IRT POWERHOUSE, MANHATTAN Address: West 58th & 59th Streets, 11th & 12th Avenues Architect: Stanford White Constructed: 1904 Stanford White was able to design in 1904 what today seems like a minor miracle: a highly elegant and ornate utilitarian structure. It was all in a day’s work for White and other City Beautiful proponents who believed that public improvements should be built to create a city that is both functional and beautiful. This monumental structure is a remarkable example of Beaux-Arts design applied to a utilitarian building; its architectural grandeur meant to convince the public to embrace the subway, a major new mode of transportation in 1904. Designed as a showpiece, it now stands as a monument to progress and rapid transit. In addition to its architecture, the building holds an important place in industrial history. When it opened, it was the largest powerhouse in the world and provided the energy needed to run the first subway line along Manhattan’s west side, which in turn created and enabled the modern city of New York. Despite the unfortunate loss of its original smokestacks, the IRT Powerhouse remains a commanding presence and a dynamic anchor for an ever-changing west side. Occupying the entire block bounded by Eleventh and Twelve Avenues, West 58th and 59th Streets, the original powerhouse of the Interborough Rapid Transit Subway is the most monumental building associated with the subway system in New York City. This mammoth structure was the largest powerhouse in the world upon its completion in 1904, and it represented the highest level of technical sophistication in the production of electrical power at that time. From the powerhouse, current was generated and fed to eight substations to power the signal and lighting systems. In its role as company symbol, the building heralded a new era of electrified urban transportation, illustrating the power of technology to improve urban life. The IRT Powerhouse still stands as a monument to the engineers and architects who planned and built New York City's first successful underground transit system. The exterior of the powerhouse was designed by Stanford White of the prominent firm of McKim, Mead and White and is a rare example of utilitarian design by that firm. Executed in the Beaux-Arts style and drawing upon Renaissance prototypes, it is the embodiment of the aesthetic ideals of the civic-minded City Beautiful movement, spawned by World's Columbian Exposition of 1893 in Chicago, which held that public improvements could beautify American industrial cities. The structural design of the powerhouse was the responsibility of William C. Phelps, assistant engineer in charge of the Mechanical Department of the Subway Construction Company. Standing on a base of smooth ashlar granite, the building has symmetrically designed facades of buff-colored brick arranged in bays with two-story arched window openings that are decorated with terra-cotta moldings and keystones. The arcades are surmounted by an attic story with paired window openings framed by terra-cotta moldings and keystones. The six windows of the Eleventh Avenue facade are separated by brick pilasters with foliated terra-cotta rustication blocks and topped by terra-cotta wreaths. At the long north and south facades, pairs of rusticated brick pilasters separate the arched bays. Many of the windows retain their original multipane industrial sash. It is unclear whether any of the original six chimneys--which were erected on a steel substructure 76 feet about the basement floor of the powerhouse in order to maximize floor space--remain, and a new, much taller chimney has been added near the southeast corner. The original terra-cotta roof tiles and the upper cornice have also been removed.

Footrace at Hudsonbank gymnasium, 1898. Hudsonbank, the first outdoor public playground in New York City, was established by the Outdoor Recreation League in 1898, in order to encourage physical activity among the youthful residents of the city’s tenements. This photograph may document Hudsonbank’s opening exhibition, in August 1898. The Outdoor Recreation League was led by Charles Bunstein Stover, the eccentric founder of the Neighborhood Guild settlement house on the Lower East Side who later became Parks Commissioner. Stover, a former seminary student, was prone to unannounced disappearances. One such episode, a 39-day sojourn in 1913, prompted friends to produce a film reel with his likeness to be shown in theaters, in hopes of finding him. After rumored sightings across the country, he resigned his position as Commissioner and reappeared quietly in New York.

John Theurer Wagon Works, ca. 1913. A surviving piece of Hell’s Kitchen’s industrial heritage, the former Theurer building dates to about 1913, when a July edition of The Carriage Monthly announced: “John Theurer Wagon Works, Inc., announce that they have opened a new and modernly equipped plant for the manufacture and repair of wagons, trucks and commercial automobile bodies.”

