet the demand for student housing. It was renamed Seth Low Hall, and is the only Columbia building named for the once university president (the well-known Low Law Library is named for Seth's father, Abiel Abbot Low.

ST. JOSEPH’S CHURCH, MANHATTAN Address: 401-403 West 125th Street Architect: Constructed: 1860 Church of St. Joseph of the Holy Family is the oldest church in Harlem and the oldest church north of 44th Street, completed in 1860. The modest Romanesque structure was originally built for German immigrants, and was expanded in 1889 by the Herter Brothers.

Jacob Schieffelin gave the land for St. Mary's Episcopal Church. The parish was formed to minister to the poor in 1823 by fashionable St. Michael's Church in Bloomingdale at the north end of the present-day Upper West Side, where Schieffelin served as a vestryman. By the 1830s, St. Mary's had the distinction of being the first "free" Episcopal church in the nation, charging no annual fee for pew rental. The rectory of St. Mary's Church at present-day 521 West 126th Street was built about 1840 by architect Robert Oughton. It survived a turn-of-the-century fire that destroyed the church. The church was quickly replaced-and enlarged-by the Schieffelin family (newly enriched through an alliance with the Vanderbilts). With a long history of serving the poor and the working class, it would survive in a changing Harlem where other churches failed.

Apollo Theater ARCHITECT: George Keister DATE: 1913-14 The Apollo Theater was for four decades starting in the 1930s one of New York City’s and the nation’s foremost arenas for leading popular black American performing talent. It retains much of its original character, including its proscenium and flanking boxes and classically-inspired plaster ornament. Its construction reflects the early twentieth-century entertainment history of vaudeville and burlesque in Harlem, in particular, the tradition of Harlem theaters which displayed black performers in a variety show format. The Apollo Theater was graced by the presence of nearly all major black American performers at some point in their careers, reflects the migration of blacks to Harlem and represents the cultural contributions of Harlem and black Americans to New York City and the nation.

West 125th Street, north side between St. Nicholas Avenue and Fredrick Douglas Boulevard, June 21, 1934. Frank's Restaurant is seen at center with the neon sign hanging out from the building. For much of its early 20th century history Frank's only allowed African Americans in the bar but not the restaurant proper. Exceptions to this were famous entertainers and politicians. The story goes that in the 1940s heavyweight champ Joe Louis would often bring large groups to Frank's and they would seat them, not wanting to reject the wishes of the celebrity. By the 1950s Frank's was integrated.

St. Mary's Episcopal Church, 1931. The parish of St. Mary's dates to the early 19th century when Manhattanville was its own town. Organized in 1823, the first church building, a simple wood-frame chapel with a short steeple, was constructed in 1824-1826. It was once described, "St. Mary's was white and severely plain on the outside and square and bare within." In 1831 this parish became New York's first Episcopal church to abolish pew rentals, a practice of raising funds that often created a hierarchy among the community. The first structure survived until the turn of the century, but then succumbed to the oft destroyer of wood-frame buildings: fire. A new neo-Gothic church was constructed in 1908-1909 by Theodore E. Blake, in association with Carrère & Hastings. The simple church with herringbone brickwork trimmed with concrete, was a sort of departure for all architects involved. Blake worked more commonly on homes, especially later as a individual architect, while Carrère & Hastings (Blake was long Hastings' assistant) were usually involved in much more ornate structures.

The Borden’s Milk ice cream parlor at Eighth Avenue (Frederick Douglass Boulevard) and West 125th Street, 1939. Photographer Sid Grossman’s shot captures a busy street scene on Eighth Avenue, underneath the tracks of the IRT Ninth Avenue El, which ran over Eighth Avenue above 110th Street. The shot also includes a No. 10 bus, bound for Macombs Place and West 154th Street.

As African Americans migrated uptown to Harlem in large numbers in the 1910s and ’20s, existing theaters began showcasing black performers. Some of these venues welcomed black audiences. The Apollo Theater, which had operated as a burlesque venue in the 1910s and ’20s, was relatively late in bringing on black entertainers. Although performers such as blues singer Alberta Hunter are said to have appeared here as early as 1930, African-American performers became the rule under new ownership in 1932. Three years later, again under new ownership, the Apollo instituted a permanent variety show format featuring leading black talent that would last until the 1970s. This was particularly important as, even through the 1950s, few major theaters across the United States featured black entertainers. Every form of popular African-American entertainment – comedy, drama, dance, gospel, blues, jazz, rhythm and blues, swing, bebop, rock and roll, and soul music – was showcased at the Apollo. LGBT luminaries included comedian Jackie “Moms” Mabley; singers Bessie Smith, Alberta Hunter, Billie Holiday, Ethel Waters, Willie Mae “Big Mama” Thornton, Josephine Baker, Clyde McPhatter, Little Richard, Carmen McRae, Johnny Mathis, Arthur Conley, Carolyn Franklin (and sister of Aretha), Billy Preston, Nona Hendryx, Teddy Pendergrass, and Luther Vandross; and gospel greats Clara Ward, Sister Rosetta Tharpe, Marie Knight, Alex Bradford, Ruth Davis, Jackie Verdell, and James Cleveland.

West End Theatre, ca. 1915. Designed by the firm of Neville & Bragge in a Spanish Baroque style, the West End Theatre opened in 1902. The following year it was sold to a duo of comedians and theatre producers named Webber and Fields. Between 1975 and 2016 the building was occupied by the La Gree Baptist Church. After being sold in 2016, plan have been announced to convert the building into a mixed use, residential and commercial building.