17 East 128th Street ca. 1864 This charming building is one of the few surviving wood frame houses in Harlem, built when Harlem was still a rural village separate from New York City. Designed with Second Empire and Italianate elements by an unknown architect, the house is clad in wood clapboard and features a full-width porch and a slate mansard roof. The house stands as a reminder of Harlem’s early history before being annexed to the city in 1873. 17 East 128th Street is a designated New York City Individual Landmark .

Gus Hill's Minstrels, 1935. Gus Hill (born Gustave Metz) was vaudeville performer who was originally known for his juggling of large pins, called Indian clubs. Hill became a burlesque and vaudeville impresario. He founded the Columbia Amusement Company and was the president of the American Burlesque Association. The building seen here was constructed circa 1869. The Minstrels likely performed in a space within the building, which as various times also hosted political meetings and a gymnasium. The unseen ground floor of this large structure included a garage, a Chinese laundry, a paint store, a drugstore, a produce stand, and a restaurant.

Advance Division of the Universal Negro Improvement Organization, 1939. The UNIA, founded by Marcus Garvey in 1914, advocated universal black solidarity and exerted considerable influence prior to Garvey’s 1925 deportation. The organization was headquartered on 135th Street in Harlem, and operated hundreds of chapters worldwide. The buildings on in this photograph were demolished by Robert Moses, under the pretense of slum clearance, for the construction of the Lenox Terrace housing development, which now occupies the superblock between 132nd and 135th Streets, Fifth Avenue, and Malcolm X Boulevard (then Lenox Avenue).

2002–2008 5th Avenue Designed by Christian Brand 1868 These Italianate brownstone houses are survivors of the early development that started in Harlem beginning in the 1860s but was temporarily halted because of the Panic of 1873 and the economic depression that followed. They predate the oldest buildings in the designated Mount Morris Park Historic District and are virtually intact.

Janes Walk 2023 Our Lovely Tour Guide: Kathy Bensen-Haskins As we make our way to the first stop on the tour, we will give you some background on Landmark East Harlem. It was founded in 2015 by a coalition of organizations and individuals whose mission is to protect the special character of the neighborhood. We do this by working to secure City landmark designation and State and National Register listing for individual properties and historic districts in East Harlem. We also advocate for contextual new development and adaptive reuse of older properties. We have succeeded in getting three individual buildings designated by the New York City Landmarks Preservation Commission and East Harlem’s first historic district listed on the State and National Registers. We hope the area we are about to tour will be the second historic district so listed later this year. In 2020 we commissioned a historic preservationist to conduct a reconnaissance historic resource survey for the area we are about to tour. Later this year, the New York State Board for Historic Preservation will meet and review nominations for both individual structures and districts, and we hope it will recommend the district for listing on the State Register of Historic Places. It will then be forwarded to the National Park Service for review and listing on the National Register.

The Works Progress Administration's Federal Art Project (WPA/FAP), part of President Franklin D. Roosevelt's New Deal to stimulate the economy and create jobs during the Great Depression, employed thousands of artists between 1935 and 1943 to create artworks for public spaces. This groundbreaking democratic experiment celebrated and supported American art and artists by providing a source of income, enhancing public buildings, and enriching the lives of Americans in the throes of the Great Depression. The Art Commission reviewed hundreds of Federal Art Project commissions during this period, including murals, sculpture and mosaics. A significant portion of the WPA/FAP commissions in our collection were installed in public health and hospital facilities. There is a noticeable shift in theme and tone depending on the location of murals. Murals in children's wards often focused on nursery rhymes and fanciful themes, while those in nurses' recreation rooms were "relaxing" and focused on familial scenes. Murals in doctors' recreation rooms focused on the history and progress of medicine, while those in psychiatric wards sought to provide therapy for mental distress. In the late 1930s, the WPA/FAP commissioned a series of murals for Harlem Hospital, located on the east side of Lenox Avenue between 136th Street and 137th Street. It was the first major United States government commission awarded to African American artists. While the WPA approved the artists' sketches, the hospital's superintendent and the commissioner of hospitals objected to four of the proposed murals on the grounds that they included too much "Negro" subject matter. In response, the Harlem Artists Guild, the Artists Union, and the hospital's first African American physician, Louis T. Wright, worked to support the artists and publicize the controversy. With this support, the artists prevailed and their murals were submitted to the Art Commission for review and approval. In 1993, the two Harlem Hospital murals by Charles Alston were conserved through the Municipal Art Society's Adopt-A-Mural program. Starting in 2005, as part of the construction of the new Harlem Hospital Center, murals by Charles Alston, Alfred Crimi, Vertis Hayes and Georgette Seabrooke were removed from the old building and conserved. In 2012, they were reinstalled prominently in the center's Mural Pavilion, celebrating the hospital and Harlem's rich African American history and culture.

