Union League Club, ca. 1885. The Union League was an off-shoot of the Union Club, one of New York's oldest and most prestigious social clubs. The Union League was founded by supporters of the Union side during the Civil War. Its original building was in Manhattan on 26th Street, but chapters soon opened in a number of eastern cities. The Brooklyn chapter was founded in 1887 and in 1891 it moved into a brand new Romanesque Revival building on Dean and Bedford Streets. The red brick and brownstone building was imposing with large arched entranceways and a tall tower at the corner (which has since been removed). The large equestrian statue of President Grant that sits across the street from the entrance was commissioned and erected by the League.

Studebaker Building ARCHITECT: Tooker & Marsh DATE: 1920 STYLE: Neo-Gothic Built in 1920, the Studebaker Building is one of the few automobile showrooms remaining on Brooklyn’s once thriving Automobile Row, the stretch of Bedford Avenue running north and south from Fulton Street to Empire Boulevard in Crown Heights. Designed by New York-based architects Tooker and Marsh, the neo-Gothic style building is brick, clad in white terra cotta manufactured by the Atlantic Terra Cotta Works. An excellent example of a commercial terra-cotta clad structure which served as a company icon, the Studebaker Building retains the original terra-cotta design inscribed with the name “Studebaker” in black cursive on a diagonal banner across the wheel emblem, an image that was used by the corporation on buildings throughout the United States.

1200 Dean Street (Arthur Bates Jennings, c. 1897; expansion: Dodge & Morrison with Kenneth M. Murchison, 1906) – NYC HD, NR-D This Romanesque Revival style church was completed in two phases about 10 years apart by different architects. The northern section facing Dean Street is the original building, while that facing Nostrand Avenue was added later. The church dominates the intersection with its romantic massing, including gables, conical and pyramidal turrets, and a campanile bell tower, as well as decorative features like round arches with rough-faced stone lintels, leaded glass windows, and slate tile roof. The church retains the neighborhood’s original name, Bedford.

Loehmann's Department store was founded in this corner building in 1921 by Frieda Loehmann and her son. Frieda's business plan was to buy overstocks, samples, and discontinued products from top New York designers and sell them at affordable prices; she became known as the Grand Dame of Cut-Rate Fashion (long before Marshalls and T.J.Maxx). She would eventually buy this building and live upstairs. Though only one other Loehmann's opened during her lifetime (in the Bronx on Fordham Road). Following the founder's death in 1963, the store here on Bedford closed, but Charles Loehmann went public with the company and expanded nationwide. The company was bought and sold numerous times through the 1980s and at its peak around the turn of the 21st century, there were more than 100 stores in 17 states. The new century saw a number of bankruptcies before all the brick-and-mortar stores finally closed in 2014. For some time after Loehmann's closed at no. 1476, a similar store that used items purchased from Loehmann's closing auction, set up shop. In 1976 the building was sold to New Life Tabernacle Church of God in Christ, which it remains today.

Sterling Place, west from Franklin Avenue, showing the north side of the street, 1941.

Hebron French Speaking Seventh Day Adventist Church 100 New York Avenue (Henry Ives Cobb, 1909-10) This striking church is the area’s only example of neo-Byzantine style architecture. It features unusual massing, an octagonal sanctuary, a pyramidal roof, round arch openings, identical entrance pavilions on New York Avenue connected by a curving, blind arcade, and intricate stained glass with floral and figural motifs. Originally constructed for the First Church of Christ Scientist, it was designed by noted Chicago architect Henry Ives Cobb, who was famous for his design of the Fisheries Building at the World’s Columbian Exposition in 1893.

The Soviet Private School was for children of Soviet citizens sent to the United States. According to the Brooklyn Daily Eagle the building "no longer exists, but no further information is available."

Brooklyn Training School for Teachers, ca. 1930. Rendered in a Collegiate Renaissance Revival style, the Brooklyn Training School for Teachers was both a training school for aspiring teachers and the school in which their training was put into practice. This progressive model offered free education with theoretical and real classroom experience to a generation of adults, the children of immigrants, looking to make their way in the city. The building was completed between 1902 and 1907 as the population of New York, and as such, the number of students in its public schools, was booming. The training school model was discontinued in the early 1930s as the success of the program and the Depression resulted in an excess of qualified but out-of-work teachers. The building became a regular public grammar school called P.S. 138.