In 1935, giants dominated the west side of Manhattan, lined up one after another on the Hudson River piers. From around the world, these ocean liners ferried passengers back and forth to New York.

"Tenth Ave., west side, north from West 58th to 59th Streets, showing occupying this block front, the Haaren High School. This structure formerly housed De Witt Clinton High School, 1937." The ornate building on Tenth Avenue was built by C.B.J Snyder, the BOE Superintendent of Buildings, in 1906. It originally housed DeWitt Clinton High School, which had previously been located in Greenwich Village. The H- shaped school (a Snyder design innovation) was built in the Flemish Renaissance style, with large gables, dormers, high-pitched roofs, and red brick trimmed with limestone. DeWitt Clinton High School moved to the Bronx in 1929 and the building then became Haaren High School, a vocational institution, which lasted through the 1970s. The building underwent a renovation in 1998 which converted the courtyard into a glass atrium. Today it is Haaren Hall on the campus of John Jay College.

IRT Powerhouse, date unknown. Stanford White’s monumental Renaissance Revival structure directly embraces the City Beautiful philosophy, then in vogue among urban planners; its imposing grandeur and ornate detailing inspire viewers while the building itself serves a larger functional purpose: powering the New York City subway. The building was acquired by Consolidated Edison in 1959, after the subway system had adopted new power sources.

Phipps Houses, May 28, 1944. Henry Phipps was a steel magnate and the partner of Andrew Carnegie in the Carnegie Company. In 1901 he sold his holdings in the firm to J. P. Morgan for more than $50 million. With these funds, he built himself a couple of homes in New York, one more splendid than the last. But he also used this money to establish a fund for the creation of model tenements to be called the Phipps Houses. These tenements (four six-story buildings) on 63rd Street were the second project to utilize the fund. Completed in 1906 or 1907 the apartments were rented to African Americans, who suffered increasingly from housing discrimination. The look of these plainly designed buildings (the work of architects Whitfield & King) differed from the earlier Phipps Houses on 31st Street, which had varied brickwork, overhanging tile roofs, and elaborate central roof pergolas. The Phipps Houses organization still exists, but their earliest project, including this still extant one, were sold off to finance other developments in the mid century.

Canada Dry Building, 1940. The charming Joe-Harry Diner is dwarfed by Canada Dry's plant in this image of pre-war industrial Manhattan. The Canada Dry Company began in Toronto, Ontario, in 1890. Its product-Pale Dry Ginger Ale- was first shipped to New York in 1919, and two year later, the first Canada Dry plant in the United States opened on West 38th Street. In 1930, ten years prior to Bryon's photograph of its 12th Avenue and West 55th Street facility, Canada Dry introduced tonic water, club soda, and collins mix.

The Outdoor Recreation League was founded in 1898 to provide for "proper and sufficient exercise and recreation places, playgrounds, and open air gymnasiums for the people." Byron captured the success of the Hudson-Bank Gymnasium, located within the new DeWitt Clinton Park between 11th and 12th Avenues and 52nd and 54th Streets, during its inaugural year in several photographs that document constructive play and exercise in this notoriously dangerous Hell's Kitchen neighborhood.

Sheffield Farms plant, 1938. Sheffield Farms was a milk company that in the first half of the 20th century became one of the largest dairy companies in the world. They also sold 20% of all of the milk purchased within New York City. Sheffield was established over a few years in the 1880s, as L. B. Halsey got involved in his wife's family butter business and then expanded it a larger scale dairy trade. In 1939 the company erected a plant on the West Side, consisting of a large three story (plus massive basement and sub-basement) plant and a six-story office building. By 1952 the operations at the plant were diminishing as the company moved their processing elsewhere. After a double sale, the complex was purchased by the television network CBS for its broadcast center, which remains in the space today.