Saint Andrew’s Church ARCHITECT: Henry M. Gordon DATE: 1872-73 STYLE: Gothic, Church The architectural composition of Saint Andrew’s Church is distinctive and picturesque in the Gothic manner. Constructed of rock-faced granite, the Church’s rugged appearance has a solid quality and great dignity. The interesting massing of structural elements culminates in a handsome clock tower, adjacent to the south transept on 127th Street. Two graceful pointed-arch openings on each side of the belfry give form and deep shadow to the tower, while the slate-covered spire is adorned at each corner by delicate turrets. Cruciform in shape, the plan has galleries in the transept and side aisles in the nave. Simple buttresses, at the exterior of the south aisle wall, lend structural support and considerable interest to the design.

Gristede Brothers, ca. 1921. Founded by two teenage brothers, Diedrich (Dick) and Charles Gristede, in 1888, Gristede's would become a city mainstay over the next half century. The original small grocery store, located at 42nd Street and 2nd Avenue, prospered and within 50 years the grocery store had become a successful chain with more than 150 stores in the city, Westchester, Long Island and Connecticut. This 128th Street location opened in a new purpose-built structure in 1920. Today the building still stands, sans the 'Gristede Brothers 1920' lettering that once graced the triangular pediment at the top.

The Harlem Hospital, now the Harlem Hospital Center, ca. 1915. The Harlem Hospital was opened as a holding center for patients awaiting treatment at Randalls Island, Ward Island, and Bellevue Hospital. The facilities were opened in 1897 in a Victorian Mansion at East 120th Street bordering the East River. The 54-bed facility, which was founded under the Department of Public Charities and Corrections, had to quickly expand to accommodate an influx of new African American residents to the neighborhood of Harlem in the early 20th century. By 1907, the Harlem Hospital moved to its current location, at Lenox Avenue between 136th and 137th Street. Today, the hospital remains a symbol of pride for the Black community of Harlem: it's where James Baldwin was born, where Martin Luther King was treated after a near-fatal stabbing and a site of many of the community's great struggles. In 1998, former state judge Bruce Wright told the New York Times the Harlem Hospital was "like a mother figure." From the 1890s until the 1920s, reforms were taking place in various cities across the country, and New York was no exception. City bureaucracies such as the police force, firefighters, and medical unions vied for autonomy from city governance. African American communities, who already found it difficult to secure positions of power in the political sphere, were now barred from participation altogether by discriminatory policies of unions, societies, and "expert" groups. Autonomous bureaucracies were formed to "reduce drastically both the access of nonwhite outsiders and of their own executive and supervisory ranks," according to an essay titled: "Black Power and the Rise of Bureaucratic Autonomy in New York City Politics: The Case of Harlem Hospital." The essay also asserts that the city hospital bureaucracy, comprised of various medical societies and "lay groups" in the field "skillfully asserted their monopoly in the area of health 'expertise' in order to resist what they viewed as the intrusion of nonwhite doctors and dentists." These groups maintained an unequal distribution of wealth and benefits amongst urban populations. Black New Yorkers were barred from joining self-governing city bureaucracies, firstly due to racist policies and because these communities had little access to reach the educational or fiscal status membership required. Bureaucracy leaders feared African Americans might outrank them if they were allowed to participate in these groups in any capacity. Following the end of World War I, city politicians became suspicious of these organizations and began pushing for greater integration. By 1919, the first African American physician in any city hospital, Dr. Louis T. Wright, was appointed a visiting-staff member at the Harlem Hospital. Though he was given the lowest possible position, this opened the doors for six other African American physicians to be hired. A group of white doctors and staff members resigned as an act of protest, but this only encouraged Wright. He later became the first Black Police Surgeon, the first Black recipient of the American College of Surgeons fellowship, and the Director of the Department of Surgery in 1943. However, Wright was not the only Black medical professional that Harlem Hospital fostered. In 1923, the Hospital opened the Harlem Hospital School of Nursing to train Black nurses, who weren't allowed to train at any other city hospital. The school closed in 1977, though it played a vital role in training generations of young Black medical professionals. The Harlem Hospital saved the life of Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. on September 20th, 1958. The civil rights activist was stabbed at his own book signing at the Harlem location of Blumstein's, pictured here. Reportedly, the wound was so severe that "a sneeze could have killed him:" the letter opener which was lodged in Dr. King's chest had barely missed his aorta. A team of Surgeons, both Black and white, operated on King for over two hours, saving the young leader's life. A few decades later, in the 1980s, the New York State Department of Health and Health Care Financing Administration (HCFA) found numerous instances of patient harm, violations of the state hospital and Medicare standards, and "primarily in the areas of nursing care and the building's cleanliness and safety," including an unusually high death rate, reported in "Medicare Standards at Harlem Hospital." Beginning in 1987, the HCFA has regularly monitored the conditions of the hospital and noted great improvements in the facilities and care the hospital offers. This would not be the last of the hospital's troubles: after reducing the tax subsidy to public hospitals from 228 million dollars to just 60 million dollars in 1995, Mayor Rudy Giuliani tried to lay off around 1,500 members of the hospital's staff. The Harlem Hospital, like other city hospitals, was in danger of being sold off to a private company due to its lack of profitability. ...