Union United Methodist Church, School and Parsonage 121 New York Avenue Designed by Josiah C. Cady & Co., 1889-91 This monumental building was originally constructed for the New York Avenue Methodist Episcopal Church. Its Romanesque Revival style design was the work of Josiah Cady, who was known for his use of the style, especially for churches, but which he also famously employed for the south wing of the American Museum of Natural History. The red brick and sandstone church does not feature a lot of ornament, but its solid and complex massing, arched openings, and detailed brickwork are masterfully arranged. Its tower was intended to have a pyramidal roof, but was never completed. The tower was designed with an elaborate air ventilation system, whereby fresh air was drawn through pipes and ducts to cool the building in the summer and warm air from the furnace was funneled upward to warm the building in the winter. The basement once contained a bowling alley. The Union United Methodist Church, School and Parsonage are located in the Crown Heights North Historic District and the State and National Register of Historic Places Crown Heights North Historic District.

The Kings County Savings Bank, date unknown. Designed by Halsey, McCormack & Helmer, the architectural firm that was responsible for the Williamsburg Savings Bank tower at Hanson Place, this Art Deco building was completed in 1930. The facade features sculptural figures of lions, a dog and a number of human representations of scientists, scholars, and inventors. Once the home of the Kings County Savings Bank, it now houses the Banco Popular.

Former Union League Club, General Grant Statue 19 Grant Square Designed by Peter J. Lauritzen, 1890 William Ordway Partridge, 1896 This handsome Romanesque Revival style building was constructed as a social club for the Union League, established in 1863 by Union supporters and members of Brooklyn’s Republican Party. The Grant Square façade abounds in Union iconography, most significantly in the brownstone busts of Abraham Lincoln and Ulysses S. Grant above the entrance arches and a grand eagle supporting the second floor bay window. The building’s rich terra cotta trim includes a plethora of Byzantine leaf, popular in the 1880s and 1890s. The structure’s roofline suffered major alterations in the 1970s, including the removal of Spanish tiles, a turreted observation tower, and a gabled roof with a large dormer. In the early 20th century, after the boroughs were consolidated, the club merged with the Manhattan branch. In 1914, the building became home to a Jewish organization called the Unity Club until 1943, and was subsequently converted to a Yeshiva. The building currently houses the Bhraggs Grant Square Senior Citizens’ Center. The Union League Club commissioned the bronze statue of Grant that sits within the adjacent square, and donated it to the city in 1896, when it was unveiled on Grant’s birthday. The Former Union League Club of Brooklyn and General Grant statue are located within the Crown Heights North Historic District and State and National Register of Historic Places Crown Heights North Historic District.

Park Place adjoining northeast corner of Franklin Ave, 1941.

Described in the Crown Heights North Historic District designation report as “among Brooklyn’s most architecturally distinguished areas” and a “showcase for the work of architects who played an important role in Brooklyn’s development”, the neighborhood as a feast for the eyes. Its magnificent and varied residential architecture is peppered with grand religious and institutional buildings, and anchored by the picturesque Brower Park. The neighborhood’s northern and southern boundaries are Atlantic Avenue and Eastern Parkway, but its western and eastern boundaries are up for debate, though many consider them to be Washington Avenue and Ralph Avenue, respectively. The area’s three historic districts were designated between 2007 and 2015, and this story highlights some of the treasures found within and nearby those districts. The neighborhood’s transition from farmland to suburban enclave began in 1854 with the auction of land parcels by the area’s principal landowner, the Lefferts family. At that time, this area was known as the village of Bedford, a name it retained for some time. The area’s epic transformation over the ensuing half century was enabled by a series of major transportation improvements. The first was the introduction of stagecoach and horsecar service between Fulton Ferry and Bedford, which inspired the construction of freestanding villas on the Lefferts parcels. With the announcement of the new Brooklyn Bridge, to be completed in 1883, speculative rowhouse construction began as early as the 1870s, but dramatically increased after the Kings County Elevated Railway was completed along Fulton Street in 1888. It is this latter wave of development that most strongly characterizes the neighborhood’s architectural significance today. When the subway reached the area in 1920, apartment building construction increased to accommodate a growing commuter population. Around 1890, the area north of Sterling Place became known as the “St. Marks District”, but the moniker was short-lived, as many of the wealthy residents of St. Marks Avenue had moved away and their mansions demolished by 1920. Grant Square was also one of the most prestigious sections of Brooklyn at the turn of the century, second only to Grand Army Plaza in importance due to the prominent institutions on its borders, including the Union League Club, St. Bartholomew’s Church, and the 23rd Regiment Armory. The name “Crown Heights” was used starting around 1910 to describe the area south of Eastern Parkway. The area north of the parkway was called “Bedford” well into the 20th century, since the area was considered part of Bedford-Stuyvesant. However, “Crown Heights” gained traction with its white population in the mid-20th century as a way to differentiate itself from Bedford-Stuyvesant, which many began to consider a black ghetto. While historians often refer to Crown Heights “North” and “South” due to their demographic, architectural, topographical, and historical differences, most do not make this distinction even today. During its boom years, the population of Crown Heights North was of mainly European descent. By the mid-20th century, African- and Caribbean-Americans began to make up a significant portion of the population due to the 1936 opening of the Independent (IND) subway line, which provided direct access from Harlem, the center of the city’s black population. By the 1960s, Crown Heights had the largest Caribbean-American population in the city, and by the 1990s, was known as a major Caribbean-American hub in the entire country. Today, the neighborhood is changing yet again, with populations shifting as a result of rising rents throughout the city.