"127th Street, north side, west from No. 29. In the background is St. Andrew's Protestant Episcopal Church, at No. 1-9 East 127th Street, July 28, 1932." This block of East 127th Street between Madison Avenue and Fifth Avenue has been give the honorific name of “Langston Hughes Place.” Hughes lived in an apartment on the top floor of the brownstone at no. 20 (approximately halfway down the block on the left) between 1947 and 1967. The 1869-built rowhouse was designated a New York City Landmark in 1981 due to its connection to Hughes.

Harlem was once a quiet suburban village. Until the mid-19th century, the area was largely undeveloped; most structures were isolated, free-standing frame houses. This collection surveys some of the frame houses that once stood in Upper Manhattan — including a few hardy examples that have survived to the present day.

A direct means of making Harlem's first apartment buildings more attractive to potential tenants was the practice of including an ornate banking room on the ground floor. In fact, before 1920, bank buildings that did not include apartment suites were uncommon. The Mount Morris Bank/Morris Apartments was the result of a limited competition that included McKim, Mead & White. Designed by Lamb & Rich and completed in 1884, the structure housed apartments that were later transformed into offices. Splendidly devised, the cherry-red brick and terra-cotta structure exhibited a stylistic lineage derived from Romanesque, Queen Anne, and Dutch sources. It was one of Lamb's great achievements. One of about six small banks founded in late nineteenth-century Harlem, the Mount Morris Bank was by 1913 absorbed by a mightier citywide financial institution, the Corn Exchange Bank. The building itself was partially destroyed by arson in 1997.

52 West 132nd Street, ca. 1932.

Playground on West 133rd Street, undated photo. The West 134th Street bath house is visible at upper left. The buildings in this photo would all be razed ahead of the construction of the Lincoln Houses.

Station house for the FDNY’s Engine 87 (Marine), November 24, 1937. The Engine 87 marine company was established in 1908, with a station house on the Harlem River at 132nd Street. The company moved to the facility shown in Berenice Abbott’s photo in 1922. Construction of the Harlem River Drive caused the station house to move to the Lower East Side, at the foot of Grand Street in 1954, before the company was disbanded in 1954.

As New York battles the Coronavirus pandemic this summer, city businesses and public spaces are re-opening in phases. In Phase 3, libraries, tattoo parlors, spas, massage and nail salons, basketball and tennis courts, dog runs, and public beaches are among the spaces to open back up to the public—including some of these long-standing New York City establishments.

Take your mother for a stroll around East and Central Harlem above 125th Street, straddling Fifth Avenue, the traditional dividing line between East and Central Harlem. Members of Landmark East Harlem (LEH) will introduce you to the treasures of the second historic district that LEH has proposed for listing on the National and State Registers of Historic Places. Featured sites include 19th-century wood-frame houses, Victorian-era rowhouses, landmarks associated with James Baldwin and Langston Hughes, former church buildings that have been given new purpose, and the brownstone stoop that served as the site of the iconic 1958 photograph of jazz musicians by Art Kane for Esquire magazine.

St. Andrew's Episcopal Church ca. 1912 St. Andrew's, the first Protestant Episcopal congregation in Harlem, was organized in 1829 and opened its first church on Fourth (now Park) Avenue between 127th and 128th Streets the following year. Several additions enlarged the church before fire destroyed it in 1871. The next year, the congregation broke ground on the same site for a new church designed by Henry M. Congdon (1834-1922). The Gothic-style building was completed in 1873. St. Andrew's grew along with Nieuw Haarlem, a village established in 1658 by Peter Stuyvesant and bounded by the Harlem River, Morningside heights, 110th Street, and 155th Street. Because of the congregation's steady growth and the noise and smoke of the railroad along Park Avenue, a larger building on a different site was deemed necessary for St. Andrew's. In 1888, the building firm of Mahoney and Watson was hired to dismantle the church, brick by brick, and to reassemble and enlarge it on its present site, the east side of Fifth Avenue between 127th and 128th Streets. The larger building, shown here, accommodated congregants from the "aristocratic apartment houses and the popular brownstones'" of the neighborhood, populated primary by Germans and Irish and graced by such amenities as Oscar Hammerstein's Harlem Opera House on West 125th Street.

Harlem Hospital, ca. 1907.

12 West 129th Street, ca. 1932. This building was erected in the late 19th century by William Paul and Thomas Wilson. The two men, carpenters and business partners, had purchased the lot late in 1862 to construct a two-and-a-half-story house that they initially addressed as "129th off Fifth." Since 1862, this house has seen numerous alterations. The Moorish-inspired porch was added in 1882-83 after John Simpson, the founder of the Estey Piano Company, and his family moved into the home. A full third story was added in 1896 when an order of Franciscan Sisters took over the property. The Sisters converted the home into a convent and reception home for poor children. According to the 1900 census, six sisters resided here; in 1903, one priest, four sisters, and eight servants were in residence; in 1920 there were nine sisters; and in 1925, there were five sisters and fifteen children between the ages of two and nine. In order to accommodate its new use, the Franciscan Sisters made many grand changes to the home—including enlarging the building itself. Now known as 12 West 129th Street, the home is a landmarked building and one of the last free-standing houses in Harlem.

Harlem native and former state judge Bruce Wright called the Harlem Hospital a "mother figure." The Harlem Hospital has provided healthcare for a majority of the area's residents for over a century. It's where a young Martin Luther King Jr. was saved from a near-fatal knife wound, which he referenced in his final public address, "I Have Been to the Mountaintop." Read on to learn the history of the Harlem Hospital.

New York Public Library, Harlem Branch. March 20, 1928. A Carnegie Library designed by the McKim, Mead & White firm, the Harlem Branch opened to the public in January 1909. It replaced an earlier Harlem Branch library which, according to the NYPL, had been in operation as early as 1826.

Also known as the Mount Morris Turkish Baths, June's Landmark Spotlight for NYC Pride Month is located at 28 East 125th Street. Built in 1889-90 by C. Abbott French & Co., the structure was designed as a blend of two popular styles at the time, neo-Grec and Queen Anne.

Pilgrim Pentecostal Church of God, 1936. In the 1930s the majority of African American churches in Harlem met in residences and storefronts. According to a study of the religious institutions in the neighborhood in 1930, 122 congregations met in spaces that were not churches or assembly halls, and the number of these homes and storefront churches was likely much higher. The Reverend of this Pentecostal Church was Elder Johnson, seen here descending the church steps. He presided over a flock of only 28 when this photograph was taken.

St. Andrew's Protestant Episcopal Church, ca. 1908. In 1829, St. Andrew’s became the first Episcopal parish in the Village of Harlem. After its first church on East 127th Street was destroyed in an 1871 fire, architect Henry M. Congdon designed a new Victorian Gothic structure as its replacement. In 1889, the Congregation elected to move to a new site at 127th Street and Fifth Avenue in order to better reflect the geographic distribution of its pewholders (in the 19th century, it was commonplace for churchgoers to rent their pews). Rather than build a new church, Congdon was enlisted to develop a plan for a new building incorporating elements of the current structure. Today’s church is Congdon’s relocated St. Andrews, with additional features added and adaptations made to suit the new site, including a 125-foot slate-clad clocktower.