(church and rectory: George P. Chappell, 1886-90 parish house: Montrose Morris Sons, 1921) – church: NYC IL church and rectory: Set back from Pacific Street by a low fence, wrought iron gate a front yard, St. Bartholomew’s Church was designed in the Arts and Crafts style and features a roundarched stained glass window designed by Tiffany Studios in 1930, making it one of the studio’s last commissions, and a large square tower and belfry. The church played a significant role as one of the venerable institutions near Grant Square catering to the area’s Episcopal population. While the church itself is an individual landmark, neither the rectory to the east nor the parish house to the west are designated. The rectory is believed to have been constructed at the same time by the same architect, while the neo-Gothic parish house was added in 1921.

Grant Square from Bergen Street, ca. 1925. The Union League Club and its statue of Ulysses S. Grant can be seen at right and center, respectively.

Located along the hilly terminal moraine between the prosperous communities of Bedford and Flatbush, Crown Heights South was considered a rocky no-man’s land of scrub farmland for most of the 19th century. During that time, it was home to subsistence farmers whose homes dotted the landscape, as well as poor Irish and black families who settled in shantytowns called “Crow Hill” and “Pigtown” by a derisive press. In 1846, this was where the city of Brooklyn placed the Kings County Penitentiary, as far from downtown Brooklyn as was feasible. By 1874, Frederick Law Olmsted and Calvert Vaux had completed Eastern Parkway as a Parisian-style boulevard to extend the picturesque character of Prospect Park into the expanding residential neighborhoods of Brooklyn. The parkway, which followed the moraine through the neighborhood that was now called Crown Heights, was designed to be lined with fine homes and mansions, though this housing never developed as Olmsted and Vaux envisioned. The thoroughfare did bring attention to the neighborhood, though, and formed the border between Crown Heights North and Crown Heights South in later years. While the northern side of Crown Heights was fully built up by 1900, it wasn’t until after the new century began that large-scale residential development began in southern Crown Heights. The north-south corridors of Nostrand, Bedford, Rogers and Franklin Avenues were already important transportation corridors, leading to the paving of Union, President, Carroll and other cross streets. Several major changes led to the development of Crown Heights South after the turn of the 20th century. These included the 1907 demolition of the infamous Kings County Penitentiary, which was replaced by a Jesuit Prep school and college; the 1913 construction of Ebbets Field, home to the Brooklyn Dodgers baseball team; the development of Brooklyn’s famous Automobile Row, with its showrooms and service centers, which flourished on Bedford Avenue between 1905 and 1945; and the presence of the nearby Brooklyn Museum, which opened in 1897. Encouraged by these developments, as well as the new subways constructed under Eastern Parkway, developers built up entire blocks at a time with new housing. With the exception of certain blocks of single-family mansions, much of what was built was designed for multiple families, as the age of the single-family rowhouse had nearly passed. Crown Heights South displays a fine array of architectural styles of the early 20th century, designed by such prominent Brooklyn architects as Montrose W. Morris, Axel Hedman, J. L. Brush, Arthur Koch and Slee & Bryson in the Revival styles popular at the time: Renaissance, Colonial, Flemish, Tudor and more. Today, the neighborhood retains its vibrant mix of residential architecture, including attached rowhouses, detached mansions and grand apartment buildings, as well as some fine religious buildings and grand institutions. One of its most well-known structures is the Bedford Armory, the city’s first mounted cavalry-unit armory that occupies an entire city block. The armory’s future is a source of controversy, with developers seeking to construct housing on the site and community members vying to preserve the building. Unfortunately, none of Crown Heights South’s architectural gems have been designated as landmarks by the New York City Landmarks Preservation Commission. Local advocates, including the Crown Heights South Association, formed in 2016, are working to survey and advocate for the neighborhood to ensure that any future changes are sensitive to its rich past.

The Evangelical Lutheran Church of the Epiphany (now Lutheran Church of the Epiphany) was founded in 1908. The building has an exterior of stone and was designed in the Gothic style. The present structure was built in 1925. It includes a gymnasium, kitchen, 800-seat auditorium, Sunday school, parsonage and sexton's quarters.

802 Park Place, 1925. According to the photographer's notes this small wood-frame structure is the gardener's cottage for the home of George B. Fisk. Fisk was president of the Long Island Rail Road from 1839 to 1847. He presumably had a large home, which by 1925 was no longer standing, somewhere in the vicinity of this cottage.