Park & Tilford ca. 1908 By the time the Park and Tilford building was completed in 1907, architect B. Hustace Simonson had emerged as a leader in duplex apartment design. His fashionable reserve is well-represented here: Ionic pilasters on the upper floor correspond to the ground story's Ionic piers and engaged columns. Only the entrance to the offices has any decorative flourish-a flowery garland. Park and Tilford was one of New York's most prestigious purveyors of fine spirits, choice groceries, and tobacco. The rich of Harlem shopped here in the 1910s, and a teenage Henry Roth (later to become an acclaimed writer) worked as a delivery boy. Delivering groceries throughout the neighborhood, he observed that Harlem was a divided community: white gentiles shopped primarily on 125th Street, Jews on 116th Street, and African Americans on 135th Street. Roth appreciated all too well that there were many places where he, a Jew, was no more welcome than were black newcomers. Fearing the effects of the anticipated enactment of Prohibition and faced with an increasingly poor and black neighborhood, Park and Tilford closed its doors in 1919.

Ye Olde Barber Shop at 2193 Fifth Avenue in Harlem, 1939. These buildings were razed a few years later, ahead of the construction of the Lincoln Houses, a NYCHA development completed in December, 1948.

Originally constructed for the Baptist Church of the Redeemer, this freestanding Romanesque Revival style building is of great cultural importance to the city for its ties to the Civil Rights Movement of the 1950’s-60’s. After changing hands several times, it was sold in 1936 to the Friendship Baptist Church, founded by the Rev. Dr. John Iverson Mumford. From the beginning, the church supported Civil Rights. Its second pastor, Dr. Thomas Kilgore Jr., was an associate of the Rev. Dr. Martin Luther King Jr., who delivered a sermon here in 1955. Among Rev. Kilgore’s other local and national Civil Rights efforts, he led the church to found the House of Friendship Community Center, which, in 1963, became the National Headquarters for the March on Washington for Jobs and Freedom, organized by Bayard Rustin. The congregation, still active today, was deeply involved in organizing the Harlem community’s participation in that historic March. In addition to its social and political significance, 170 West 130th Street’s façade is architecturally significant as the work of Vertner Woodson Tandy, the first African-American architect registered in New York State. The House of Friendship Community Center is located in the Central Harlem West -- 130-132nd Street Historic District.

All Saints Roman Catholic Church Complex ARCHITECT: Architect: Renwick, Aspinwall & Russell DATE: Year Built: 1883-1893 STYLE: Italian Gothic Revival, Venetian Gothic Revival, Gothic Revival The Roman Catholic Church of All Saints, with its lively and animated design and exceptionally fine ornament, was created by one of New York’s leading nineteenth-century architects, James Renwick, Jr., of the firm of Renwick, Aspinwall and Russell. Among the many churches he designed during his long career, the Church of All Saints has been called his best. Constructed over the course of several years, the church (1883-93), parish house (1886-89) and school (1902-04) formed an important anchor for the rapidly expanding Harlem neighborhood when they were built, and continue that role today. Renwick, architect of the original Smithsonian building in Washington, designed many of New York City’s most beautiful and well-known churches, including Grace Church and St. Patrick’s Cathedral. The Church of All Saints is his most fully evolved Italian Gothic Revival style design, an unusual stylistic choice for a late nineteenth century church in New York. The building displayed the texture, shape and color variations that were so important during that period due to the influence of the writings of John Ruskin. The facades of All Saints combine the mixed tones of light and dark brick, terra cotta and stone, with an assortment of window shapes and sizes in a building which is both spirited and inspiring. The neighboring parish house displays elements of the Venetian Gothic Revival style, with its stone balconies pierced by pinwheeling designs, and its narrow windows topped by filled gothic arches. The school building, located north of the church along 130th Street and completed several years later by Renwick’s nephew, William W. Renwick, displays a simpler version of the Gothic Revival style, with plain brick wall surfaces juxtaposed with light-colored stone and areas of elaborate terra-cotta ornament.

Fire at 102 West 129th Street, May 5, 1925. A fire was discovered in the basement of No. 102 West 129th Street, at Lenox Avenue, in the early morning hours of Tuesday, May 5. All tenants were evacuated without serious injury.

My Archive Spring 2019 "My parents' wedding day in 1958." —Teri Graham